Why CFC's Can't be used with Electronic Timers

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Does anyone know? Electronic timers control many of my lights. Am I stuck using incandescents? Thanks for help. Frank
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Who said they can't? I run CFCs on timers and have never had a problem.

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Hmm. Being a refrigeration guy, a CFC is a "chloro fluoro carbon". I guess that would run on a timer?
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Depends on the specific model of timer. You need to contact the manufacturer with the model number of each one, or approximate year of installation. For example, there was a blip in time around 3 years ago when Intermatic's in-wall electronic timers would fry within days of being put into use with CFC bulbs. Then they fixed the problem (and replaced a lot of timers for free).
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Is that timer, or dimmer? I can believe a dimmer not working properly.
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Are you saying that you CANNOT believe a ***TIMER*** working properly?
If that is what you're saying, please explain why, without mentioning the "CFC" error. Assume I meant "CFL".

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Hmm. Suggest you polish your eye glases, and scroll down. Read again.
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Not a very informative response. Were you focusing on the "CFC" error, which has been fixed? Or were you actually commenting on timers vs dimmers?

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If the output of the electronic timer is a set of relay contacts, no problem. But if the output is a thryistor turning off and on, some CFLs will destroy themselves or maybe the timer itself. CFLs need a pretty good sine wave input to operate their electronics.
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wrote:

If the output of the electronic timer is a set of relay contacts, no problem. But if the output is a thryistor turning off and on, some CFLs will destroy themselves or maybe the timer itself. CFLs need a pretty good sine wave input to operate their electronics.
======== Exactly. The timers Intermatic sent me to replace the fried ones all contain a relay, and emit a very audible click when they turn off or on.
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Depends on when each diac turns on. It's not too hard to turn them on when the ac voltage is just a couple of volts so that the output is fairly clean. If they don't turn on until the input is 50 volts and then wham full on - I can see how that would cause problems.
I've always used timers with relays, I particluarly like the old Intermatic DT2 series and still have several of them in service.
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I use about 5 of the clock type with the round dial that has multiple on off cycles a day on cfls, Its CFL, not CFC, for compact flourescent light. Some types of electronic controls dont do well, but all my outdoor lights are Cfl and work fine. You might find some electronic switches the bulb flickers when turned off.
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They work OK with my X-10 system. Can't dim them , of course, but that is not a requirement for them anyway.
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some of the electronic timers use a low current thru the filament of a indandescent bulb to operate the timer....... CFLs wouldnt pass this low current.
years ago i strapped a small resistor across the line so the electronic timer could operate.
after that i changed to the rotating knob old style timers, since minor power outages dont wipe their memory. they just loose some time. we get frequent short outages.
isnt technology wonderful....... sigh
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wrote:

If this is a 3 wire timer, or a plug in timer, it should work. The kind that don't are the 2 wire "in box" timers and occupancy sensors. The CFL does not pass enough current "off" to run the timer. The lamp usually glows, but not started and burns up pretty fast.
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Thanks all. Particularly interested to hear that they work with the X-10 system. My Intermatics are old and all emit clicks indicating relays (though I had some bad ones of these unrelated to CFL usage.) I do have one timer that apparently uses a Thyristor- an Aube. I really prefer that unit, but the display goes blank when the bulb burns out. I guess that one won't work with CFL's, right?
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Flash: Aube says the TI032-3W (which I have) will work with CFL's if the combined wattage exceeds 40W, so I guess all mine will work!
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wrote:

In the last 9 months or so, they've had timers that replace wall switches at the big box stores that will work with cfc's. And regular fluuorescents I think. I haven't changed my fixture yet and haven't installed the switch yet. About 17 dollars, plus I needed a rectangular-holed face plate.
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With x10 modules I get the bulb flashing when its off for awhile then it stops, I use them anyway. Check out x10 outdoor floodlight sensors, cfls work and the outside sensor does all the x10 stuff.
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CFLs will not work (or not work properly) with standard (hot wire only) X10 switches. You need to use ones that have both hot and neutral connections. If this is a wall switch, it requires both the correct switch (such as the XPS3) and a neutral wire in the switch box.
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Peace,
BobJ



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