House Shut Off Valve Replacement

Our local water has gone to an meter that we can't shut off ($100 fine) and I need to replace the leaking tub faucet. The whole house shut-off hasn't worked since a can fell off the shelf and hit it (it's in the pantry)... so I really need to replace it first. At the same time, I plan to install a whole house water filter by raising the protruding part of the water pipes to accomodate it. I have to call the water co to turn the water off, and then again to turn it back on so I'll need to have the parts first.
I plan to replace the sweated valve by cutting off the pipes (sick out about 2" from the wall) and use either flare or compression fittings and insert a couple of 90 deg to raise it to about 15" from the floor.
I want the replacement shut-off valve on the "in" side of the configuration, and the water filter down the line from that.
Short of crawling underneat the house (IF the pipes can even be seen there) - is there an easier way to tell which is in and which is out on a valve that doesn't work?
Any thoughts of whether flare, compression or none-of-the-above is better appreciated as well.
Ja Who (FWIW, I'd call someone to do this, but the Plumber "friend" I paid to do it has never done so and I can't afford to pay someone else and I know it may end up costing me more if I screw this up.)
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just cut it then put a compression valve on there
and

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Compression, thanks! They were out of 3/4" at Lowes, can you believe it? Should have started at Ferguson.
When I cut the pipe, will the side with the most drip be the side the water comes in on? (I want the water filter on the down side of the shut-off valve).
JaWho!
house (IF the pipes can even be seen : > there) - is there an easier way to tell which is in and which is out on a valve that doesn't work? : > Ja Who
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