In my bathroom I currently have 1 pull cord which operates both the light and the extractor fan. I want to separate the 2 functions, but without a whole extra switch.
So what I want to know is, can you get a pull cord switch with 2 cords coming out, which can operate different things?
And then you have to remember what cord operates what.
What a silly post.
You may find building regs require the fan to operate with the light switch.
I've never heard of any type of pull cord switch other than the standard item.
However ISTR the new 17th Ed wiring regulations permits conventional wall switches in bathrooms, provided they're rcd protected - assuming separate switching meet the BR on ventilation.
Another alternative is a moisture sensitive extraction fan.
Best solution for the fan is a ceiling mounted passive infared and just a single pull switch for the light.
On Mon, 19 May 2008 03:05:14 -0700 (PDT) someone who may be " snipped-for-privacy@gglz.com" wrote this:-
The 16th and earlier editions also permitted wall switches, provided they were out of reach of someone using a bath or shower (which generally means a big bathroom).
Useful if the aim is to extract moisture. Personally I think the are an excellent idea in such circumstances, provided people are willing to open the window when necessary as well.
On Mon, 19 May 2008 10:16:07 GMT someone who may be "George" wrote this:-
For a toilet perhaps, but then (at least in this country) there is no requirement for a fan in a toilet if it has an opening window.
In a room with a bath or shower people are likely to not work out how an automatic fan works, leave the window closed when they vacate the room and thus cause mould. A humidity sensor deals with this problem.
hence the fan coming into action when you park your bottom on the toilet...whats the use of the fan not operating when the room is not humid enough to operate when you're having a crap?
I'd say it would be a very small bathroom if you could reach such a switch from the bath or shower. Even with my original - which was just big enough for a bath and basin - no bog - you wouldn't have been able to.
You make one cord say 6 inches shorter than the other, so it's trivial to tell the difference...
the reply was for sure.
J^n
On Mon, 19 May 2008 12:57:17 +0100 someone who may be "Dave Plowman (News)" wrote this:-
Depends on the layout. In particular the relationship between the bath/shower and the door (where the switch is likely to be).
And what about when relatives,friends come to stay...do they take up bell ringing.lol
No the reply was valid.
My parents have a motion sensor attached to their extractor fan, which makes a noise like a Lancaster bomber taking off. When visiting, before I even remove my trousers, my first task is to bung a bit of bogpaper over the sensor so that 2 mins later I can read the Sunday Times in peace.
David
Particularly if the bathroom wall is of a stud partition construction, it's usually a doddle to mount the switch in the same position on the
*outside* wall of the bathroom.David
What if its a spicey curry moment?
Maybe your dad used an old air raid siren thinking it was an extractor fan. ;-)
On Mon, 19 May 2008 10:47:18 GMT someone who may be "George" wrote this:-
A little comprehension should indicate what.
That is when opening the window is necessary.
Too much information.
Did you go and watch the Lancaster over the Derwent on Friday? A Stitfire and Hurricane as extras.
Adam
... whereupon your children decide it's a great joke to turn off the light when you're in the bath.
All this auto stuff is all very well except for the pee in the night case. Sometimes you do NOT want it coming on, because of the noise.
Andy
In my last house with the humidity controlled fan I ftted a pull switch that was momentary action to start the fan (made by removing the latching bit from standard pull switch). Thus if you accidentally dropped a stinker you just momentarily pulled the cord to start the fan to clear the air.
If you get a humidity contolled fan get a temperature compensated one (about £100 or more) or else you will find it will just turn itself on in winter when it gets cold or it will not turn on in the summer when it gets hot. Went through numerous humidty controlled fans (could alter humidity trip point, but there was not a setting suitable for both summer and winter) before twigging that you need a temperature compensated one.
I had the oposite problem with the cheapo humidty controlled fans, they ran continuously in the summer when the humidity was high, and not enough in the winter.
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