alternative way to install a lintel

I have a rough idea of how to install a lintel on an existing wall (to make a new opening) using strong boys and needles. I don't have such tools and thinking of adopting another method:

1) use a angle grinder to cut out some mortar (about 60%) where the lintel is going to be installed 2 install one of those Catnic steel lintel "L" shaped or similar....the lintel won't seats completely as the old mortar is still on place but it should work fine. 3) take out the bricks to create new opening 4) finish job by installing a proper lintel just under the L shaped one (making sure the top row of bricks is wider than the opening in order to accomodate the new lintel). The L shaped one can then be removed (useful for the next installation).

For most jobs point 4 would not be necessary. Furthermore, if access to the other side of the opening is not an issue it would be possible to install another L shaped lintel on the other side for extra security.

How does it sound? Isn't that neater than using Strong Boys and Needles? Constructive criticism welcomed.

Reply to
swimmydeepo
Loading thread data ...

Strong boys and needles are effectively the same thing. With either you need acrows or similar. You'd normally hire rather than buy. The advantage of a strongboy is it works from one side only - with a needle you need props either side of the wall.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

In article , swimmydeepo writes

I think the weakness will be how you maintain support of the structure whilst allowing access to pack in mortar between the new lintel and the supported brickwork.

With needles you have wide access and with strongboys you have broad alternating points of support that can be filled and released when the mortar has set.

Maybe have a think about how would you maintain partial support with the angle while giving access to provide a reliable support with mortar when the angle is removed.

Reply to
fred

May be quicker to just use some timber a row of bricks up. Put a horizontail rail on, suported at the ends either on its own uprights or by attaching to supported brickwork. Nail into mortar joints to provide brick support, bearing in mind brickwork is to a fair degree self supporting if the bottom row is kept in place. As long as its just the usual domestic small triangle of brickwork to support. If its something grander & larger I'd be a lot more thorough. A lot of builders out there just do it with no support - not recommended really.

NT

Reply to
NT

As others have said, you usually hire these.

How thick is the wall: if half brick (100mm), then I would want to prop anything bigger than a single door opening. If it's a solid one brick wall (215mm) then one option is to use twin beams: cut away on one side, insert one beam, pin up and allow packing to set, then do the other side.

Reply to
Tony Bryer

Just a few points... the wall is actually a chimney breast which is going to be modified to regain some space. In particular, the overall structure remains intact with only an aperture in the front to accomodate e.g. a TV/media unit or a cupboard....so I'm dealing with a single leaf of bricks. The supporting issue doesn't seems to pose a problem...basically I'm racking out some mortar - similar to a repointing job just a bit deeper (let's say 60% maybe more) and installing a L shaped lintel - this so far seems to be a fairly safe and simple job. The opening should be around 1.5-1.8 m wide, so the lintel is going to be around 2m maximum. The main issue is whether it is safe to leave the lintel in place as it isn't completely in place or installing a proper one underneath (e.g. a squared shaped one) .

Reply to
swimmydeepo

================================================

I think you'll need the temporary lintel to be at least 12" (6" + 6") longer than the permanent one. Try a drawing to see what I mean - if I'm correct.If you go ahead wedge the temporary lintel in its highest position

- i.e. tight against the bricks above it.

Cic.

Reply to
Cicero

Don't people do this using two "U" shaped lbeams bolted together back to back to make an H? You dig out the brickwork through half the thickness of the wall and insert the first U, pack and cement it in so it takes the weight. then you dig out the bricks theother side and insert the other one and bolt them together then pack and cement in.

Robert

Reply to
RobertL

Just a little note.. some chimney breasts carry far more load than the brickwork above them. like there may be concrete liners and other stuff to support. One I saw had a thick concrete slab resting on it and a double walled concrete chimney on top of that. You have checked?

Reply to
dennis

RobertL says: "You dig out the brickwork through half the thickness of the wall and insert the first U"?? It seems to me you are considering a double leaf wall...anyhow, how are the bricks above kept from falling down? Using Strongboys? (something I wasn't considering using in the first place). Maybe I'm missing your point here or I'm being overcautious...basically I want to play safe...racking some mortar sounds pretty safe to me.

Reply to
swimmydeepo

I get your point... I've just removed the chimney stack and about to cover the hole with new felt and slates. I'm checking the structure as I go from the top. There are two flues (one for the ground floor the other for the first floor). The concrete slab (is that the one called earth?) rests on some joists and on the chimney breast...I'm thinking of having it removed. The chimney breast on the ground floor take so much space it is well worth getting rid of it completely, but I'll have a proper check first.

Reply to
swimmydeepo

No, this was for for a solid(200mm) wall. It's what my engineer specified, but when the builders actually did it they used acrow props both sides and took all the bricks out in one go.

Playing safe is a good idea!

Robert

Reply to
RobertL

HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.