5 Questions

1. I am looking for a site that I can get some free plans on for making furniture, dimensions, drawings etc. Are there any out there?
2. I have lino in the bathroom and floorboards underneath. I am wanting to tile it with some mosaic tiles. Can I tile on top of the existing lino or does it have to be removed, if so what do I need as a surface to tile on?
3. If I go for a laminated floor in the bathroom instead is there any that will withstand water when we use the bath. The floor gets wet sometimes but I don't want it curling up. Is there such a thing as waterproof laminated flooring?
4. In the bathroom we have a large cabinet with plain doors. I want to put some mirrors on the doors, what's the best way to stick them on? Someone mentioned if I use silicone it will show through, is that correct?
5. And finally, we have just had a UPVC door and frame fitted on the front of the house. Now earlier in the week when we had high winds it was howling like mad. As I am in a HA house it will take ages to get someone out so is thee anything I can do? It all looks sealed as far as I can see but there is a small piece of silicone coming off the window in the door.
Thanks for the help, I am a complete novice so go easy on me guys, layman's terms preferred :) Regards Roy
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Roy Martin wrote:

Here is a selection from my bookmarks:-
http://absolutelyfreeplans.com/index.htm#Index http://www.cabinetmaking.co.uk / http://www.artreasures.com/Polishing.htm http://www.amgron.clara.net/index.html http://www.woodworkersworkshop.com/resources /

Personally I would remove it and then screw down some WBP 3/4" ply over the floor area. That should give you a flat surface to tile on that should not flex (and hence allow the tiles to crack)

Some of the better quality brands claim to be OK in "wet service areas" - the 12mm version of the B&Q click together stuff for example. To be sure it would be better to coat the whole floor with a sealant once it is laid to make sure.

Don't know if it would show through - presumably a thin layer of translucent silicone spread evenly over the back would not show through. You could also go for fixing it with some picture framing type beading - i.e. making a frame for the mirror. That would also allow the option of removing it in future should it need replacing for any reason.

You may find there are some adjustment screws on the hinges that can make the door fit tighter or looser.... then again you may not!
--
Cheers,

John.

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On Wed, 19 Nov 2003 03:01:46 +0000, John Rumm

relatively flat, then 3/4 wbp is total overkill, 3/8 wbp would be sufficient obviously after priming it with a watered down pva solution.
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Tiles need a rock hard surface or they break and come off.

why not use solid wood? Pine is good, and outlasts laminates in most cases.

Yes many glues can affect the wafer thin reflective coating. Use mirror mate or similar, comes in cartridges.

You could use silicone to reseal it, but if its new that might muck things up warranty wise. Tape might leave permanent marks.

Welcome to uk.d-i-y. God help you ;)
Regards, NT
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Regarding Q5, you may well find (as I did) that the loose silicone is actually causing the howling. The wind blows under the lip of loose material and vibrates it rather like the reed in a wind instrument. If you watch it when the wind is blowing, you'll see whether this is the problem. Replacing that stretch of the seal should cure it.
John Miller
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Regards Roy
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