Actually I can find the documentation. But it is not a reg. It is part of the very poorly worded load of bollocks in Appendix 15 1 (iii)
Note the use of the word "generally be acheived by" just above that statement in the 17th.
IMHO 2.5kW ovens are short term high loads that soon get up to temperature and then cycle. They are the type of devices that a ring circit was designed for. I am pretty sure my dishwasher, washing machine and tumble drier draw higher or similar loads for longer than the oven can.
Looking at the details it is a very 'manual' oven so probably worth only the original price but given the stupid overly electronically controlled way the market is going these days I'd pay extra for a manual one ;-) (not that much extra though).
Have to say - the cheapie I bought about a year ago (Beko, 2.2kW, 68 litre capacity) was ?190 and has the most basic controls going, but it's not let me down yet. It gets used 6 mornings out of 7, run up to max (well,
250C) to bake bread in, and "just works".
It does have hot spots though, so I need to turn things to get an even bake, so I suspect what you pay for in posher ones is not only the contorls, but a better internal hot air distribution system. At least I'd hope so!
I'd like to know what the ones they use on the Great British Bake off are. Anyone know? I do like their bottom sliding doors...
Generally you can ignore short term loads like kettles and toasters in domestic kitchens.
Hob almost certainly (unless very small) - ovens however are often fine on a general purpose circuit since their total maximum load is often no more than a dishwasher, and their diverse load typically much less due to the action of their thermostats.
But not if they are on at the same time as the oven. Look what happens to the National Grid when some highly watched tv programme finishes. The grid sags because of the load imposed by millions of kettles (and water pumping stations).
That's a good point and crosses over to other appliances too. I'm looking at a side by side fridge and freezer pair and they'll need to be
500mm wide to fit. Beko are probably the only option but they are a bit clunky and have no fan circulation. In contrast I've used a Bosch with air circulation that we call the miracle fridge because it keeps stuff fresh longer than I ever thought possible.
Not sure what you mean by no fan circulation - The Beko I have sucks air in via the big central fan at the back, pushes it over the heaters then out via 4 vents. This is my first fan oven though, so i've really no idea what others are like...
I suspect whatever they are the answer is: Expensive!
Even if the circuit is running at full capacity (say 7kW) before you stick an additional 3kW kettle on, there are unlikely to be any adverse effects. Yes you are now overloading the circuit, but since the load will only be there for a couple of minutes at most, the overall heating effect on the circuit cable etc will be minimal (and even if the circuit was at max current load prior to adding the extra
13A, its unlikely it had been like that for long enough to get the conductor temperatures up to the 70 deg PVC limit). A 32A breaker is not going to trip on a short term 45A load.
The thermal response of the MCB is designed to work in sympathy with the circuit cabling. Permitting fairly substantial short term overload or longer term moderate overload. But clearing overloads which would result in running circuit cables over their maximum conductor temperature for significant durations.
True it does, but I am not sure what the relevance is to the point being discussed?
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