Hi guys, me again, I thought the problem was solved but sadly not. The electric part of the valve seems to be working ok now, with the little lever moving up or down accordingly, but the radiators are still heating up both when I put it on water only, or radiators only, does this mean the valve will need replacing, and should I put flushing additive in first or after replacing valve, and then inhibiter? [no inhibitor was added by fitter] thanks Richard.
Hi guys, me again, I thought the problem was solved but sadly not. The electric part of the valve seems to be working ok now, with the little lever moving up or down accordingly, but the radiators are still heating up both when I put it on water only, or radiators only, does this mean the valve will need replacing, and should I put flushing additive in first or after replacing valve, and then inhibiter? [no inhibitor was added by fitter] thanks Richard.
Hi Pete the make is Drayton and the model number is ma1 thanks, its only one or two years old its been replaced three times since c/h fitted 7 years ago thanks.
richard, is there a possibility that there is a system fault ,maybe the f\e conections are incorrect where they join the heating. or is the system pumping over. these will cause the system to fail or the least components will fail. The valves should last longer than they have been and putting a new one in a system with faults maynot be prudent. If you want further advis let me know pete
Hi pete what are the f/e connections? does it stand for flo ebb? and how could I check to see if that is the case, and how can I check if the system is pumping over? Thanks Richard
"Richard" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@g10g2000cwb.googlegroups.com:
I'm beginning to worry about the wiring, now you tell us about all the replacements.
Now I'm not an expert on 3 port valves, but one of them "diverter?" gives HW priority (I theeeenk) and one has 3 positions, includinn a central position which gives both HW and CH.
I wish one of the experts like Ed Sirett, was in on this, as to make a 3 position valve work properly the wires have to be connected properly to achieve the halfway position.
I'm only mumbling on because I've no personal experience; but I if you look at
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will give you some idea of my maundering; and ther's a very nice wiring diagram (honeywell Y plan) -available on the honeywell uk site, but I'm buggered if I can find it - perhaps someom=ne can help.
I finally got it!!
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Plan
and if you scroll up a bit, you'll see the W plan wiring.
make sure your valve and wiring follow this pattern (In your vas Y plan, I think) in particular look at the wiring to the 3 port valve in each case, and see the difference.
And then ths summer, do what I did, get a couple of two port (simple on/off valves) and go to S plan :)
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