Any suggestions please?
I want to change a utility room door so that it opens outwards to give more
space in the room, so I want to take the existing door frame/lining out and
turn it around or replace with a new frame.
The utility is part of a flat roof extension attached to the main building
and the builders have laid one or two courses of bricks between the
on a bed of mortar directly onto the door frame (there seems to be no
lintel). There is only about 6 inches from the top of the door frame to the
Any suggestions please on how I can get the frame out and back in the other
way round without the course of brickwork collapsing and without damaging
the wall tiles above the door in the utility?
Aren't the pieces of timber which provides the rebate against
which the door closes simply strips fastened onto the main door
frame members? If so, you just need to prise them off,
reposition offset to suit the new door position, cut new hinge
recesses and fill the old ones.
Chris J Dixon Nottingham UK
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Saturday, February 14, 2004 4:09 PM
Subject: Re: Advice on changing utility door to outward opening
Not as easy as that I'm afraid. The rebate for the door is machined into
the single pieces of timber which for both sides & the top,
I can't see an alternative to the drastic solution option - hence the
approach to uk.d-i-y for suggestions :-(
How wide is the door? If it is a standard width door (i.e. 76cm), then you
could buy a door the size below (i.e. 69cm), prise off the architrave and
add a new door frame to the new smaller dimensions inside the existing
frame. The top rail might be slightly more difficult to adjust, but might be
solved by putting in a block of wood (see diagram below) and trimming the
door, losing about 1.5cm. Then plasterboard and skim the gap between the two
frames and reapply the architrave.
old frame new frame
top rail top rail
| +----+ + +----+
+----+ +----+NEW |
I intend to use part of this solution for my problem. I need to conceal a
load of new pipes and wiring behind a sheet of plasterboard, which will
cause the wall the encroach upon the door frame, which is flush to the
existing wall. My solution would be the same, without the need to adjust the
top rail, just to advance one side of the frame to fit a narrow door.
Excellent idea Christian, however we wanted to keep the opening as wide as
possible to allow washing baskets etc to be carried easily.
We now have an outward opening door! I used a router to cut a new rebate on
the other side of the frame, finishing off with a chisel in the corners
where the router wouldn't reach. I will fill in the old rebate with strips
of wood before fitting architrave. The frame was fairly wide so there is
still enough strength in the top section to support the 2 courses of bricks.
There is no security issue either as it is an internal door.
This doesn't answer your question, but if this is an external door, be
careful with the security if you do make it outward opening. Outward
opening doors are easier to attack, with the hinge pins being a vulnerable
spot. Security hinges are available that can't be opened by
cutting/removing the hinge pin.
Re the missing lintel, are you sure there isn't a steel angle or similar
supporting the brickwork? This wouldn't be particularly visible from the
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