9inch tall skirting board

[Matt A]

I need to source some 9inch skirting board for a victorian house I am doing up. My ex-gf decided to destroy what was previously in the rooms (handy), and now it seems that most builders merchants and the like only do up to about 170mm tall.

I am not quite sure what design I am after yet, but I would almost settle for anything as long as the height was correct and it was not too plane looking.

Is it possible to make your own, or simply not worth the effort? I was wondering if you can get a fancy adjustable plane and a number of differentlfashioned blades? I know it might not be the faster way to get some, but it might look best in the long run.

Someone suggested buying some 170mm stuff and stucking a piece of wood along the bottom of it, which seems a bit like a cop out to me.....

Any comments most welcome.

Thanks, Matt

[mark]

If you get it from a timber merchant, it is not much difference for them to put a moulded edge on a board 9" wide or 3" wide. You will just have to wait a few days for non-standard stuff. A composite skirting might be easier to fit, ie 6" +3" moulded section, unless you have a sliding mitre saw.

mark

[TMC]

Its amazing what you can find with google

every one uses a router for this sort of work now

Unless you have a spindle moulder but then the tools would cost more than the plane above

Skirting from

example

Tony

[Usenet Nutter]

Dunno where you stay but I'm in Glasgow and needed to replace some in my Vict'n tenement flat .The original skirting is 9" but with a moulding along the top. I went to a place locally in Paisley and got them to slice up an 8 x 4 MDF sheet and I also bought skirting top moulding from them ...they shape it themselves .Painted it looks fine .

[geoff]

In message , Matt A writes

Place round the corner used to do them to order (before TP bought them out) no idea now. If you wanted one of their stock patterns, it was reasonably cheap, if you wanted a specific pattern, you had the setting up charge to factor in

You could always buy PAR planking and stick some beading on top

[Stuart Noble]

Makes sense to use mdf for the bulk of the profile, softwood of that width being very expensive these days. 5" of one thickness, 3" of something slightly thinner, and a 1" softwood bead on top of that maybe. Easier to cut them separately and just sit on one top of the other rather than mitreing the whole 9"

[Stuart Noble]

And you can't tell it isn't a one piece moulding. My local merchant wants £5.47 per m for 25 x 200 though

[John Rumm]

Depends how you do it, if the skirting is plain for most of the height and just moulded at the top, then its a sensible way to do it. (conceal the join at the moulding rather than half way down the board!)

[fred]

Third vote for fabricated skirting, v common in Scotland where ornate rooms have 12" skirting. As long as it's being painted then 12mm MDF is perfect for the job on the plain part, cheap and readily sawn at source into long strips. Mine are battened off the wall to about an inch to the finished surface. The purpose run mouldings to finish the top off were originally flat and fairly thin, and tacked on tacked on at about a

60deg angle to finish but try sourcing those now. Instead, some picture rail mouldings can work as a cheap source of capping, for those in Glasgow, Kelvin Timber have one that adapts well to that use.

[Usenet Nutter]

My skirtings are one 9" piece plain wood with the seperate moulding nailed along the top.The skirting sits just over an inch off the wall supported by battens and the mouldings are nailed to them . Timber Express in Abercorn Street,Paisley have the mouldings in stock for anyone local.

[Rob]

Take a look here

[Bob Martin]

[Adam Aglionby]

Think its called soldier skirting, two part , where plain panel is spaced from wall with short batten soldiers and moulding is pinned to top.

Cheers Adam