100mm flexible flue liner, and fixing same

[AL_n]

I'm installing a radiant gas fire. On the back of the fire is an exhaust outlet, 95mm (3 3/4") dia. It projects about 3". The bottom of my chimney is currently sealed off with a piece of board. I'd like to cut a 4" dia hole in that board and use a short length of flexible flue liner going from the hole, to the outlet on the back of the fire.

Is this OK to do? As the outlet is 95mm dia and the flexible flue liner would be 100mm dia (I presume), what should I use to pad out the 5mm space, such that the flexible liner can be pushed onto the exhaust oulet, and be reasonably gas tight.

Where can I obtain a short length of 4" flexible flue liner? Can it be bought by the metre anywhere? What materials are suitable?

Thanks...

Al

[A.Lee]

I do everything in my house, fitted a gas hob, boiler etc, but I wouldn't think of fitting a gas fire, as I know nothing about flue requirements,and even less about testing them, and it seems you do not too, so just get a gas man in to do it, then you know you won't be killed by carbon monoxide poisoning.

Also, is it a wooden board? If so, I dont think you should be putting a flue close to it. Alan.

[John Rumm]

BS 5440-1:2000 and BS 5871-1:2005 are your friends here...

You may be able to download them from your local library's web site. Drop me an email if you can't, I may be able to point you at an alternative source ;-)

[AL_n]

John Rumm wrote in news:wJSdnVazjN-t0 [e-mail]:

Thanks - I found them online - valuable for making sure the job complies with building regs, at least...

Al

[John Rumm]

Yup, more to the point they cover pretty much every flue option out there. With most gas fires under 7kW in front of a chimney, you only need a closure plate cut[1] to match the flue spigot on the back of the fire. So long as the chimney has draught (check with a smoke match), then it should be fine.

[1] If using the normal galvanised mild steel fairly floppy stuff, then a stanley knife drawn a few times over each cut (against a steel rule if a straight cut) will do the cutting. Once the flue hole is scored out, small screwdriver close to the score, tapped through with a hammer will start the scored bit popping out, it can then be torn out with pliers.

[Heliotrope Smith]

"AL_n" wrote in news:Xns9F5AC9E7CC490zzzzzz@130.133.4.11:

You should follow the manufactuers installation instructions.You would see tha the fire will not be connected directly to a flue liner or any other type of flue pipe. Only a back boiler may be connected directly to a flexible liner.

The flue spiggot on the back would go into a hole of suitable size to accomodate it in a closure plate.

The closure plate will be of non combustable material (usually aluminium or mild steel.

The cosure plate will replace the board currently covering the fireplace opening. The catchment space behind the closure plate and the chimney must be swept clean and the chimney terminal inspected as to suitability.

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