I am looking to put an extraction fan into my bathroom. i am looking at something along the lines of :
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would want to have this triggered of the light switch...so two questions
a) Does this come under the don't touch Part-P plan b) ignoring a) - would you wire it to the light ring or into the power ring - and thus how would you trigger it?
> I would want to have this triggered of the light switch...so two questions >
Sorry, I don't know the answers, but if I may be so bold, I'd like to tag on a question to this thread. I fitted one of these a while back and have a separate pull cord. As the extracting abiliites of these are quite poor, if you were to add another fan (using the same ducting), would it be better in series or parallel?
a) Yes I think so b) It has a permanent live feed from the lighting "ring" and a switched live feed from the light switch. You need to connect it through a special fan isolator switch.
Uh? Do you mean electrically (answer is parallel, of course, or it will only get 110 volts) or are you talking about putting 2 in line in the ducting (which would be a waste of time, the same amount of air would be moved)
I would want to have this triggered of the light switch...so two questions
It would do if you're in England and Wales and hadn't started the job before 1st January.
Lighting circuit.
I am offline so have not looked at the specific fan. Assuming you have standard loop-in at the ceiling rose lighting wiring and this is a fan with timer over-run, you just take a length of triple-and-earth from the ceiling rose to a triple-pole fan isolator switch, and from the switch to the fan.
CEILING ROSE FAN Live (loop through) Live Switched live (lamp) Trigger Neutral (lamp & loop) Neutral Earth Earth
Even if the fan is double insulated you must run the earth. Park it in a convenient piece of 'choc block' at the fan if there isn't a terminal.
The fan isolator switch can go in the bathroom if permitted by the Zones (check IEE regs or on-site guide or update on IEE website) or outside the bathroom.
Two in the same ducting. My instinct tells me that there would be some improvement by using two (either in series or parallel), but I'll bow to your greater knowledge.
I think the problem is noise. I have a very powerful centrifugal kitchen extractor in a copper hood (MFI 15 years ago), which I just measured as drawing 0.7 amps. It drowns out the kitchen TV. Think of a tube train leaving the station on the underground and you get a good impression.
> I would want to have this triggered of the light switch...so two questions >
Although it is supposed to be covered, I believe you can avoid it if the light switch is one of those outside the bathroom, i.e. not a pull cord. By fitting an in-line fan in the roofspace that sucks through a pipe and grill, there will be no electrical changes in the bathroom and hence it is okay to change without building control approval.
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