Window track needed for pole barn


I am building a pole barn and have a small wooden window to install. This is a horse barn, and windows must be high or they are dangerous to the horses. The window will be 16 inches below the roof, but it cant hinge inward or some of the larger horses could still hit their head on it and get hurt or bust the window off the hinges.
This is a steel pole barn with 2x6 framing nailed flat against the poles and covered with the steel sheets. The window is 1 1/4 inch thick, so it could easily slide between the 2x6s and a sliding window is preferred since it wont be in the way or get broken.
My question is what do they sell that I can use for tracks. Just sliding it on the 2x6 edges would leave a real loose fit and the window would probably jam against the ribs in the steel siding. Do they make something for this use? Or is there something else I can use?
Thanks
Mark
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
How about a pocket door hardware kit, or even a bi-pass closet door track and hardware. I'm going to put a cover for my vent pan on barn-door tracks but only because I have a spare set, it is serious overkill.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
snipped-for-privacy@UNLISTED.com wrote:

Hardware for a sliding barn door? Overkill but cheap & strong.
--
Free men own guns - www.geocities/CapitolHill/5357/

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Wed, 15 Nov 2006 13:40:47 -0600, snipped-for-privacy@UNLISTED.com wrote:

How weathertight does it have to be? I should think you'd be better off mounting the window on the outside, on a hooded-rail like a miniature rolling door.
Was it here, or on misc.rural a few year back that someone was complaining about one of their horses putting a hoof through a sheet-metal barn and screwing itself up so much it had to be put down?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Goedjn wrote:

I agree there really ought to be something else interior wall than simply 26 ga steel sheathing
In our barn, the windows are at normal height, framed w/ conventional sill and simply slide between the 2x6 studs w/ a screwed-in stop rail and then the opening is covered w/ a framed heavy screen. During the 60+ yrs it was still used as horse/mule/milking barn, never any problem.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

This usenet is weird. The post where the person said about "horses putting a hoof through........... " never showed up on here, but it's quoted in this posting.....
ANyhow, I fully agree, and I NEVER leave the barn with just steel sides. I put 5/8 or 3/4 inch plywood from the ground up at least 3 feet. Above that there is really no problem with just tin siding. I never had a horse get a leg caught in the siding, but I did have a goat do this, and the leg was pretty cut up. The goat did heal and survive, but aftert that I put plywood all the way around the base of the walls.
My window is well above that. The bottom of it is about 6 feet off the ground and the window is something like 32 inches long and 18 wide. It's actually a 3 pane basement window, but it will be ideal for the barn. I got some of that fiberglass siding right under the roof in a few places for light, but want a window for summer ventilation.
I suppose I could slide it right on the wood, if only there was a way to keep it snug. The 2x6s are a full 2 inches thick (local saw mill). The window is 1 1/4 inches. I want a fairly snug fit. I like a non-drafty barn in winter. Actually I got all winter to think about this, because it starting to get real cold outdoors and I just sided that wall today, and went right over the window for now. Just want to get the building closed up. I can always unscrew that sheet of steel next summer and deal with the window.
Maybe one of the welding shops in town would have an aluminum channel of sorts too??????
Thanks
Mark
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
snipped-for-privacy@UNLISTED.com wrote:

Just glue a 3/4" 1x4 to the window to make it 2" ;)
--
Free men own guns - www.geocities/CapitolHill/5357/

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
You can order vinyl-framed slider windows any size you want from a lumber yard. I have four of them in the rear of my concrete block garage, 16x32 inch to fit a two by two block gap. They are about 1.5 inches thick and have a nailing flange all around.
Ken

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
You could get U-channel metal 1.5 inches wide to attach top and bottom of the space between your girts for the window to slide in. Alternatively, get 3/4 inch angle iron from a welding shop and use it to make a channel. --Ken

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.