3 way diverter question

Hi folks,

After two years of having the central heating operating by sticking my diverter on open (manual) and setting the hot water on I decided to replace the dodgy synchon motor. Tootled along to Wickes (£7 above what I should have paid) and picked up a nice shiny new one. Fitted it this morning during the Wales game.

Anyway ..... the motor doesn't seem to be doing very much but everything seems to be working!. If I put the HW on by itself it will move the valve if it is out of position. However, no combination of HW, Central heating etc will move it again.

When I put the central heating on I can hear one of the two micro switches at the end of stroke position operating (electrically rather than mechnically presumably as the manual adjustment bar at the back hasn't moved).

Should the micro switch kicking coincide with the motor turning in the opposite direction to move the valve? Does the fact that the micro switch is operating but the motor does not turn mean that the minute little 3/4 component circuit board is either knackered or has a dry joint somewhere?

It's a standard HW tank sensor, a single room sensor, 3 way valve with a Honeywell 9210 valve controller.

Anyway, after the diverter valve did move when I set it to HW, the radiators are working fine, the room sensor is happily telling the system to fire the boiler and all appears well. I'm not so sure it is working as intended though?

Any advice/comments greatly welcomed!

John

Reply to
Wdyw
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Have you actually left the cover off and had a look to see what the valve is doing when the programmer is in different settings ?

Reply to
BigWallop

On mine, the manual level is not joined to the actuator -- you can't necessarily use it as an indicator of actuator position. It sounds like yours is working fine.

Reply to
Andrew Gabriel

Cheers folks, I'll get the cover off and have a look one day this week. Two (hopefully) successful DIY projects on the one weekend ....a new record!

Reply to
DrJohn

Right, the valve seems to be operating correctly ..onto the next part ....how the heck do I program the CH and HW to come on at different times?

Try as I might I can only get the programmer to set both to come on/off at set times (Pottertton NP2001 programmer) and thus unless I turn HW to off the tank sesnsor tells the boiler to shut down when it reahes its set temperature even though the CH temp has not been reached. I'm sure thereis way to program CH and HW separately but its defeating meat the moement (I hate inheriting things where the previous owners don't leave the instructions!). Oh, openingthe progammer there are two dip switches ...one says program, the other security. I assume security stops you changing settings- any ideas what the other one is for?

John

Reply to
Wdyw

How old is the programmer ? The only ones I can find are:

Potterton Myson

EP2000 Electronic Programmer 24 hour 2 on/off £ 46.00

EP2002 Electronic Programmer (Weekday/Weekend) 2 on/off £ 46.00

EP3002 Electronic Programmer 2 on/off 7 day £ 46.00

EP4000 Electronic Timeswitch 24 2 on/off £ 46.00

EP4002 Electronic Timeswitch 3 on/off 5/2 day £ 46.00

EP5002 Electronic Timeswitch 7 day 3 on/off £ 46.00

EP6002 Electronic Programmer 7 day independent channels £ 46.00

MINI MINDER E Electronic Programmer 24 hour 2 on/off £ 41.00

MINI MINDER ES Electronic Timeswitch 24 hour 2 on/off £ 41.00

Reply to
BigWallop

I assume same age as the house 10years or so.

The only ones I can find are:

Its an EP2001. Weekday/Weekend 2on/off

Reply to
Wdyw

I think the best advice I can give you, would be for you to ask Potterton for a user manual on the timer.

Request one from here:

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find out how the timer works first before you go changing anything else.

Reply to
BigWallop

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