Winterizing trailers

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On 9/28/2012 9:13 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:

empty. Here at the house, I have a macerator/pump to pump the tanks uphill to the septic tank clean out opening. If you have a sewer connection, gravity does a nice job. Also, if there is a fresh water tank, it must be emptied. If the units stay in the same place all year with connected water, the tank is probably empty. As for the water heater, you 1st operate the bypass valve and then pull the drain plug. It empties faster if you pop open the over pressure valve. Now you pump the pink antifreeze into all the water lines. I use the on-board pump, which is usually used to pressurize the water system when using the on-board water tank (now empty). I have a short length of hose that connects to the input of the pump. Normally, it connected to the fresh water tank, but you have to disconnect that. One end of the hose has a fitting for the input of the pump, the other end is just cut clean. The cut end goes into the jug of pink RV anti-freeze. You then enable the pump on the RV control panel and run every faucet, both hot and cold, until the pink comes out. The jug might have to be elevated a bit the get the pump to prime. Don't forget the toilet and any outside hand shower. Make sure enough of the pink stuff goes into each sink/show's trap. Alternately, you can pour a cup or so, into each trap, right from the jug. The toilet doesn't have a trap, so you only need to make sure the pink stuff fills the water pipe.
As my unit is a motor home, and because I use the generator as a backup for the house, I have a full 50 gallons of gas in the tank and it should be treated with a fuel stabilizer. And, again, because the generator might be used for emergency, the oil will be changed .... probably tomorrow. I like to put a battery tender on the house battery to keep it healthy. I don't let the normal power converter on, because some of them tend to over charge the house battery. Also, because it is a motor home, I have a 2nd battery tender on the vehicle battery. I also turn off the propane tank. I think that's it.
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Thanks, that looks like the complete list. I'm not sure if these units have water heaters, or if they have holding tanks. maybe? Needs a lot more research. They do have shore power, water hookup, and sewage drain tubes.
Careful to use good quality battery tenders. I had a float charger from Harbor Freight kill a marine battery, one time. No fun at all.
Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org .
Just did mine yesterday. I made sure the black and gray tanks were empty. Here at the house, I have a macerator/pump to pump the tanks uphill to the septic tank clean out opening. If you have a sewer connection, gravity does a nice job. Also, if there is a fresh water tank, it must be emptied. If the units stay in the same place all year with connected water, the tank is probably empty. As for the water heater, you 1st operate the bypass valve and then pull the drain plug. It empties faster if you pop open the over pressure valve. Now you pump the pink antifreeze into all the water lines. I use the on-board pump, which is usually used to pressurize the water system when using the on-board water tank (now empty). I have a short length of hose that connects to the input of the pump. Normally, it connected to the fresh water tank, but you have to disconnect that. One end of the hose has a fitting for the input of the pump, the other end is just cut clean. The cut end goes into the jug of pink RV anti-freeze. You then enable the pump on the RV control panel and run every faucet, both hot and cold, until the pink comes out. The jug might have to be elevated a bit the get the pump to prime. Don't forget the toilet and any outside hand shower. Make sure enough of the pink stuff goes into each sink/show's trap. Alternately, you can pour a cup or so, into each trap, right from the jug. The toilet doesn't have a trap, so you only need to make sure the pink stuff fills the water pipe.
As my unit is a motor home, and because I use the generator as a backup for the house, I have a full 50 gallons of gas in the tank and it should be treated with a fuel stabilizer. And, again, because the generator might be used for emergency, the oil will be changed .... probably tomorrow. I like to put a battery tender on the house battery to keep it healthy. I don't let the normal power converter on, because some of them tend to over charge the house battery. Also, because it is a motor home, I have a 2nd battery tender on the vehicle battery. I also turn off the propane tank. I think that's it.
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When I acquired my old trailer last year, I was getting familiar with it. In the spring I took out the battery, which was way beyond end of life. I did not want o put a new one in. Everything works ok so far. I would figure many trailers have batteries that really need attention if one expects useful life. The power supply runs the propane heater, misc. Lights, and the pump. Without battery.
Greg
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The camp ground that called me, has 110 volt hook ups to the trailers, and maybe 220 volt big camper plugs. I doubt I'll find any storage batteries. Maybe, but who can tell? That's something I will need to check. Thank you.
Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org .
When I acquired my old trailer last year, I was getting familiar with it. In the spring I took out the battery, which was way beyond end of life. I did not want o put a new one in. Everything works ok so far. I would figure many trailers have batteries that really need attention if one expects useful life. The power supply runs the propane heater, misc. Lights, and the pump. Without battery.
Greg
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On 9/29/2012 7:35 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:

the road, you really can run all the lights, fridge (for control), furnace on the converter. My fridge needs 12 volts when on the road for control, while using propane to cool the inside (absorption type). That brings up something I forgot. If there are batteries, their water level should be checked and topped off with distilled water, if needed. Also, if the fridge is on, it should be opened and left to dry out. Otherwise it becomes a large mold incubator.
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One of these days, probably Monday. I've got to get out and check a lot of things. Do they have holding tanks? Do they have marine battery? Do they have refrigerators? So many things I need to know, before making a guestimate price estimate. Thank you for the very good ideas.
Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org .
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I thought they all had batteries, however, I guess if you never go on the road, you really can run all the lights, fridge (for control), furnace on the converter. My fridge needs 12 volts when on the road for control, while using propane to cool the inside (absorption type). That brings up something I forgot. If there are batteries, their water level should be checked and topped off with distilled water, if needed. Also, if the fridge is on, it should be opened and left to dry out. Otherwise it becomes a large mold incubator.
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My guy does it for $40 , just the water stuff. Through the campsite, a little more.
Greg
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Plus antifreeze.
Greg
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On 9/29/2012 4:35 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:

Paul
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On Sat, 29 Sep 2012 14:01:44 -0700, Paul Drahn

ANYTHING on 12 volts. There ARE some that uses real "travel trailers" that do.
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Maybe today.
Greg
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wrote:

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I have a 1988 park model hyline. Originally had gas refrigerator. Has 12 volt propane heater, gas water heater, as well as 120 volt 1000 watt element. Battery, battery power supply, misc 12 volt lighting, and 120 volt lighting. 12 volt water pump. It's 33 feet, but I guess there could be a need if you were on the move. I bought it, and will never move it, unless I win lottery.
I have various equipment manuals, but don't have the trailer manual, just a simple flyer.
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You know, these don't get moved very often. They may possibly have break away switches. I don't know, for sure. One more thing to check. Thank you.
Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org .
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If they have break-away switches, they have one or more battery!!!
Paul
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On Fri, 28 Sep 2012 09:13:08 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"

keep vermin out. If there are several close together $35 to $50 each would do it.
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Went to the camp, spent about an hour and a half, looking.
At least one has a black water tank. My guy said soeme thing about fill the tank up, and then dump it all at once, to try and wash the crap out. I've got some green holding tank fluid, I wonder if it's a good idea to put some green stuff and water in, one day. Come back the next day and pull the drain valve open, and send it all flying down the drain.
They have been putting a new diaper into the fridge and freezer, to dessicate and deodorize. Ever heard of this?
They have five trailers, looks like work on them for two days. The anode seems to be needing a 1 1/8 socket, to drain the W.H.
We figure to top off the propane in the spring, close the tank valves for the winter.
Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org .
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Only thing I have to say, nice to have an anode like that. My drain is a twister like on a car radiator. Anode is way in back top. I'm sure I have a magnesium anode, because it makes the water stinky and funky. It might very well be original, 24 years old.
Greg
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After 24 years of stinking up your water, your anode is probably mostly gone away. I'd wonder how to check, see if it's still there.
Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org .
Only thing I have to say, nice to have an anode like that. My drain is a twister like on a car radiator. Anode is way in back top. I'm sure I have a magnesium anode, because it makes the water stinky and funky. It might very well be original, 24 years old.
Greg
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I would have to unscrew from rear. Afraid it might break something. Some go to aluminum anode. Magnesium promotes growth of bacteria making sulfur smelling water. If tank is not kept at at least 135 degrees. 140 will kill the bacteria, but still stinks. Have to flush first.
Greg
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Fact that it stinks, means I still some anode left, but my water comes from untreated well.
Greg
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