12V LED Recommendation Please

Just started to rent a garage that has no services in.

I wish to put some lighting in, so the best thing to me would be LEDs as this will be able to run on low power consumption from a 12V car battery.

I am wondering about light fittings and also the type of cable I should use.

I am a novice when it comes to LEDs so would like to get views from others more well informed than me.

How many lamps should I use, lamp fittings, cable etc etc etc.

I will be using the garage to do repairs to my own vehicles and other small repair jobs but need good light.

Jim G

Reply to
the_constructor
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Best place to look for 12V LED fittings is a camping/caravan supplier.

Reply to
David WE Roberts

Linear fl, cfl and led are all contenders.

Car batteries dont last long if you run them near flat or leave them flat.

cable: decide whoich lighting to go with then calculate your run current. Cable choice depends on ampacity and voltage drop, which depends on length.

depends entirely on what lamps you choose

Then I'd look at linear fluorescent. LEDs would be good for an inspection light and low level lighting

Rapidonline.com is a fair starting place for LED lighting dice.

NT

Reply to
meow2222

the_constructor formulated the question :

You are not going to get good light from a 12v battery, at least not for long. Probably best would be a few 12v florescents as used in caravans, for general lighting, with a 12v LED light for more local use in the area you are working on.

Best not to expect the car's own battery to supply the current - use a leisure type battery which is designed to be regularly discharged. You would need to take that in the house to charge it, unless you could arrange a solar or wind charger.

In the dim and distant past and in similar circumstances, I used a couple of paraffin pressure lamps to provide light (and some heat), but not a good idea when messing near petrol.

Reply to
Harry Bloomfield

Following advice here, I would strongly recommend using normal mains fittings with 12 volt CFL bulbs, also available from caravan suppliers. I have these in a stables, run off a standard leisure battery. I use batten fittings inside and various exterior weatherproof lights outside. I use a normal switched spreader with a 5 amp thermal trip from CPC between the battery and the spreader, then 13 A plugs and 0.75 mm "lighting" flex. You might chose to rely on the plug fuses.

The 12 volt CFL gives very similar light levels to the equivalent mains one.

The other type of mobile light which I have found very effective is one of these:

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it provides a directional but wide, diffuse beam. It used mains bulbs but when the inverter dies (which it will) you can wire the socket direct to the battery and use another 12V CFL.

Reply to
newshound

If you can leave the doors open, have a work area near the doors and work during daylight then a battery powered inspection lamp might be sufficient.

But for general lighting IMHO it is a waste of time pissing about with LED's (Point source meaning lots of shadows, and the need to spend a fortune to get decent light levels, plus poor colour rendition and lots of waste heat)

A number of years ago I went through a similar exercise, not for a garage but for offgrid lighting in a *very* remote location with near zero possibility of natural daylight. Linear fluorescents were the right choice then and almost certainly still are. Compact fluorescents are universally hopeless in all circumstances so don't be tempted to use them, you'd get more light be rubbing a couple of glowworms together.

So convert conventional fluorescent lamps (strip lights) to 12v DC operation, run off a battery suitable for deep discharge, charge up at home or bang a solar panel on the roof and fit a charge controller.

Don't even think about buying a caravan / boat 12v fluorescent for general lighting because they will be overpriced flimsy Chinese s**te.

Google "12 dc fluorescent ballast" for a few 'expensive' options, or maybe these from ebay for 11 quid

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(plus about the same again for a 4ft fitting from a local electrical wholesaler)

I've used these ballasts before but they are not readily available in the UK

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connection etc)

Reply to
The Other Mike

Depends on what you need. I find a single 8w cfl is plenty for mucking out a 12 ft x 12 ft stable, and that's under a black onduline roof with no reflector. Not ideal for reading fine print. For close up work under a bonnet or inside a car you will need some sort of lead light or torch.

AGREED

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Reply to
newshound

What about power tools, etc?

Bill

Reply to
Bill Wright

The Lidl and Aldi LED 'wand' lights are reasonably priced, provide a good light, and can be charged from 12V or 240V sources. However they won't provide as much light as a couple of large mains flourecent tubes. See other comments on converting mains tubes to 12V operation.

Reply to
David WE Roberts

5m roll of 5050 LED tape, resin coated for water resistance, 60 LEDs/ m, cut to lengths.

Power consumption typically 14-16W/m , leisure batteries longer lived than car batteries.

Cheers Adam

Reply to
Adam Aglionby

A single larger fluorescent has better efficacy than 2 or more smaller ones. So perhaps a single fl light plus an LED inspection light.

The inspection light should be ok on speaker flex. Pick a medium weight one for a workable degree of robustness.

A 4' fluorescent would use around 4A, 1mm^2 T&E or 1mm^2 mains flex would give

44mV per metre voltage drop, so don't put it too far from the battery. 5m is fine, much more starts wasting battery power

NT

Reply to
meow2222

eBay, chinese suppliers direct. I've recently been building market stall d= isplay lights, based on outdoor rated 5W (9 LEDs in a square array) floodli= ghts that are a _very_ solid turned aluminium case about 2" across and run = directly from 12V. Cost under a tenner each. A couple of gel lead acids (o= ne spare) run them for a whole day.

Cabling is cheap speaker cable - 30-something strand. I'm using 2 pin DIN c= onnectors, as I also have some Ikea desklamps wired into the same system.

Reply to
Andy Dingley

So why would according to the diagram on the balast, they only use one side of the pins to connect to the balast ?

I like this idea so I've just asked on recycle for working or not fittings

Jim G

Reply to
the_constructor

Think it's fairly common these days - no need for the heaters.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

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