Advice on changing utility door to outward opening

Any suggestions please?
I want to change a utility room door so that it opens outwards to give more space in the room, so I want to take the existing door frame/lining out and turn it around or replace with a new frame.
The utility is part of a flat roof extension attached to the main building and the builders have laid one or two courses of bricks between the roof/ceiling joists on a bed of mortar directly onto the door frame (there seems to be no lintel). There is only about 6 inches from the top of the door frame to the ceiling level.
Any suggestions please on how I can get the frame out and back in the other way round without the course of brickwork collapsing and without damaging the wall tiles above the door in the utility?
Thanks
Kev
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Kev wrote:

Aren't the pieces of timber which provides the rebate against which the door closes simply strips fastened onto the main door frame members? If so, you just need to prise them off, reposition offset to suit the new door position, cut new hinge recesses and fill the old ones.
Chris
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Chris J Dixon Nottingham UK
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----- Original Message -----
Newsgroups: uk.d-i-y Sent: Saturday, February 14, 2004 4:09 PM Subject: Re: Advice on changing utility door to outward opening

Not as easy as that I'm afraid. The rebate for the door is machined into the single pieces of timber which for both sides & the top,
I can't see an alternative to the drastic solution option - hence the approach to uk.d-i-y for suggestions :-(
Kev
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How wide is the door? If it is a standard width door (i.e. 76cm), then you could buy a door the size below (i.e. 69cm), prise off the architrave and add a new door frame to the new smaller dimensions inside the existing frame. The top rail might be slightly more difficult to adjust, but might be solved by putting in a block of wood (see diagram below) and trimming the door, losing about 1.5cm. Then plasterboard and skim the gap between the two frames and reapply the architrave.
old frame new frame top rail top rail +---------+ +---------+ | +----+ + +----+ +----+ +----+NEW | +----+
I intend to use part of this solution for my problem. I need to conceal a load of new pipes and wiring behind a sheet of plasterboard, which will cause the wall the encroach upon the door frame, which is flush to the existing wall. My solution would be the same, without the need to adjust the top rail, just to advance one side of the frame to fit a narrow door.
Christian.
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Excellent idea Christian, however we wanted to keep the opening as wide as possible to allow washing baskets etc to be carried easily.
We now have an outward opening door! I used a router to cut a new rebate on the other side of the frame, finishing off with a chisel in the corners where the router wouldn't reach. I will fill in the old rebate with strips of wood before fitting architrave. The frame was fairly wide so there is still enough strength in the top section to support the 2 courses of bricks. There is no security issue either as it is an internal door.
Cheers
Kev
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On Sat, 14 Feb 2004 13:17:35 -0000, Kev wrote:

This doesn't answer your question, but if this is an external door, be careful with the security if you do make it outward opening. Outward opening doors are easier to attack, with the hinge pins being a vulnerable spot. Security hinges are available that can't be opened by cutting/removing the hinge pin.
Re the missing lintel, are you sure there isn't a steel angle or similar supporting the brickwork? This wouldn't be particularly visible from the outside
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