Why do painted surfaces stick together?

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<stuff snipped>

technolgy,
getting
paper
"long
Well, I sure have enough of it to try some. This stuff doesn't even get wet. It's like three atoms thick of pure diamond. It's laminated, too, so you can peel the printing off and have even MORE of a mess.
Thanks,
-- Bobby G.
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Been there, wore out that t-shirt.
We had mucho plexiglass that had to be used. It was old and nothing seemed to work at getting that damn paper off. With dozens of solvents, and most any other chemical we could imagine at our fingertips, we finally settled on stoddard solvent as the best choice. It still required mucho elbow grease, but at least the solvent was of some help and didn't hurt the plastic or render us non-reproductive lifeforms. Use another piece of plexi as a scraper. If possible, work outdoors. If not, wear a respirator
I feel for you, as I know what a chore it is, but sadly, there is no easy solution, only hard work. Jes as bad, masking tape left on stainless steel to bake in the hot sun for as little as two weeks. A freakin' nightmare!
nb
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wrote:

paper
Jeez. I was hoping for another great Usenet substance discovery like adhesive-lined heat shrink tubing or automobile starter spray for anesthetizing small critters needing relocation or 2 in one slot circuit breakers.
Plexi-off or something like that. What about wallpaper remover? I seem to remember as you peeled off the paper there was a rubbery sort of film that was between plastic and paper. Seems like that's cured into armor.
Working with it I felt like I was in a scifi movie trying to break into an alien space ship that looked like it was made of garbage bag paper but was really harder than diamonds. This isn't fair. I have some big 20 by 24" trays to soak the smaller pieces in, but one piece is a full 4' by 8' by 3/8" This may be one of those times where I just put it on Craig's list and buy new stuff and hope to be around 25 years from now to worry about it again. (-:
Let's hope you were the last to suffer such a fate and they now have the solution, figuratively and literally.
Thanks for your input!
-- Bobby G.
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LOL.... I know the feeling. Like I said, we jes tossed some of it. Simply undoable. I wonder if that Goo-Gone stuff would work. Didn't have it back then.
nb
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wrote:

an
was
What bothers me most is "what's the point???" If it's to render old stock useless and force consumers to purchase new stock, then I suppose it's working great, but geez, enough is enough. I believe that tomorrow I will saw up one of the pieces into small test squares and emulate Edison's filament search by soaking them in anything and everything I can think of. Tomorrow I am going to try paint stripper and a heat gun. Someone's got to put an end to the suffering of old plexiglas owners. The real kicker is that anything that works is also likely to render the Plexi useless. They should call it Catch22glas.
-- Bobby G.
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.....or you sterile!
What we finally learned from the whole fiasco is, never warehouse the stuff. Buy it when you need it and use it up.
Good luck on your experiments, but consider this. Which is cheaper? Buying a buncha chemicals to test with or jes buying new plexi? ;)
nb
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That certainly was not my experience. I was working in CA where ambient temps were often over 100F. Not heat gun necessary. I doubt 25 yr old plexi paper will peel off "easily" with any help short of god or magic. After I posted, I got to thinking back. Some of it we jes hadda toss. That paper was jes not gonna come off, period.
nb
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On 10/25/2010 11:04 AM, Robert Green wrote:

Is this that infamous table saw again? Or was that somebody else?
--
aem sends...

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"Plexiglas".
resin
on
is
technolgy, I

very
getting
cannot
paper
Not me! I want to build an enclosure for all the squirrels I've been trapped so I can breed a SuperSquirrel and rule the world. (-:
-- Bobby G.
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Hey, thanks for that great mini-seminar on paints! It will be very helpful as I choose indoor/outdoor, stucco/wood paints.
And I'mwith you on the "...movement for change in Iran"; those people risk a lot; they have cojones of steel, if we can say that of the women resisters who often take the biggest risks.
HB
On Oct 22, 10:35pm, nkelebay_at_ilos_dot snipped-for-privacy@foo.com (Nestor Kelebay) wrote:

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On 10/22/2010 10:46 AM, JoeSpareBedroom wrote:

Did you consider putting some wax lubricant on the sliding surfaces?
TDD
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wrote:

That would make re-painting at a later date problematic. Avoid silicone and avoid wax, or plan on disassembly and degreasing every time you paint.
R
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responding to http://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/Why-do-painted-surfaces-stick-together-593845-.htm Nestor Kelebay wrote: JoeSpareBedroom:
What colour was the paint you used?
If you used an acrylic paint, there is one remaining possibility I can think of, but it will go away with time. That is, the stickiness you're experiencing will go away by itself.
And, it involves the colour of the paint, not the colour of the ladder.
Nowadays, few paint companies use coloured tint bases any more. So, if you want a red, green or blue paint, they take a tint base with NO coloured pigments in it, that would otherwise dry transluscent and colourless, and add lots and lots and lots of colourant to that tint base in the paint tinting machine to make it the desired colour.
Now, that colourant they're adding consists of coloured particles (called "pigments") dispersed in glycerine. The reason why they use glycerine as the base for paint tinting colourants is because it is readily soluble in both water and mineral spirits. So, the same colourants (and hence, the same paint tinting machine) can be used to tint both latex and oil based paints.
And, it's the AMOUNT of glycerine that may have been added to the paint that may be the source of the problem. Glycerine is very slow to evaporate, and the presence of a lot of glycerine in your paint would greatly extend it's drying time. This is the reason why you can potentially ruin a latex paint by adding too much colourant to it.
But, that glycerine will eventually evaporate from the paint film, and so that stickiness should also go away by itself if that is what's causing it.
------------------------------------- ..in solidarity with the movement for change in Iran.
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On Oct 23, 1:48pm, nkelebay_at_ilos_dot snipped-for-privacy@foo.com (Nestor Kelebay) wrote:

{slapping my head} Hey Nestor, your middle name wouldn't be Doh!, would it?

Nice of you to admit you were wrong, nimrod.

I don't even know where you're going with this, but I already know based on past experience that you're going to be wrong. Let's wait and see - this should be fun!

Yep! I was right, you are a nimrod. So all of that titanium dioxide in every paint out there dries translucent, huh? You really are a piece of work. The pigments in paint are the expensive stuff (BTW, pigment and colorants are not interchangeable words in this instance). The colorants are more expensive than the titanium dioxide pigment base that gives all paint its white color. So, to save money on the pigment cost, they spend more money on the colorant. I know you don't think about it, but do you even read what you write, or just start typing?

Do you think it's even remotely possible that that's why _any_ paint manufacturer specifically limits how much colorant can be put into a can of paint? Hmmm? So, now, instead of admitting that you're blowing smoke out of your fundamental orifice, it's the _paint manufacturers_ that don't know what they're doing. Of course - that should have been obvious.

Interesting. Totally stupid and wrong, but interesting. Joe didn't add any pigments, if in fact any pigment was added at all. IF pigment was added, it was added by the Sherwin Williams pro, who, unlike you, actually know what the fuck they're talking about. Again, instead of asking a question you pull stuff out of your ass. I'd bet dollars to donuts that Joe's windows are white, or close to it. Joe, mind answering the question - what color paint did you use? I'm hungry and some donuts would go nicely. Thanks.

So, let's see if I've got this straight. The paint manufacturer not only doesn't know about pigments in paint, but they also don't understand about drying and recoat time. Are you for real? Joe waited _way_ longer than typical/recommended. Your advice and judgement is sorely lacking, Nestor. Nestor is an appropriate name for you, BTW. This from Wikipedia - kids, I am not making this up! "Yet at the same time Nestors advice is frequently ineffective." Even the ancients knew you to be a pompous boor.
You should come with a warning sign - Here There Be Idiots.

Now I'm totally against the change in Iran. Since you're wrong on everything else, it can't be a good idea.
I begin to see why you're playing in the Homeblowersbub.com sandbox. I guess Miss McGuillicuddy is out sick and the substitute teacher is letting you run amok.
R
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On Sat, 23 Oct 2010 17:48:29 +0000, nkelebay_at_ilos_dot snipped-for-privacy@foo.com (Nestor Kelebay) wrote:

Set the hook, somebody!
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wrote:

Gee, what a surprise. They must've added a ton of colorant to get it white, huh? ;)
It was a hot as hell summer in NY. I'm on Long Island, and I could swear I heard the bay water boiling. I''m glad I didn't have to do any painting during that heat wave. Where in western NY are you?
R
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Gee, what a surprise. They must've added a ton of colorant to get it white, huh? ;)
It was a hot as hell summer in NY. I'm on Long Island, and I could swear I heard the bay water boiling. I''m glad I didn't have to do any painting during that heat wave. Where in western NY are you?
R
============== Rochester. "Just past Yonkers", as my former boss believed. I'm originally from LI. He was annoyed that I never visited his place of business in Syosset. I bought him a map of the state.
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wrote:

Come on - what's a little ten hour round trip drive between friends? :)
R
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wrote:

Come on - what's a little ten hour round trip drive between friends? :)
R =========== Ten??? More like 16 these days. I drove down there back in June and hit the TZ bridge at 4:00 AM on a Sunday. The traffic was still bullshit all the way through Westchester, the Throgs Neck and into Nassau County.
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