Wood splitter question

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I am going to get a wood splitter. Just how much HP do I need. I will be splitting juniper, pine, and quakies.
I have seen splitters mostly powered by 5hp Honda motors. Is this just the standard, or is it a reliable setup? What would you buy? Are the ones at Home Depot and big box stores any good? Do I need to spend a little more and get a higher quality splitter? Horizontal? Horizontal/vertical? Brands of hydraulic pumps? Types of hoses?
Advice appreciated.
Steve
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Steve B wrote:

Steve, Much of what you ask is not really answerable, except eventually by you. Depends most on your situation and your value-weighting-factors. Or ... you could DAGS?
WTF are "quakies"? I hope not Quakers.
5hp can be quite adequate, depending on other aspects of design. I'd much prefer any Honda engine to cheapie B&S.
Rather than buying anything, I'd continue to use 6lb maul I've used for 30 yrs. I've used and sold various hydraulic splitters in years past, and prefer the maul. New handle maybe every 4 years- buzz and burn the old piece of hickory.
J
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"Quakies" probably is "Quaking aspen".
--
Jim McLaughlin

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Jim McLaughlin wrote:

I was hoping so, thus a minor attempt to raise consciousness to possible insularity (ancient and honorable 'murican tradition.) :')
Aside: too bad OP has such lousy fuel-wood available!
J
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Aside:
It's free. Much cheaper than the gas to go to another state for "good" wood.
Steve
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Steve B wrote:

Yep, that's why I burn Willow. All I want within 15 miles of the house vice having to literally go into another state for better and 100 miles away.
Harry K
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snipped-for-privacy@sme-online.com wrote in

I always thought those shit woods loaded the chimney up with creasote real fast.
Even having the chimney/pipe cleaned frequenly I guess could be easily be offset by the free wood factor. But...I have personally seen a chimney fire wich fortunately was contained before the house caught fire.
I was doing some roofing and heard this loud freight train woosh across the street. I didn't realize a creasote fire made that kind of noise. Like I said, it was contained because the fire dept showed up quick. The owner stood by helpless as the fireman got up on the roof with the hose and opened it up down the chimney. I cannot imagine what the inside of that place looked like afterwards.
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They do. But what else ya gonna use if that's all that's available?
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They do have a dry system for chimney fires.
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This was around 1981 in VA.
Wonder how they get that dry stuff to go in? It was shooting a flame out the top with pressure like a furnace or something. That's what was causing the wooshing. Obviously they have it figured out.
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As a local volunteer firefighter told us, it's a "stick" they toss in the fireplace. The heat causes the "stick" to give of a lot of non-flammable gas that totally smothers the fire. As long as it hasn't spread outside of the chimney yet....
--
Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est
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snipped-for-privacy@nortelnetworks.com (Chris Lewis) wrote in

Cool. Thanks for the reply.
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Al Bundy wrote:

That is the old wives tail for sure. You won't find anyone burning the 'shit woods' who will be spreading it, nor will anyone spread it who burns -any- wood for serious.
Creosote is caused by burning green wood and burning 'dirty' fires. Yes, some softwoods (pine for example) will produce more creasote but nothing that is a hazard. Clean your chimney once or twice a season (no matter what wood you burn), burn clean and burn seasoned wood and it doesn't matter what type of wood you are using.
If it weren't for the 'shit woods', a great part of the continent wouldn't be able to burn wood at all as that is all that is available.

Very good description of a chimney fire.
Harry K
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Or not getting the fire temperature up high enough.

Quaking aspen is a reasonably good firewood, just doesn't last very long and is sometimes difficult to get running hot enough.
As one person put it, pound for pound, given equivalent drying, all firewood is virtually identical in terms of heat output.
Quaking aspen is quite light, so you have to use a lot of it.
Most of our firewood tends to be spruce, pine or aspen. Which we leaven with heavier stuff (maple, birch and ash). No big creosote problems with a wood stove.
--
Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est
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I used to love splitting wood with a maul, until I blew out my shoulders.
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I have had three shoulder surgeries, including one Munford.
I now will take the pushbutton hydraulic version of a young strong foolish man.
Steve
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wrote

What's a Munford?
Shoulder surgery was reccommended, but I'm not bad enough yet. I know what I can do and can't do, that helps.
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Steve B wrote:

I own a splitter which uses the 5hp honda. It works great and I have used it often. It has plenty of power to split the toughest wood. The only reason to buy one larger is if you want to split wood faster. A larger splitter would likely have a shorter cycle time than the 5hp. I will no longer use a maul because of an injured shoulder.
Mine is one which can be used horizontal or vertical. I have rarely used the vertical splitter so I don't think you need it. the only time I have used it is when i had a piece so large that I couldn't lift it up on the machine. With the machine in the vertical mode you can just roll the stump up underneath the tool, no lifting.
The vertical option is a hassle to use regularly. this is because the split wood is constantly getting in the way of the next piece. with the horizontal option the wood just falls onto the ground out of the way. when the pieces get up to the height of the splitter it is time to take a break from splitting and move those pieces onto a pallet or to stack in their final location.
The only thing I didnt' like about the splitter is that I had to assemble it. try to get yours assembled and ready to tow if you can. It will be worth any assembly fee that is charged.
Lawrence
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I'd not buy a splitter without the vertical option. Why lift when you can roll? With a couple of coordinated people, you can split rapidly. A teenaged helper takes the wood away as fast as it is split.
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Edwin Pawlowski wrote:

I for sure wouldn't want to run a verticle except for the great big stuff. Who wants to bend way down there to position each and every stick. You may be running the controls but someone has to do the stoop labor.
Harry K
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