118mm halogen flood LED replacement?

[Mike Tomlinson]

I have a security fitting with a 500W 117mm halogen lamp. The lamp has failed, and I'm looking at a LED replacement to save energy as it spends a fair bit of time on. The fitting is a good quality one in otherwise good nick, so I'd rather not replace the whole thing with some cheap crap.

Have looked at the usual suspects - LED Hut, ebay, TLC, screwfix, etc. and am undecided. One site claimed an 8W LED replacement was equivalent to a 100W halogen, which won't be bright enough. A ~250 W halogen equivalent would be ok.

Any recommendations please?

[PeterC]

Apart from LED (which is what I'll fit eventually), the proper CFL is OK. For outdoor use, it should be suitable for low temperatures. The Lidl one that I put up for a neighbour about 3 - 4 years ago is still working and, at

23W, provides a good light immediately. I've no idea how it compares with a 250W hlogen.

[ss]

Last year I installed a 20w LED flood to cover an area 30 x 25 feet and gives good light over that area, 2 x alleyways at side of house I installed 10w LEDs and again good enought light for 10 foot wide alleys. I use for security not for reading books, personally I find the original halogen type far too bright. I bought cheap off of ebay and so far no issues other than had to rewire to replace the short cable they came with. Always check they are earthed on the cheapos as some just have the earth with loose.

[ss]

Ebay 2 for £30

30w supposed to equal 300w halogen.

[DerbyBorn]

I often wonder who fitted the Halogen Floods that are set to aim the beam horizontally. What benefit did the installer think that the 50% above the horizontal will offer.

[charles]

you used the word "think". I doubt if it was even considered.

[alan_m]

High power LEDs need a heat-sink. Even on the cheapest of LED floodlights the LED is bolted directly to the metal casing which acts as a substantial heat-sink. A replacement in the same style as the halogen probably wouldn't last very long if suspended in non-circulating air.

[DerbyBorn]

charles wrote in news: [e-mail]:

Annoyingly common. Do you think it is installers who then say to the customer - I have finished - look how far the light goes - it is lighting up the houses across the road. Oh thanks!

[dennis]

A lot of the cheap floods can't be aimed correctly as the PIR fouls the housing.

[polygonum]

Add onto that the number which never, or only rarely, switch off. Never sure if it is the PIR/controls being poorly set up, or lack of PIR. 500W all night, every night adds up to quite a cost.

10W LED - with PIR - does us fine.

[PeterC]

If I ever change my outside lights, it'll be for the twin 'spots' with LED lamps. A couple of 10W ones, pref. E27/14 or GU10 would do and they can be aimed where I want them. The adjoining house's flood lights up most of a spinney. What's more, the dog won't stay in at night so he has the light on for what must be hours every night. Annoyingly for an integral PIR, the thing has lasted for about

10 years - I'm longing for it to go wrong then I can fit a new one for them.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

I don't think you'll easily find an LED unit which is a true equivalent of

500 watts of halogen. And if you did, it will cost a fortune. And as ever, take the claims as being the equivalent of so many incandescent watts with a pinch of salt, as they seem always to be greatly exaggerated.

CPC do one which is a claimed 300w, but costs 300 quid.

I recently replaced 300 watt halogens which were falling apart with 30w LEDs from Lidl. Sadly of course a special offer, so probably none left. They give a lot less light - but actually are adequate for the job, and you don't have to panic about how long they are in use. They came with PIRs, which I bypassed.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

And is total bollocks.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

Yes - found that with the Lidl LED ones I bought recently. And have one on the side of the rear addition, and had to have it swivel down enough to miss the window next door. So had to extend the bracket. (I didn't need the PIR and had bypassed it)

The design has the power supply to the side of the lamp and on a pretty substantial heatsink, so I'm hoping it doesn't allow the heat from the LED to damage things. But it has been on for long periods since fitting, and seems OK.

[Andrew Gabriel]

Should use a separate PIR - this sort of light should be fitted much higher than the correct position for a PIR controlling it.

[Mike Tomlinson]

En el artículo , Mike Tomlinson escribió:

Thanks for all the replies. I needed to get the light working again asap, so got a 240W replacement from the local DIY shop as a stopgap. It's plenty bright enough.

This is winging its way from Hong Kong now:

It may be utter s**te, but for a fiver it's gotta be worth a punt. I chose this one as it has LEDs all the way round unlike some of the alternatives, so it actually uses the reflector in the fitting.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

Provided you're happy with a tiny fraction of the light level from a 500w halogen.

My 30w LEDs give a lot less light than the 300w halogens they replaced. Not sure I'd be happy with less. And they are in a custom made fitting for LEDs.

[Chris French]

In message , "Dave Plowman (News)" writes

Yup, assuming that Mike ordered a 10W one. The spec on the page says 980 Lumens. 100W halogen is about 1800 lumens?

Probably equivalent to about 100W halogen

[Andy Burns]

I'm trying to get my head round the concept of "needed ASAP" and "ordered from HK" in the same sentence ...

[Chris French]

:-) Needed ASAP = getting a halogen replacement lamp, so no hurry for delivery now