Adding a T fitting to a hot water pipe with no play in it

[tonyy]

I'm installing a new sink and have found a pretty convenient hot water pipe that goes to the bath close by. The problem is that the existing hot pipe is firmly fixed and as such has no play in it. This means that if I cut a section out to install the new Tee fitting, there is no play in the pipe to get both ends of the cut pipe into the Tee fitting. The existing pipe goes under the floor boards, so it is not easy to just disconnect it at one end to get some free movement. Any ideas on how to put a Tee fitting into this?

BTW I'm spending the money saved on getting a real plumber in on a fortnight in Greece!

Thanks for any ideas.

[Ian Stirling]

Is vaseline that expensive nowadays?

Several ways. Generally, the idea is to cut out enough pipe in order that the fittings (say a couple of straight couplings, two bits of pipe, a T) can be assembled onto the pipe. If the fittings normally have the pipes go in 20mm, for example, and make an adequate seal with 15mm of pipe in them, then that gives you 5mm of slack each fitting, meaning that you can get enough slack to put a fitting on with only 3 fittings - which straight couplings and a T can get you. I'd use end-feed for this, as it's more flexible, but solder ring would be fine as long as you pay attention. If you don't especially care about flowrate in the other pipe, you could use 4 bends, 4 bits of pipe, and a T, to make a "U" shaped loop of pipe to connect to.

[Andy Hall]

Yes.

You need a normal tee and a slip coupler.

Cut the pipe and then a section out of it to accomodate the tee, by measuring the required gap on the tee itself.

Cut the pipe again some distance from the tee position and slide the slip coupler onto the pipe.

Assemble the length of pipe just removed into the tee and fit the tee onto the other end of the existing pipe. Slide the slip coupler over both pipes and make all the joints.

This technique assumes you have no longitudinal play (which you suggest) but you should have latitudinal play enough to fit it all together.

Parts are

no. 7200,7201 or 7202 depending on size.

There are probably equivalents in end feed if you prefer.

[John Armstrong]

If the existing pipe isn't too short, you could add some bends and have your tee offset slightly:

---- ------ | | | | ---T--- |

Adds a bit of resistance to the flow in the existing pipe though.

[Set Square]

The usual trick is to cut out more pipe than you would otherwise need to, and to use a repair coupling - such as

- which is a long compression coupler without end-stops so as to slide over the pipe.

[The one I have quoted is for 15mm pipe, but you can probably get them for larger pipes if necessary].

[Capitol]

As it is for a sink and may not require much flow, consider a clamp on washing machine coupler.

Regards Capitol

[Set Square]

Since he's tee'ing into the bath hot feed. it's probably a 22mm pipe. Can you get washing machine clamp-on jobbies for pipes larger than 15mm?

[david lang]

Flexible connector

[Set Square]

Please explain how that helps to tee into a pipe with no end-float.

[david lang]

1) Remove section of pipe 2) Add tee piece 3) Add very short pipe to tee peice 4) use flexiible to connect together.

Dave

[Set Square]

Ah, I see! The flexible bit is to replace part of the existing pipe.

Sorry, I thought it was to connect the new tap - which could only be done

*after* the tee piece had been inserted!

The existing pipe is probably 22mm - so he'd need a flexible with 22mm compression or pushfit fittings on both ends. Very few flexibles are full bore though - so it may restrict the flow to the bath somewhat.

[tonyy]

Thanks for all the suggestions. I've gone ahead and used a slip coupler (or a burst pipe repair as its called in Homebase) as this seemed to be the solution with the least chance of my getting it all wrong. End result looks fine, doesn't leak and as a bonus it works. Sink is now plumbed in and the holiday is booked.

Once again thanks for all the suggestions.