Alarm

[sid]

I would go for dual tech. Say around £35/£40 each. Also fit as few PIR's/detectors as possible - only leads to false alarms.

Best to use contacts for the home - cheap, simple to fit, reliable and can be concealed in door frames/window frames.

Door contact for initial entry/final exit door. Remote keypad in hall Dual tech in the hallway not activated by initial entry and contacts on downstairs doors/windows.Remote keypad on upstairs landing (if house)

Sorted

[Andrew Gabriel]

I fitted quite a lot of dual-techs. If only one of them alarms, I'm then pretty sure it's false, as it would be most unlikely a real intruder would trigger only one. This principle applies to many detector types, but you'll need a panel which can separately identify many different detectors (either lots of zones, or ability to separately identify multiple detectors per zone), and has the intelligence to wait for multiple triggers before letting loose with the bells (it's a requirement for any new system capable of having police response nowadays).

I've used a number of makes of dual tech and found them all very reliable except the Focus ones, which were all so bad (generating tamper alarms thinking they've been masked), that the supplier took them all back and refunded me. The others vary in their range and coverage patterns, and ability/ease to configure.

Window contacts are good for reminding you there's still a window open when you try to set the alarm, but I wouldn't seriously expect them to detect an intruder.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

I've got them on all windows and doors. Hard work to fit them neatly so they don't show, but they've been ultra reliable. Not much to go wrong with a reed switch. And if correctly fitted, no chance of a false alarm. Also act as a check if anything's been left open.

Got dual PIRs too, though. And pressure pads. ;-)

[Dave Plowman (News)]

I'm not so sure. All the break ins round here seem to involve forcing either a door or window. A casual thief isn't going to want to crawl through broken glass etc, and it's not possible to secure an old fashioned sash window so it can't be forced - given the will.

Might well be a different matter if you live in a remote country house with lots of valuables, but most break ins in towns are done by 'amateurs'.

[Owain]

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote | > Concealed door contacts are very useful as final exit/initial | > entry. Still used for proper pro work. | I've got them on all windows and doors. Hard work to fit them | neatly so they don't show, but they've been ultra reliable. | Not much to go wrong with a reed switch. And if correctly | fitted, no chance of a false alarm. | Also act as a check if anything's been left open.

I also like the fact that if a window/door is being opened/forced, switches trigger the alarm before Smashie and Thievie actually get themselves inside the house.

Owain

[Owain]

"Dave Plowman (News)" | Andrew Gabriel wrote: | > Window contacts are good for reminding you there's still a | > window open when you try to set the alarm, but I wouldn't | > seriously expect them to detect an intruder. | I'm not so sure. All the break ins round here seem to involve | forcing either a door or window. A casual thief isn't going | to want to crawl through broken glass etc,

Also the first thing many thieves do is to open a door or window to give themselves an exit route.

Owain

[Christian McArdle]

Yes. If the alarm goes before their leg is inside the house, they'll probably do a runner. If they've got inside and have got their fingers on your laptop or car keys before the alarm goes, they're hardly going to drop them on their way out.

Christian.