I try to avoid things that use batteries, but I still have a bunch,
and I've only had one or two alkalines leak, both in the same device
at the same time. Carbon-zinc definitely leaked more often, but with
flashlights I figured if I left the light on, I'd only waste cheaper
I've bought foreign batteries at hamfests, one batch so cheap they
leaked within weeks of being put in something (without damage,
somehow) so I threw them all away. (They were in the fridge until I
used them. One gave hints of leaking, iirc, while still in the
fridge, but theese were verrrry cheap.)
In another situation at a hamfest, the guy next to me noticed how
light the "alkaline" batteries were, and he was right, they were too
light to be alkaline.
Finally, in the past year, I bought some "Duracell"s at a price that
seemed too low, and eventually noticed that the small circle that's
supposed to have an R or TM inside had nothing but a dot inside.
Maybe it t also didn't say "alkaline", which is what makes it a
Duracell as opposed to some other type battery.
You have to get the batteries out? I don't know but isn't it more
convincing when the batteries are stuck inside?
IIUC what it says on the batteries, they will pay for a flashlight of
something of similar cost if flashlight batteries (carbon-zinc) leak,
and they'll pay more money for something electronic if alkaline leak.
And there are probably other rules for other kinds of batteries.
Makes sense to me.
I'm finally reading the manual for my fancy camera, and it gives
several reasons why rechargeables won't have power as long as one
would want. Not using them for a long time was one. (I can find the
list if you want.) Maybe it's not true and they just don't want
people complaining to them, the camera company, when it probably is
either normal or a battery problem.
I've seen pics of those, but so far mine have been real Duracells, and
I've had them leak too.
Well if you can't get them out, you have to remember what brand they
were to find out where to send them. Sometimes you can tell, sometimes
it is not obvious.
Rechargeable batteries have a lower nominal voltage than alkalines, for
some things this is a problem, for others it is not, and more things
these days are made with rechargeable batteries in mind. In my own
experience, they last longer in things like cameras, but it depends on
the nature of the load. The big advantage is when they go dead, you pop
them in the charger and use them again over and over, I'd be perfectly
willing to sacrifice some run time for that. Environmentally better than
tossing out piles of dead alkalines as well.
Oh, yeah. You're right.
They should mark the brand on the ends too. It's probably a sleezy
trick by the makers to avoid paying out when they leak.
Yeah, the AA are 1.2 volts and the batteries-in-camera plug-in charger
(not included) is supposed to be 5 volts for 4 of them. If I
eventually try to use these in a penlight, I don't suppose they will
work. Not enough voltage.
I don't remember how dead they were when I stopped using the camera
last Jan. or Feb, but on election day, they were totally dead. They
seemed to charge up fine but I haven't tried to use them or to measure
The other set, in the fridge since last January, were still 1.24 or
1.26 volts when I took them out last week.
They do, and so do conventional NiMH batteries, but there is a new breed
that does not suffer from this problem. Look up Sanyo Eneloop, there are
a number of clones, known as low self discharge, hybrid, etc. I've been
using mostly Eneloops in my stuff and they live up to their claims, and
will hold roughly 85% charge over a year of sitting. I've heard some
others are about the same, only ones I've had any real negative
experience with were Tenergy, they're cheap, but worthless.
I don't think that describes mine, even though mine kept their charge
for 9 or 10 months in the fridge. I bought them a year ago. I don't
know if that is older than the new breed. This is all it says on the
They are GP2000 series, made in Malaysia, product of Gold Peak Group,
200AAHC, 1.2V typical 1950mAH
Standard charge 16 hours at 190ma.
I bought the camera and the batteries while traveling, not in America.
On Sun, 14 Dec 2008 00:00:02 -0500, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
OTOH all I know is that they didn't lose a charge in the last 10 or 11
I bought the camera about a year ago, and only used it daily for about
2 weeks, and then a day or two 2 weeks later. I'm not sure I ran this
set of batteries down more than once. (Because when i bought a
separate recharger, I ended up with two sets.
So I still don't know how many times I'll be able to recharge them,
and I'll never know, because this is not the kind of thing I'll
remember. And since I ended up buying a second smaller, cheaper
digital camera, that I use far more often, with a different kind of
battery, I may only charge these AA batteries once a year and if they
only last say 4 charges, i won't know if that is because they weren't
good batteries or because they're 4 years old.
Now if they take 10 full charges over ten years, I guess we'd all call
them good, but I won't be able to tell you that for another 9 years.
Unless he had a generator and a trouble light.<g>
Flashlights are still handy- but I was glad there was a plug in
shoplight right by my panel when I jury rigged mine up last Saturday.
Just got power back last night. Felt kinda weird working in the
entrance panel box with 120 light from the generator.
Another caution that I might have skimmed over as I've read this
thread--- [and why the double pole double throw switch is a good
idea. Make damn sure you don't leave any connection back to the
grid. Not only will it fry your generator if the power comes back-
it creates a dangerous situation for the guys working on the lines.
You could probably do that, but you seem to be saying you don't have a
transfer switch, making such an arrangement against code because you
don't mention anything about preventing backfeeds. What you might use
safely would be a double pole, triple throw (off in center) switch for
I think if you check with your local code enforcement office though
you will find that only a transfer switch and probably a separate
outdoor disconnect point is acceptable.
If you already have a transfer switch and the only problem is exactly
as stated, then a switch as described would suffice nicely. They're
also fairly common switches, especially if you live around any farmland.
I picked one up from Agway in fact. Mostly you just need to be sure the
switch goes through an open ckit on the way from one connection to the
other. Most switches are of the make before break types, meaning they
temporarily connect BOTH sources for an instant as the switch is thrown.
Middle-off is an easy way to avoid that. Besides, you also need a
disconnect method, and the middle off provides that, too.
How the heck do you get a backfeed when you unplug something from one
power supply and plug it into another one?
What he has is a double pole, Infinite throw,break before make,
manually operated switch. Can't get better backfeed protection than
On Sat, 13 Dec 2008 17:31:10 -0500, email@example.com wrote:
I have been in discussions with inspectors about this and the only
real NEC violation with a cord and plug connected furnace motor is the
manufacturer's installation instructions don't say you can do it.
On the other hand I have never seen instructions that specifically
said you couldn't. If you said you were doing this to make the blower
easier to service, THAT is legal.
Considering the other alternatives I do not see this as the most
unsafe option. Keep the pigtail with the cord and plug as short as
possible to minimize the damage potential, use a good "hard service"
cord with a proper cord grip on the blower end and a molded plug and
"rock on" IMHO.
Impossible isn't what it's about. POSSIBLE is what it's about, and to
use a generator, you need a transfer switch. What I think I left out is
that his local code enforcement office is going to have the final word
on the subject; that is where he has to check. If they allow it, it's
legal. If not, it's not. It's easy to call & ask rather than put up
with rhetoric in places like this. He's going to need a transfer switch
that guarantees never backfeeding; nothing guarantess he won't hook it
up in a manner that could backfeed, whether he intended to or not.
Plus, he's not the only soul on earth that might use the generator -
they don't accept taht as an arguement. Only positive situations are
allowed, not promises.
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