AEG washing macine - drum bearing change

[Part timer]

It's DIY since I'm doing it myself:

Got a well-used AEG LAVAMAT 50630-W PNC 914 002 185 00 (1100/600rpm spin) dating from 2001. Last couple of weeks the drum has become less smooth during spinning. Removed rear cover and tell-tale rusty water deposits were all over from leak behind the main pulley mounting. Read up in Haynes Washing Machine Manual that the symptoms indicate main drum bearing seal failure. The outer (plastic) tub is in 2 halves, I need the rear half out to do the work. Front (separated the door seal) and top have been removed to gain access with an 8mm spanner to remove the screws holding the tub halves together. Just need to obtain a LONG 8mm T-handle spanner to get the last 2 screws out as no amount of conventional spanner shuffling will do! Any recommendations? Seen a Draper one on the 'Net. Any further tips and guidance from anyone who has done similar before? FWIW the bearing kit costs

[meow2222]

These jobs can be a hell of a pita, labour value far outweighing the cost of bearings.

I'd suggest getting original manufaturer bearings or others that you know are of good quality, as the more competitive ones may turn out not to last well, and be a false economy.

You may need to make a press to get bearings in and out.

NT

[Simon Stroud]

Got a well-used AEG LAVAMAT 50630-W PNC 914 002 185 00 (1100/600rpm spin) dating from 2001. Last couple of weeks the drum has become less smooth during spinning. Removed rear cover and tell-tale rusty water deposits were all over from leak behind the main pulley mounting. Read up in Haynes Washing Machine Manual that the symptoms indicate main drum bearing seal failure. The outer (plastic) tub is in 2 halves, I need the rear half out to do the work. Front (separated the door seal) and top have been removed to gain access with an 8mm spanner to remove the screws holding the tub halves together. Just need to obtain a LONG 8mm T-handle spanner to get the last 2 screws out as no amount of conventional spanner shuffling will do! Any recommendations? Seen a Draper one on the 'Net. Any further tips and guidance from anyone who has done similar before? FWIW the bearing kit costs

[Pete C]

Hi,

If you have a grinder I'd just grind a square stub on a length of studding, then use 2 nuts locked on the other end to turn it.

cheers, Pete.

[Part timer]

OK, it's all in bits now, bearings removed - just need to obtain the correct replacements. Had the inner drum and rear outer tub out in the garden with an old toothbrush and hose to get the gunk off (wasn't as bad as I'd imagined, even though the water is v.hard. It's had liquid instead of washing powder for most of the time, so maybe that helps). Jacked the rear tub on wood and knocked out the old ball bearing races with a hammer and cold chisel. Took a fair few whacks! The faces built into the tub look fine (thankfully!) Meow2: I agree that it's a PITA. I'd quote anyone else at least a grand, if only for the lost newspapers and TV time! Will try to get the best bearings possible before reassembly. That should be easier as I know how it all goes from making notes. Simon Stroud: Got the heater element out eventually - you were right about the front end support. Not too much limescale to chip off. Pete C: I do have a grinder and I know the old "2 nuts trick". I think you were refering to using an 8mm socket on the end? I only had 1/2" drive down to 10mm so I went to Halfrauds and got a nasty flexi- screwdriver with interchangable tips (one being an 8mm nut spinner socket). This worked on the screwdriver handle I already owned with an extension piece. The set is going back for refund when I get the time as the quality is dire. Sale of Goods Act etc.

J

[Pete C]

Hi,

What I had in mind was grinding a 1/4" square drive on the end of a length of studding then putting an 8mm socket on it, but easier and better if you have the tools that can do it.

cheers, Pete.

[meow2222]

Sounds like you've had an easy ride. On mine I had to make a press to extract the rear bearings, and there was simply no tool that could get the front ones out, thanks to the wacky design. The only option was to die grind through the entire bearing races with a die grinder, which took ages. Putting it back wasnt so hard though.

NT

[Part timer]

Almost there now! The 50/50 outer tub has 17 awkward screws back in and is back on the suspension mounts. Got the new bearings in with blood (a tool slipped :-( ), sweat and tears, after bagging them up and getting them to contract in the deep freeze. The drum feels a bit stiff and "rubbery" with the new rubber seal in (but I'm pretty sure it's in right). I went round the electrical stores this afternoon giving a couple of display machines a spin by hand and they felt more willing to spin. I'm wondering if they spin the drums up to speed on a test rig in the factory (no water involved) which loosens them up? I just need to put the motor back in, attach the belt, cable tie the wiring loom back out of the way, sort the door seal join with the front panel, put other panels back on and double check my work.

J

[meow2222]

Drum should spin freely, while the belt is off.

NT

[Part timer]

It does now! I gave the back of the drum an extra thump from inside then set it on a wash to spew out the loosened muck. Still got the rear and top off to observe over the next week or so but no drips from the join of the tubs or from behind the pulley. The brushes were looking like they're good for a couple of months but not much longer. Hard to do with the motor out and on a bench?

J.

[meow2222]

So far so good. Brushes are usually an easy job without getting the motor out. Each brush assy should slid out and the new one slid in. There will be a tab on each that needs to be bent to release the brush springs. A bit more eyeball should make it clear hopefully.

NT