Yet another concrete question

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Steve B wrote:

It looks like industrial construction. Not what I'd want attached to my house. But if that's what you need to do if you live in a desert...
If there's a poured concrete pad under this patio, then I would think you could have just as well put in an anchor plate with bolts under the pad before the pour, and connect your posts to the bolts. Throw in some rebar around / over the anchor plate just to give the concrete more strength in that area.
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You apparently didn't really look at the pictures. On the one edge, that is what I did, putting three base plates. On the outside, where the ground is caliche, I used the massive concrete bases. And yes, I did use plenty of rebar welded to the bottom of the posts, and yes, I am a welder, and yes, I am certified. Even underwater.
I do not think it looks industrial at all. What, should I have used some of that aluminum crap like they use on "trailers" that a kid with a tricycle can dent? That surely would have gone flying. We've had some 70 mph winds since I built this, and there's not a loose screw to be found.
Yes, we live in the country, and I built it to last, to stay, but more because I will never have to paint or maintain it in my lifetime. The Fabral sheets have 11 layers of stuff on them, and the red purlins have two coats of heavy industrial enamel, plus the coatings that come on them from the factory. It's up, and I don't have to ever touch it again.
YMMV, and probably does
Steve
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I have seen larger carport structures than this go flying, and I mean up twenty feet or more. It was because they used 3 x 3 x .120" tubing, and didn't really put any washes around the base, or just asphalted next to them. Over time, they rusted off at the base. I have seen a lot of big stuff go boom, and am a thorough believer of building something three times stronger than you need, especially if it is something that will kill someone.
Steve
visit my blog at http://cabgbypasssurgery.com watch for the book
A fool shows his annoyance at once, but a prudent man overlooks an insult.
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To answer a question you have asked twice now with no answer. We poured a wall using 7- 80 pound bags of enriched Sakrete, mixed one at a time with no breaks and the wall bonded and was one pour.
We used a very slightly drier pour on the upmost level and a slightly wetter pour on the bottom 3 bags. I have done this more than once and it seems to work well.
In your case I would have the multiple batches measured out and ready to go, especially if you are doing this alone.
--
Colbyt
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Colbyt wrote:

I answered it on Wed. And again just now.

Yes. And having a vibrator is highly recommended:
This is what I have:
http://tinyurl.com/29v7qxy
Made by Wyco.
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1/8" high-- you might want to go with taller sonotubes.<g>
-snip-

I've go tone of those. $50, 25 years ago from a retired mason. Strong, simple 7 not likely to blow away if the wind picks up. [downside is that I need to take it apart to get it up and down the basement stairs which I do every couple of years.
Mine mixes a batch of 2gal cement, 4 sand & 6 #2crushed stone with ease. [more than that & I have trouble dumping it.]

I'd measure the cement and aggregate with a bit more precision-- and leave the water to guesswork after the first load. [if you need to order the sand & gravel for just this job- you might want to check the price of premixed bags.] Someone mentioned their technique in the thread on weighing ingredients. I do the same.

Shouldn't be a problem. I'll tell you, the best $90 I ever spent at HarborFreight was for their Donkey dick. Aside from getting to say 'Donkey dick' & making loads of jokes about giant vibrators-- it cuts the grunt work to a minimum and does a much better job than I was ever able to do various mixing methods. http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-hp-concrete-vibrator-34923.html
With your sonotubes- after the second pour, just dip that puppy in there for about 3 seconds in 3-4 spots & you'll blend the works together.
Jim [oh- yeah. The morning after this job when you look down at your fore-arms & they are all black& blue. . . It is where you were resting the bucket before you dumped it in the mixer. coumadin will do that to you.<g>]
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wrote:

The posts are .120" wall thickness. They will be about ten feet tall. I have used commercial vibrators when working as a formsetter, and we set some big forms. They work wonders. If you've ever poured much concrete, you know that no matter how much you poke and prod, you still will have noticeable substantial voids. The vibrators take care of that. Right now, I'm dealing with some fire ant bites in my coumadin experience. Insect bites are nasty things now, and take a long time to heal.
Thanks for your input.
Steve
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I don't see why you couldn't. Also are you planning to put any rebar in the concrete ? Concrete by its self is not very strong.
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Yes. I have done these of various sizes, and weld rebar on to the pole to get a better grip.
Steve
visit my blog at http://cabgbypasssurgery.com watch for the book
A fool shows his annoyance at once, but a prudent man overlooks an insult.
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Steve B wrote:

You could reduce the concrete volume by defining a space inside - maybe a smaller sonotube with plywood lid. Lot less moving heavy weight, and portland dust isn't nice. Rebar would anchor the poles.
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Upon closer reexamination of the project, I have decided to use a 18" strip of concrete along one wall to rest plates on, and to do the Sonotobe bases on the other two sides. This is in a recess in the back of my house, and I will have to back in the mixer with the ATV. I think for this one, I shall just use bags, and not schlep all that heavy other stuff in there.
My main question, which you and only a couple of others was how fast can I mix and pour this so I don't come up with a layered pour. Yes, I will weld some rebar to the poles, as always.
Thanks.
Steve
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Steve B wrote:

I answered that in my post on Wed. at 8:55 am EST in this thread.
I said that I can mix and place 8 batches before I notice that the first batch is setting.
Each batch is 1.2 cubic feet (about 175 lbs).
You basically have about 2 hours, maybe 2.5 hours, to vibrate or consolidate the first batch before it's too late. If it's at or above 80F ambient temperature, then figure on 2 hours. Even if your using cold water. I use Eukon 37 (super-P) in my batches. I don't know if that slows or accelerates the setting time, but it reduces the water.
If you vibrate every 4 batches, then there's really no limit as to how tall a pier you can make because the concrete that is setting as well as the wet concrete above it will have already been compacted and consolodated.
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