Your Preference: Laminate Vs Wood In Bathroom Cabinets

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Jack wrote:

Shelves? Floor? Door? Walls? Storage?
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Cabinets.
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HeyBub wrote:

splash zone of the toilet is not a good idea.
(If I were to spec out a low-upkeep house where cost was no object, the kid and husband bath would be all tile with a floor drain, like a locker room.)
-- aem sends...
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Jack wrote:

flat-panel doors with no joints on outside, the reason being eventual seepage of moisture (splatters and condensation) that will damage wood and finish.
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I have a relative who just bought a home and is having problems with her heat pump.
Equipment is Rheem Outside Model RPMB-036JAZ Inside Unit RCHJ-36A2AS21
In cool mode the unit seems to work fine.
In heat mode the compressor runs for about a minute and trips the over pressure button. I don't have gauges but you can tell from the sound the compressor is making that is working harder and harder until it clicks out on over pressure.
Filters are clean, fans are running and warm air is being circulated for the brief moment the compressor is on.
Does this sound like a common problem that a resident expert could say "It's probably part X and you can expect to spend around $$$ to fix it?
I don't have the knowledge or tools to fix it. Money is a little tight for her after just making a down payment and moving. Also we all live in the Clearwater FL area so heat isn't a show stopper like it is in other parts of the country. Basically I am just hoping to get enough info to tell her to find a good HVAC guy or to tell her it probably isn't worth spending the money on and to just use a couple of space heaters as need be.
Thanx for any advice you can offer.
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Living in NY, we don't have many heat pumps. However, the most expensive part of the system (compressor) is still working. I'd suggest to get out the yellow pages, and call a couple of the companies with smaller ads.
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More backgroound info would be helpful-- did this problem just start this fall, anything done to the unit during the summer etc? An overcharge will cause this problem, as will lower than normal air flow across the indoor coil. FWIW, on Rheem/Ruud heat pumps these seem to be more critical than on some other brands. Granted, part of this is the fact that a lot of others don't even have a high pressure c/o and many of the ones that do have have one that is auto reset, but regardless IMO, they are still a little more finicky than others. I doubt that there are any parts in the unit that are defective, but w/o being there anything is just a guess. If by chance refrigerant was added this past cooling season, overcharge is likely. If that is the case, talk to the company and explain the details-- if they are a reputable outfit, they should come back and check it out , and if that is indeed the problem, fix it at no charge. I know the company I'm with would. Good luck Larry
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On Thu, 27 Nov 2008 09:49:21 -0600, snipped-for-privacy@webtv.net (Lp1331 1p1331) wrote:

Hi Larry: She just bought the house last month and it was a foreclosure so no info is available to us on what has been done before. The a/c did work fine for the last of the cooling season.
Steve
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Sorry but you will need an expert. You could have an overcharged system. You may have a metering device or expansion valve problem. Your high pressure switch could be weak and tripping when it shouldnt Your system could be mismatched (coils). Your indoor fan might not be moving enough air in heat mode Its certainly worth having a "good" tech come in and at least find the problem. Bubba
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wrote:

Thanx, I will let her know to know to find someone. I was hoping this would be the answer instead of finding out it wasn't even worth trying.
Steve
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Steve B. wrote:

about the area.
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Sounds to me like the outdoor checkvalve or metering device is restricted. If that was the problem in this neck of the woods it's going to cost close to $1000.00 to fix (recover refrigerant, sweat out old fitting, install new fitting, install line drier, pull vacum to 500 microns, weigh in factory specified refrigerant charge) . Not worth it if the system is over ten years old.
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Steve B. wrote:

The part numbers indicate a three ton unit. A problem that crops up with heat pumps every now and then is a sticking reversing valve. Someone has already mentioned a clogged orifice and a bad check valve but the culprit may be the reversing valve and the darn things are a real chore to replace.
http://www.toad.net/~jsmeenen/reverse.html
http://www.dhclimatecontrol.com/hp.htm
TDD
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THESE EXPERTS diagnosed mine and I replaced the start capacitor (first service guy/call said I needed a new motor @ $ 230) for $ 2.57 Been working fine since. You'll have a lot of Q&A from previous events to read over and several HVAC guys to choose from to ask YOUR question
http://en.allexperts.com/q/Heating-Air-Conditioning-696 /
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Jack wrote:

(and is) wood for me
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Either one. I'd definately look for the prefinished (inside and out) stock--costs a little more but you're project will complete faster.
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Jack wrote:

Chrome/stainless and glass for me, thanks. Bathrooms, esp. in older houses, tend to be pretty humid places. Given your choices, though, definitely solid wood for the same reasons. Delaminating laminate looks like, well, you know.
nate
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Jack wrote:

Wood in bathroom cabinets because I like wood better.
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