Not due for delivery for another week so trying to anticpate problems in advance. In the link to image I have one wall that is approx 1 cm out (I hope the diagram is self explanitory) . To this wall I have to attach the trim that the shower board will fit in to. Should I `shim` out the trim or cut the board to the curvature, I reckon I have maybe 3 mm to play with.
1st time I have worked with shower board so not sure what to do.
Don't quite follow, are you just fitting one shower board or do you have two or three to make an enclosure? Generally, I would be trying to make the enclosure "square" to fit the tray and vertical in each plane, so shimming to any irregular walls. But if you are fitting just one board perpendicular to an irregular wall which is already tiled (say) then I would probably scribe and cut the board to fit the wall (sealing with silicone).
I am fitting 2 boards (at 90%) to make an enclosure. The wall I am fitting to is ply so not tiled (was previously tiled but tiles removed). The ply was previously fitted so I dont really want to rip that out, I am just trying to find the best way to line up the shower board.
As I see it at this stage the best option would be to get the trim plumb (with shims ?) and pad out the shower board with the adhesive. I am guessing at this stage as never done before.
OK, you either need to fit the new board to the old, or shim the trim. I'm not sure what sort of trim you are using. Some of the extruded aluminium trim sold for Mermaid and other similar melamine faced plywood gives getting on for a centimetre of adjustment. In your drawing, you have a nasty looking "kink" and you might not get some sorts of trim to follow that nicely (incidentally the link seems to have stopped working). If you set the trim vertical, then you have a gap of getting on for a centimetre to fill, it is not easy to do this neatly with silicone or other flexible filler. You might be able to do it neatly with car body filler, but "plaster" type fillers are likely to crack. If it is in a shower, you *really* don't want to have gaps which water can go through.
But since you now have untiled ply, I assume you are not in a shower or over-bath area.
When you say shower board, do you mean Aquapanel (the fibre/cement board which needs skimming or tiling) or something like Mermaid, a waterproof plywood panel with one decorative melamine facing, and another non-decorative but waterproof face.
How are you planning to finish the existing plywood? One thing you might do is to cut a shaped fillet of (say) 18 mm ply that fits tight to the "wall" but presents a vertical surface on to which you can fit the trim which supports the shower panel.
Link still works this end.
Yes It is multipanel high gloss finish so no tiling or skimming.
The exising ply on the wall is only at the shower area the rest of the walls have been tiled on to plaster board, so the panel would attach to the original existing ply.
That sounds like the untreated plywood is *inside* the shower.
Or is it like this, where p = plywood, t = tiles, n = new panel
ppppppppttttttttt n n Shower n Area n
The previous original ply was already in the `old` shower enclosure area and was previously tiled. Image link below.
I'd be inclined to *adjust* the plaster. It doesn't have to be very tidy. If you batten, the existing and planned tiling won't line up with the shower board.
I used a sharpened mini garden hoe on mine:-)
It may not need to line up 100% as the shower enclosure would probably hide any issues with that (hoping)
There is no plaster on the walls the white colouration on the ply is the colour from the previous tile adhesive that has been taken off (I soaked and scraped it off).
Would it be possible therefore to use say one coat plaster to even up the wall, would this adhere to ply and then be sufficient to adhere the shower board to that.
I would be inclined to set the showerboard square and vertical. That means variable spacing to the ply. I certainly would not plaster the ply but I wonder if you could do the equivalent of "dot and dab" either with gripfill, no more nails, or similar (if the gaps are small enough) or expanding polyurethane foam if they are greater than 10 mm or so.
Ideally, define a few fixed points (screws into the plywood?) so that the showerboard is in the right place when contacting them, then splurge bits of gripfill (a tablespoonful?) at ~ 9 inch spacings over the plywood, and press and hold the showerboard into place.
I assume you are using an extrusion in the corner to join the two bits of showerboard, I would be inclined to assemble the two bits together and do the fitting of the two bits in one go.
I have bought a package which comes with the extrusion trim and the manufacturers `no nails` Taking your suggestion I am thinking of maybe using some 9mm ply (and or thinner), use hole cutters say 50mm and in the appropriate places fix to the ply, I could fix a couple of dozen where appropriate, this would give me the vertical orientation for the board plus a level to take the `no nails` to.
The picture link shows the gap, it is the top 46 cms where it `bends` out away from plumb.
I will do some test runs before fixing in any case.
IME plaster mixed with generous dollops of pva and shoved down the back any old how will work well if the panels are rigid.
And car body filler will work whether they are rigid or no!
Many's a ripped out hole I have made into a rock solid fixing point with Halfords Finest.
No more nails, no more welding, no more glue, no more anything. If it wasn't too expensive i'd mould a whole house out of car body filler.
Amen to all that. I still find plenty of uses for it, though it tends to be the Toolstation version (Profil). I used to buy the 3.5 kg tin for a tenner. At least double that now with understandably hefty delivery charges. I bet TMH still isn't a fan!
I think this is one of the cheapest around (and it works fine)
the 'lightweight' filler doesn't have the strength of the real stuff or indeed the 'liquid metal' metal loaded polyesters.
Holts P38 (well Its Davids Isopon P38 now).
No DIYer should be without it., Take it apart with the angle grinder, put it back with P38...;-)
Thanks. That looks good. Similar to the Bondaglas product I used to buy
Actually that's my only criticism of the Toolstation product, it's as hard as nails. IME the "light" versions are easier to use and the microspheres are better for use on wood
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