"Some Guy" wrote
Difference is, I'll go with dignity.
Check the flickr photos I posted here and see what you think then.
Steve
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"Some Guy" wrote
I can see you missed the word "caliche" in my post, and have absolutely no real world experience with that, either.
For your enlightment and entertainment:
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A fool shows his annoyance at once, but a prudent man overlooks an insult.
Quite nice!
But if you'd gone with a HF tarp and some clothesline, you could have saved on the concrete.
Jim [damn I wish you were in NY so I could trade sweat for welding lessons]
It looks like industrial construction. Not what I'd want attached to my house. But if that's what you need to do if you live in a desert...
If there's a poured concrete pad under this patio, then I would think you could have just as well put in an anchor plate with bolts under the pad before the pour, and connect your posts to the bolts. Throw in some rebar around / over the anchor plate just to give the concrete more strength in that area.
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I admit I've shared the occasional thing on here but overall I'd say not very much. What did I build that was stupid?
Won't it be a challenge to get anything close to the same shear resistance in your plate attachments to an existing piece of sidewalk as you will have in your posts embedded in concrete cylinders?
How about a smaller concrete cylinder with a nice wooden circular bench on top of it? Cheaper, less work, and more attractive than concrete. Plus you get some leg room under it. Appropriately stained with solid stain suitable for your harsh environment. Just a thought.
You could reduce the concrete volume by defining a space inside - maybe a smaller sonotube with plywood lid. Lot less moving heavy weight, and portland dust isn't nice. Rebar would anchor the poles.
"bud--" wrote
Upon closer reexamination of the project, I have decided to use a 18" strip of concrete along one wall to rest plates on, and to do the Sonotobe bases on the other two sides. This is in a recess in the back of my house, and I will have to back in the mixer with the ATV. I think for this one, I shall just use bags, and not schlep all that heavy other stuff in there.
My main question, which you and only a couple of others was how fast can I mix and pour this so I don't come up with a layered pour. Yes, I will weld some rebar to the poles, as always.
Thanks.
Steve
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A fool shows his annoyance at once, but a prudent man overlooks an insult.
"Smitty Two" wrote
I have seen larger carport structures than this go flying, and I mean up twenty feet or more. It was because they used 3 x 3 x .120" tubing, and didn't really put any washes around the base, or just asphalted next to them. Over time, they rusted off at the base. I have seen a lot of big stuff go boom, and am a thorough believer of building something three times stronger than you need, especially if it is something that will kill someone.
Steve
visit my blog at
A fool shows his annoyance at once, but a prudent man overlooks an insult.
You apparently didn't really look at the pictures. On the one edge, that is what I did, putting three base plates. On the outside, where the ground is caliche, I used the massive concrete bases. And yes, I did use plenty of rebar welded to the bottom of the posts, and yes, I am a welder, and yes, I am certified. Even underwater.
I do not think it looks industrial at all. What, should I have used some of that aluminum crap like they use on "trailers" that a kid with a tricycle can dent? That surely would have gone flying. We've had some 70 mph winds since I built this, and there's not a loose screw to be found.
Yes, we live in the country, and I built it to last, to stay, but more because I will never have to paint or maintain it in my lifetime. The Fabral sheets have 11 layers of stuff on them, and the red purlins have two coats of heavy industrial enamel, plus the coatings that come on them from the factory. It's up, and I don't have to ever touch it again.
YMMV, and probably does
Steve
visit my blog at
A fool shows his annoyance at once, but a prudent man overlooks an insult.
To answer a question you have asked twice now with no answer. We poured a wall using 7- 80 pound bags of enriched Sakrete, mixed one at a time with no breaks and the wall bonded and was one pour.
We used a very slightly drier pour on the upmost level and a slightly wetter pour on the bottom 3 bags. I have done this more than once and it seems to work well.
In your case I would have the multiple batches measured out and ready to go, especially if you are doing this alone.
I answered that in my post on Wed. at 8:55 am EST in this thread.
I said that I can mix and place 8 batches before I notice that the first batch is setting.
Each batch is 1.2 cubic feet (about 175 lbs).
You basically have about 2 hours, maybe 2.5 hours, to vibrate or consolidate the first batch before it's too late. If it's at or above
80F ambient temperature, then figure on 2 hours. Even if your using cold water. I use Eukon 37 (super-P) in my batches. I don't know if that slows or accelerates the setting time, but it reduces the water.If you vibrate every 4 batches, then there's really no limit as to how tall a pier you can make because the concrete that is setting as well as the wet concrete above it will have already been compacted and consolodated.
I answered it on Wed. And again just now.
Yes. And having a vibrator is highly recommended:
This is what I have:
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