...I thank you
If you dont have a router table,but have a drill ress then use that as a router table ;-)
Just make a wooden platform(bolt/clamp to DP base) with adjustable guides for wood to be slid along and pass through cutter.
Ideal for rebates and the like.
Here's the 'P'
One thought would be are the chuck bearings designed for side thrust?
No, they almost certainly are not. Also, the RPM is very slow, which means that more will be taken off each bite, and rigidity is even more important - which the drill press will not have. This will cause very high stresses in the cutter, and may cause bits to fly off. Not to mention that the side forces may well cause the chuck attachment to actually fall out - as these are usually morse tapers.
It does work,but as stated there's not enough speed although it will cut in moderate small shavings(passes).
Ho well. ;-(
======================== I've been using mine for years without mishap and although the speed is very low compared with a conventional router good results can be achieved if you take your time.
It won't work very well with the more complex bits (router bits) but for routine work it's pretty good. I made a beautiful set of kitchen cupboard cappings and footings (friezes??) a few weeks ago and only a light sanding was needed before varnishing.
My table is a piece of Contiboard, 9" wide X 36" long. It's fixed to the drill table with countersunk screws with nuts and washers underneath. I use various bits of offcut timber to make expendable fences to suit different jobs and occasionally for fine adjustment I use a bottle jack under the table to raise it by small amounts.
Cic.
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I may be wrong, but I suspect that your drill press is considerably more rigid than most.
=================== You're probably right. It's one of those crude Eastern European items that came here about 20 years ago - built like the Iron Bridge but without the refinements.
More significantly it's used by myself only for DIY and would probably not last very long in a commercial environment if used continuously as an overhead router. It was affordable at the time of buying and I'll keep it until it gives up the ghost.
Cic.
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How do you mean*more rigid* the one i bought from Aldi is heavy as the bulk of it is made from steel&cast metal and is bolted to the melamine worktop. granted the speed is nowhere near perfect for use in routing but it does do some aspects of profiling with care.
=========================== Basically it means just that there should be no flex in the pillar itself or any free play between the pillar and the base or head. Remember that some larger floor-standing drills are nearly 6 ' tall and any flex in the column would make accurate work impossible.
If you're using a fairly cheap drill as an overhead router then the most likely point of failure is whatever fixing is used to hold the head to the column - probably just a small grub screw. This isn't likely to cause problems when used as intended as a drill but the side forces caused by use as an overhead router might cause the head to turn on the column. Just make sure it's well tightened.
I would suggest that 'melamine' isn't really strong enough for any drill press. Mine is fitted to a 6' x 2' bench with 2" solid wood top.
Cic.
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