Anyone here using the IRC

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I have a few questions about the IRC (Internatiomal Residential Code). The way I read it I can use an 1 1/2 vent for the toilet. That is the only thing that I am doing differintly that the UPC. And I have a sump that I am running an 1 1/2 vent for, also. Any comments on the code?
dave
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Sure do ! Venting is used to ' protect_ your_ family.' Methane gas is unhealthy for children and older people.
(Where do you think all these retarded kids and demented old people come from ? Its the reason we have 2 mllion people in prison.)
2" is the minimum then 6" below the roof to 3" through the roof. (VTR) single WC. The math is too complicated to write up in a post, but 1 1/2" is pure stupidity. At freezing temps the vent can become blocked by Hore Frost. (sideway icicles) hence, 3 " . I always use 3" all the way from the WC to VTR.
Its not a ' Toilet ' its a WATER CLOSET !!!! When will you people learn !
shit with all these new codes and Gores environment we'll soon be using Out Houses. What does one do with all the night soil ? Can you drop a brick in the outhouse as a poop saver ?
The international residential code ?? That some United Nations shit ? Sounds un-American to me, you some kind of Commie ? <wood chipper>

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but methane gas is ok for adult men and women?

DAMN!! now i know! I wondered what the problem was!!

atta-boy! break out the chipper again!
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Well, maybe it does make all wimmin nuts too.
Never mix methane gas and Cosmopolitan magazine together. Its an explosive mixture. Axe AW.

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Let me try again. Anyone here use the IRC? I have some questions about it concerning the interpretation. I have a very good understanding of the UPC but am willing to give the IRC a go. I don't plan on second guessing the people that wrote it.
thanks
dave
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Venting is a balance of air pressure. I think if you do not want to get sued, I would second guess this IRC. If you know the UPC great, do the math and see.

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On 17 Jul 2004 02:33:18 GMT, snipped-for-privacy@aol.com (Guitarzoid) wrote:

the rule of thumb is to vent using 1/2 the pipe diameter. Hence, you can vent a 3" pipe with an 1-1/2" vent.
However, you MUST have at least one vent that is 2" in diameter. So if you only have the one toilet, you'll need to vent it with 2" pipe. The sump is supposed to be vented with 2" pipe from the pump all the way to the roof (no studor vents).
The previous code called for a min. 3" vent pipe
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Ok, Lets try the National Bureau of Standards. They put more time into this then all these new groups trying to re-invent the wheel.
An Ejector ,other then pneumatic and works at atmospheric press. and gets its drainage under gravity flow. You use the ejector when the fix. drainage is below the sewer. It has to work the same as a gravity flow sanitary system in moving both air (to vent) and sewage that goes into the pump equaly. This is a basic requirement. L"26 (d5/fq2) In other words stay at 3"for the vent.
Frost Closure; Vent must be 3".
All WC must be a 3" vent , you may go to 2" as its just not practical to use 3", but that 3" still must VTR. You try to keep that WC as close to the stack as you can. Right ? Put a smaller dia. will result in a lawsuit on you. You know what will happen when the vents do not work. Self siphoning, back ups, smell........
The only way to change venting is by increasing the depth of trap-seal then you can have increased venting in length. This does not include WC.

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No, the code allows a 2" vent. You can use a 3" if you want, but it is not required by code. If plumbing is installed to code, there is little worry about a lawsuit. Kinda hard to sue when the plumber is in compliance with prevailing codes.
And NO, you do not put the water closet as close to the vent as possible. Again, code requires that you do not tie into the base of that stack within 10 pipe diameters. Which means if you are running 3" pipe for the WC, you must not tie anything in within 30" because of the hydrostatic current.
The code is NOT a re-invention of the wheel. The prevailing code is the culmination of THOUSANDS of years of trial and error. There is little in the codes that I find to disagree with. And frankly, even if you do disagree, you are still required to install that system to code, not to the specs of the national bureau of standards.
The code book I use is different from the code book others are using because most states have their own interpretation of the code. In my area, frost is not a real problem. We can bury water lines 12" below the surface. Try to buy your water lines at 12" in New Jersey and you'll be digging those lines up and replacing them.
Don't argue with the code. It is the way it is for a reason. Don't deviate from the code. Your local inspector will FAIL YOUR INSPECTION. And your local inspector does not care to hear a single word about the National Bureau of Standards. He's simply going to mark your card FAILED and walk away. That code book is our bible. If it isn't in the code book, I can't enforce it.
The only thing I would change in the code book is that yes, I would personally like to see a return to at least one full-size vent. If for no other reason, it makes access to the system possible through a roof vent. I would also change the code regarding your washer box. I would write the code to require a 3" drain pipe vented with a 2" vent on the washer box (ie, 2" trap dumping into a 3x2x2 tee).
DON'T FUCK WITH THE CODE.
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I agree, but 3" VTR. Reason ; You replace an equal vol. of fluid with an equal vol. of air. 2" is permissible as the center of all fluids in a stack vent is 7/24 of it is air. One 3" vent is required here. Well, if some guy followed a new code to the T and my bathroom was ruined I'd sue him. The Original code we all followed one time did have an out on this, mine still does.

That's only for basements at the bottom of the stack vent. In this case its called hydraulic jump and the distance is 10 x stack dia. The reason for this is yet unknown. You want a WC as close to the 3" vent as can be. You will have no problems later on. Call backs cost money.

I never heard of this international code. I would never use 1 1/2", a dead bird would stop a main sanitary vent. All our codes come from the Bureau of Standards and you can't change physics in any case, many new codes do think they can.
Real codes ( sanitary ) are less than 200 years old. In about 1945 has physics entered into it. Water codes go back to the begining of time. Most was a concern of supply, not health. That's why even the Puritans drank BEER on the Mayflower.

The weather code does run in 25 year cycles, but the hoar frost is becoming a common problem since our weather is changing. Hoar frost closes the vent, it has nothing to do with frost levels. Closure rate can be 1 1/2" in 24 hrs. ( long story )

That's what I said. Don't fuck with it, understand it and the reasons why. Why, because Plumbing is empirical in nature and there often is no reason why. Its based on a combination of physics and time honored work under a Master. Making the code sound complicated allows you to charge more anyway.
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I will trust the guys that wrote the International code. Just because that's the way you always did doesn't make it the only way to do it. If that were true we'd still be using solder with 50 percent lead. A lot of jurisdictions here, (Colorado, USA) have adopted the IRC. It saves money. If I can second guess the code I wouldn't be a plumber. Even the UPC (Uniform Plumbing Code) doesn't call for a continuos 3" VTR.
Dave
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Check again.....one 3" vent stack in every dwelling. Every home in my city still has a solid lead Corp. Cock. Study up on Street Loads over pipe sizes and depth. That 50/50 is another Gore idea same as the stupid so called water saver WC.

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I'm not disagreeing with you on the requirement of a 3" vent stack on every dwelling. However, they recently changed the NC Code where every dwelling must have a 2" vent stack. I personally don't agree with that decision yet.
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Heh...all these people want a 2nd floor laundry, most plummers could not tell you what a Suds Zone is let alone put one in. Then you pull out the old sawzall and the carpenters fall over dead when they see you hacking their wood away and now no 3" Vent ......? That should make for a clean kitchen.

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blackbeard what do you think about no wet venting outside a bathroom group? been told by inspectors its in new code.
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you guys will cause me to drink, you got this guy so fun cused he'll call a plumper.
ans. to question: vent must be 1/2 pipe dia. of drain. A 1-1/2 vent is acceptible if it's piped correctly and dry. 2" min. if wet with max. of 4 fixture units. Each dwelling shall have 1 stack, 3" min. undeminished in size from the building drain up through the roof.
Would be nice to have more info. such as only w/c, second w/c, P/R, bath set, what floor etc.
kenny b
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Bwwwwwaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa!
Errmm.....wus a plumper ?

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3000 gallons of gasoline in the local sewer system last week huh! Where are those house traps when you need them? ;)
kenny b
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That's not so bad, the shooting took place 50 yards from me. I was watching Amanda's ( Carter in the show ) big baby blues on Stargate 1. Then Boom....Boom...Boom....ten cop cars, a fire truck 2 ambulances all because 2 loose bolts get kicked out of a club got mad and shot each other. Looked like allot more with everyone on the ground. I looked, got bored and watched more of Amanda.
--
' I belong to a drinking club with a Motocycle problem '

there is no R in Indian.....!
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new code lets your main vtr be 2 inch,but when i plumb a house it still gets a 3 inch vtr,either at the w/m or m bath
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