I had a complete York AC/Heating System installed in my house in 2007.
Recently air stopped coming out of the vents even when the fan is set
to On via the thermostat unit. I went in the attic and opened the air
handler unit (Model AHP60D2CH21A) and saw that the squirrel fan's
blades are not rotating. Actually they rotate slowly for a few
moments, then gives up and then tries to start repeatedly. It even
rotates in the wrong direction once in a while! The motor is not
binding as it turns freely. The error LED on the blower relay circuit
board is blinking. I think it is blinking the error code 1 (limit
switch currently open, not in lockout). It blinks slowly on and off
forever without a change in interval. Does this correspond to error
What component is likely to be bad?
2) Starter capacitor
3) Some type of safety switch / thermocouple
4) Circuit board
What things can I check with a volt meter? Thx.
How many eads are going into the motor. If only 2, than the motor is
a simple 120V motor and you can check it with your voltmeter, one lead
is neutral and one is the hot lead. The voltage should go off and on
as someone else turns the fan "on" button on the thermostat off and
on. Ifmore than 2 wires, maybe a startng capacitor has gone open, or
as another poster said, yu have bought the farm and need a new control
to the OP
If all those links you provided ARE for your motor, then it IS an ECM motor.
You are the victum of government beurcorcrates instead of engineers making
Any small savings you may have enjoyed from the slightly better efficency
are about to be given up in higher repair costs.
If I were you, if the motor is a standard form factor I would see if it
could be replaced with a standard PSC motor and maybe an external relay to
control it. A standard PSC motor and relay doesn't have high power
electronics and will stand up to lightning and power surges and will save
After a bit of web surfing, I found out that it is a GE ECM X13 Motor.
Even found a service guide for it!
Yikes, motor cost $800 in 2010.
On Thu, 26 Apr 2012 21:28:45 -0400, email@example.com wrote:
HOWEVER - You only mentioned the 115 volt connections. What about the
low voltage control connection??? There should be a 24 volt AC
connection to terminal C and terminal 1 ( or c and 2, 3,4, or 5
depending on the programming of the motor.
It should have 115 volts on the high voltage connections AT ALL TIMES.
If putting 24 volts AC across C and 1 makes it run you have a control
problem - possibly as simple as a bad control transformer. If putting
power from c-1 does not start the motoer, and from c-2 (or any of the
other numbered terminals) makes it run you have an integrated motor
control problem and the motor will require replacement (or just let it
run at the wrong speed).
On Apr 26, 9:10 pm, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
It turns out to be an ECM 230VAC 1 HP motor. Motor's L1 goes to 120VAC
(1st phase). Motor's L2 goes to 120VAC (2nd phase). To run the motor,
it needs 24 VAC between COM and any one of the following: LO, LO-MED,
MED, MED-HI, HI. All the proper voltages were present at the final
connectors to the motor, so it appears to be a bad motor. I called
York (bought out by Johnson Controls) and their customer service told
me it was still under warranty based on air handler's serial number,
but only a qualified service tech could exchange it for a new motor :
( A Genteq replacement motor (original was a GE) is available to me
for $465 from a local dealer. I guess it will be cheaper for me to pay
for a qualified service tech's labor to avoid the cost of the motor.
That would be the first furnace I've seen that doesn't
have a safety switch on the blower door. I would
think they are required.
I think you mean one goes to hot, the
other to neutral. There is only one phase here.
No. It appears the motor speed is selected via 24VAC
applied between the desired speed terminal and the
common connection. You say you have the service
manual for the motor, so you could verify that. I'd
disconnect all the 24V wires from the motor. Hook up
some temporary wires or jumpers between 24V from
the furnace transformer and Hi terminal and common
terminal. Make sure you have 120V on the line terminals at the motor
and 24V between Hi and common. If the motor doesn't run, it's kaput.
You could repeat the test
with the other speeds.
That would depend on the design of what you have.
Usually it's straightforward and not that difficult. That
motor is one of the high eff ones, so it's going to cost
more, but should still be a lot less than $800. If they
want to hose you, it's possible another similar motor
could be used.
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