I just discovered that a few years ago, my wife drilled into the vertical
drain pipe (Sch. 40) coming down from our upstairs bathroom.
Apparently, she tried hanging a toilet paper holder in the 1st floor powder
room and had trouble geting the screw in, so she patched the hole in the
drywall and moved it over several inches.
I noticed a slight dampness around the patch and cut it open and found the
hole in the pipe. The damage wasn't too bad - a few inch square piece of
drywall over a few years of the hole being there, so it can't be leaking
Anyway, is there a way to fix this hole without cutting out the section of
the pipe and coupling in a new piece? Doing that would require removing
much more drywall, which I don't want to do if I don't have to.
Is there anything that can be used to fill the hole or wrap the pipe?
Probably a dozen ways that will work. How big is the hole? If it is a very
small hole, a short screw with some sealer will do. Put a rubber washer
under the screw head, spread some silicone adhesive and screw it in. Don't
use a long screw as you don't want paper catching on it as it passes inside
Cut a piece of a PVC connector that is the same size as used on the pipe.
This will have the same curve and fit over top snugly. Using the proper PVC
pipe adhesive, glue the patch over top.
Epoxy putty is made for this kind of fix. It comes in a stick. You
cut/break off a small piece, knead it to mix the epoxy, and stick it on
the hole. Wait five minutes. Done! It even works on active leaks.
The epoxy putty sticks are available for a few bucks in the plumbing
department at the local big box store. You can also find it at auto parts
stores, hardware stores, etc. Handy stuff to have around.
Ron DeBlock N2JSO
If God had meant for Man to see the sunrise,
I'm liking the glue a section of connector over it suggestion myself.
Before i saw that, I was going to suggest making a filler putty from
pvc dust (from sanding/cutting/fileing) and pvc glue.
I've read of this technique being used as a gap filler/patch in low
Ich habe keine Ahnung was das bedeutet, oder vielleicht doch?
After reading all the replies on this
topic, here's mine. I'd use
liquid nails. Years ago I had a problem
where the plasitic pipe
connects to the cast iron connection at
the basement floor.
When the sewers back up, it would ooz
through the yocum (sp?).
I cleaned the area with a wire-wheel and
built up a connection
of liquid nails. It's still tight today
after some 10-15 years.
My backup problem is rather simple.
There is a lift station about a 1/2
block from my house. Many houses on
that same lift pump are higher
than me. All of the houses between me
and the lift pump do not have
basements. So, only a few houses around
me have this problem. I
have a stopper in the floor drain, so
the water will back up into the
plumbing system. The last real big
storm yielded water within an inch
of the top of the laundry tub in the
basement. It oozed from the plastic/cast
iron connection and also from the trap
in the laundry tub. The town has
now "fixed" the problem by having an
anti-backflow unit installed in my
front lawn. This is a big thing. There
is a room underground with the
anti-backflow valve and an ejector, just
in case I keep flushing.
CL (dnoyeB) Gilbert wrote:
Sure,if the hole was drilled on only one wall,
i.e., if the drill didn't go completely through
the pipe. Simplest way is insert a screw slightly
larger than the drilled hole and tighten the
screw. Use a screw for metal, preferably a brass
or stainless steel screw slightly longer than the
thickness of the PVC wall.
Assuming your pipe is standard ABS DWV, I'd personally fabricate a rough
plug out of some ABS scrap, and jam it into the hole liberally greased
with ABS glue.
It'll take at least half a day to completely set, but this is probably
the most rugged repair, because you're essentially welding the hole
shut. Or, "reconstructing the ABS pipe" if you prefer to look at it
PVC glue won't work on ABS. Yes, you can glue PVC to ABS using
"PVC-ABS" glue, but why bother? Pure ABS-ABS is better.
Epoxy or various other glues will often work (given suitable prep),
but not nearly as well as ABS solvent weld.
Reconstructing ABS using ABS scraps and ABS glue works remarkably
I had a electric blower housing case shatter when the impeller
came apart at speed. The blower case was 100% ABS. It was
easy to piece it back together using ABS glue (and a few scraps),
and now you can't tell. It's just as strong as originally.
Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est
It\'s not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.
Chris Lewis ( email@example.com) said...
The OP's subject line says "PVC", so the ABS suggestions will not work.
What colour is the pipe -- white, black, or something else?
Where I am (Toronto), we cannot use PVC for DWV, so the only plastic
DWV pipe used is ABS and that is black (ABS, the plastic, can be made
in just about any colour, but the DWV pipe is black).
We can, and usually do, use PVC for the drains from the house to the
sewer system, but the PVC-to-ABS coupling is below the basement floor.
Here, PVC used for sanitary drains must be coloured and is usually
green. White PVC can only be used on storm sewer connections (in our
municipality, only the weeping tile can connect to it).
Or a PVC solvent weld, if the pipe is PVC.
"Never ascribe to malice what can equally be explained by incompetence."
Right before I bought my first home I had installed an R/O filter
system in my apartment. For the waste water line I had to drill a hole
in the drain pipe. When I removed the R/O unit I simply threaded a
short nylon bolt into the hole. Worked like a charm. It was alot
easier than replacing the drain pipe....
Your wife is stupid Stupid STUPID !!!!
Get a divorce.
Then clean the hole real well and coat it with JB Weld
Next, take a Fernco coupling and slit it down one side (with the
clamps off of it).
Slip it around the pipe and install the clamps. You'll have to work
the clamp bands into the threads of the clamp, which can be a little
tough to do inside the wall.
Be sure the split in the fernco is AWAY from the hole and the JB Weld
is still wet.
I would NOT use the quick drying JB Weld. It will take a while to get
the clamps on, and the stuff will dry to fast.
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