A metal AND a fireplace problem

Thanks to Grunff who OKed the cement mix for the hole where the fireplace was ripped out (done and looking good), and thanks to all who suggested where to locate galvanised metal sheet.
One further question: Now the fireplace destruction has been filled up and replastered I want to do a "hole-in-the-wall" type fire but am having trouble sourcing a box frame type trim. The fire will not be used except for candles so doesn't need to be very robust. I think it would make a nice feature rather than closing it up with some ugly air vent in it. Local fireplace dealers only supply the metal trim with 3 sides for your traditional fires and don't stock the hole in the wall type with 4 sides. One design place can make a bespoke one in stainless steel for 300. choke. There is no way we could make one, don't have the skills, tools or time. Any suggestions as to where we might be able to source such a thing, preferable with mail order as travel to Great Britain is out of the question at the moment.
thanks as always Suzanne
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Suz wrote:

How about building the bottom 'side' using one or wo courses of bricks, then sitting a three sided frame on top of it?
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Grunff


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Or build it out of timber with metal sheet around the inside to take the heat of the candles. Then you'd get away with a wooden moulding around the outside edges. Paint them with a metallic effect if you want.
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Or build it out of timber with metal sheet around the inside to take the

Sorry I didn't say that very clearly. The back boiler and metal bits round the inside of the fire are still there, so it is totally fireproof on the inside. I just need the trim for round the edge to finish it off. We have raised the bottom with some bricks and mortar and if I'm stuck I'll get the 3 sided trim and put a black shelf affair at the bottom, but it would be nice to have a four sided brushed steel tidy edge. As long as it's cheap. There are 4 sided frames apparantly, prob due to the amount of house makeover programs, but I can't just seem to locate one. Not knowing the correct terms and descriptions is leading to poor Googling I think.
Suzanne
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If the back boiler is still being used, then be very careful on the ventilation you leave for the burner to work properly.
Does the back boiler cause the front of the fireplace to heat up so much to scorch a timber moulding ? If it does, then you need the back boiler serviced, and quickly. You should still be able to fit a timber moulding around the opening, even with a back boiler still in place. Just make sure the space is vented properly to allow the burner to use all the fuel and not go pumping CO into the house.
A timber moulding is the cheapest option I would think.
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I think I'm using the wrong terms again. The back boiler bit is heated from the fire, doesn't do anything other than bring water near the flames. It still is warm because the previous owner obviously used it to heat the house and then added the central heating which now runs through this. It acts like a kind of radiator. Very wasteful but changing that is down our list of priorities as its a big job.
Timber will work absolutely fine. The heat is minimal.
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So it's just an old water tank for the back of an open fire ? That won't cause any problems at all, so you'd be able to use a timber moulding fixed with No More Nails around the outside of the opening. Cheap. Cheerful, and can be finished in any style you wish.
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the optional four-sided surrounds for the RIVA cassette gas/electric fire range. Can be a bit pricey, but may be suitable since they are bought separately from the actual fire. Or see if a metal basher (or even the people who make stainless steel chip fryers) will make one for you.
--
Andrew

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writes

I'll second that - take a look in the yellow pages for a stainless steel fabricator - I used who does just that (surfaces and bespoke metalwork for chip shops and the like) for some of my kitchen surfaces and splashbacks etc...much cheaper than kitchen suppliers
Gin
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