Who knows about Garage Doors fixing..


I have a 32x24 shop and my garage door cable came off.. I bent the top left tracks, I went bought a new one and put it on. How many turns do you give the spring? I have 1 spring and I guess it is a 18' door When you turn the spring do you turn it forward?? Do I need to have the door DOWN? Do my turning then attach the cable when the door is down. Being cut back 3 days a week, I got to fix this my self Id appreciate any advice Dave in Tennessee
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Jack Valance wrote:

would one of you home repair people give Jack a word or two concerning his request. Jack posted this is misc.rural and would most likely be reading or expecting replies in misc.rural..
Jack you might want to subscribe to alt.home.repair to look for replies...
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Read this: http://www.truetex.com/garage.htm
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Jim wrote:

With proper tool and door down, start from about 30 turns. and door should be in neutral state. It should move up/down easy with one hand push/pull. Hwew one cable snapped during summer(TG, not in winter) and I went thru replacing cables, rewinding springs, brackets and learned how to do it.
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Jim wrote:

If you don't know which way to turn the spring, it sounds as if your knowledge in this type of work is very limited. Add to that, tightening a coil spring like that can be very dangerous. A good number of people end up with a bloody door and a trip to the emergency room. I suggest you hire a pro.
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Bingo. If you do not have the correct tools for this you will more than likely become injured.
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I got 2 2' 1 1/2 smooth rounds for this. I just got to know about the perticulars.. I'm cut back 3days a week and I sure ain't got $75 to pay somebody. Hell it can't be rocket science,
Acutally I found a guy at work who use to do this, he is coming over Thursday and do it.. Gonna give him $40 to do it. Fact I found 3/4 craftsman opener, 2 remotes and a key pad on craigs list for $40 bucks.. Really don't need that much hp a 1/2 ought to do. Guy got his house repossed and he is gutting it selling about eveything he can
See now I done spent $80 bucks I aint got.. I got to sell something to get at least $40
Boys if you ain't hit hard times you lucky. Folks around these parts are hurting.. Mill closed down 6 months ago. Folks about now are scrambleing to make ends.
I'm acutally lucky I still got a job and insurance. I got a daughter in Med school. Yea I been living over my means for years and it has about caught up. Your used to putting in 60hrs a week for the last 15 years and now 36... Sundays was double time and it has been gone a year.. My damn Obama check ain't come in yet.
Serioulsy Thanks for the answers
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Jack Valance wrote:

Glad you found someone with experience. Seriously, I feel better now.
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I hope he has homeowner's insurance to cover it in case it turns out the guy from work is the one that gets injured. If you hire a real door company and make sure they are insured, you're pretty much off the hook if they get hurt or killed.
I do lots of my own work myself. I draw the line when it comes to getting some other uninsured amature involved, particularly having them do something that is known to be potentially dangerous
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snipped-for-privacy@optonline.net wrote:

pretty sad how this thread went from someone asking how to do something to concerns over issues of liabilities.
I still enjoy the imaginary illusions of this once having been a nation of people who took responsibility for their own actions.
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Having one of the deeper pockets in this group, I can assure you that responsibilities for one's actions, as well as station in life, are fading very quickly.
Even those that want to work have to be monitored in person, it seems. I can get more done by myself, some days, than the three people put together that are supposedly working for me. Complacency, Peter Principle, sloth.... I dunno what it is.
Anyway, back to garage doors. The springs on mine are fine. But somebody moved a microwave stand under the track,which I did not see from the house door, and I lowered the door onto it (automatic/ motorized garage door). Being in a growling mood at the time, I pushed the issue. End result has been the breaking of the windows in the top panel of the door, as well as fracture of the top 2x4/header (dunno the terminology). Need to get this fixed in the next few weeks, so I can lower this North facing door and keep the house warmer this winter.
never a dull moment..... Linda H.
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wrote:

Replace the top panel. Mine broke like that because Sears installed the opener wrong. It took maybe 30 minutes for the guys to replace it.Cant help with the cost info Sears paid for it.
Jimmie
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Linda Hungerford wrote:

Exactly how did you come to this conclusion?
BTW, you posted across no less than 3 groups so you've covered a lot more territory than "this group" with your opinion.
AL
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Linda Hungerford wrote:

speaking of deeper pockets and fading, have you ever bought a pair of Red Camel Blue jeans? I mean seriously it's really fun trying to reach the loose change in the bottom of the pocket when the pocket goes all the way down to your knees... what were they thinking when they came up with this deep pocket design.... http://www.belk.com/AST/Boutiques/Boutiques_Primary/Red_Camel/Men/Shop/Jeans.jsp http://www.belk.com/AST/Boutiques/Boutiques_Primary/Red_Camel/Juniors/Shop/Jeans.jsp

that's precisely why I Farm soybeans and not some extremely labor intensive crop requiring a crew of field labors.
On the Farming news for this year, three weeks ago the group 6 beans were in prefect condition to be cut so I got in Big Buba Truck to move him over to the field I'd selected to start in and found out the truck had zero brakes, like pedal to the floor kind of zero brakes... The repair started at a leaking front wheel cylinder and progressed until I had replaced all six wheel cylinders plus the master cylinder and several fluid lines which busted during testing the repair. and yep, all I could see was dollar signs when I did finally get the rear axles out just so I could remove the rear brake drums to reveal dual wheel cylinders at 48 dollars each. Then there was the fun of trying to locate a parts house with parts for a 1973 Ford F600. it was during my parts search I learned how there are 4 different rear end types, four different rear brake systems and four different styles of axle seals for a 1973 F600. So I just kept laughing and searching. To my amazement CarQuest shocked me by having more of the correct parts than those so called heavy truck specialist. Anyhow, with that behind me now, I got the truck put back together on the day before it started raining here four days ago. Yep, it has rained for the last four days with present total accumulation in my rain gauge currently now at 4 and 2/10s inches with more rain for tomorrow and Saturday in the forecast.
It'll take 7 days of no rain for the land that drains good and 14 days for those spots that don't drain well before I'll even consider taking that JD3300 combine out into the fields... oh well, maybe I'm going to get my wish of not having to ride in a hot miserable cab..

best wishes 2U in obtaining a proper and adequate repair. and yes, like Farming, "never a dull moment....."
:)
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Jim said...
I hate to do this to you, bud, but maybe it will come in handy next time. (It's sure a lot cheaper ...)

The leaking (most probably) started in the rubber seals (disc brakes) and rubber cups (behind the little pistons inside drum brake cylinders). Very similar seals are used in master cylinders.
Since 'rebuild kits' for almost any cylinder are readily available (containing cups, pistons, and internal springs) for LESS THAN 1/10th THE PRICE of a cylinder, it makes sense to use them.
Added benefit: you don't have to remove anywhere near as many pieces to replace the internals of the cylinder.
Another 'cheating' hint for cleaning out any gunk rings inside the cylinder: you can always insert a finger into the cylinder. A fingernail is hard enough to scrape it away, but not hard enough to gouge the interior walls. I've even used some very fine-grit rouge cloth over the end of a dowel to buff the inside walls smooth of gunk. (not recommended unless you **scrupulously** flush the interior with copious amounts of brake fluid, afterward . . . before installing the guts.)
BTW - the only time you can't use the rebuild kits (which often are the only things - beside washing - that are changed out in a 'factory-rebuilt' cylinder) is when the cylinder has been physically damaged in an accident: gouges, cracks, etc.
P.S. - there aren't really that many different interior- diameter cylinders used on consumer/business vehicles. Most times, you can get away with just replacing the rubber cups, leaving the springs and pistons alone, with nothing more than cleaning them up. If you leave the springs alone, you don't have to worry about different- length cylinders of a particular inside diameter. The cup set alone should be about a dollar. (Maybe twice that today, with Obama's counterfeit dollars.)
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(Dweezil Dwarftosser) says...

A brake cylinder hone is cheap, and lets you do a complete factory rebuild on the brake cylinder.
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Jim wrote:

Sad indeed. Even worse is how having insurance can be its own liability. A friend works for a court reporting service and while I can never be told the details of some of the depositions that are taken, I do get to hear some appalling stories which all too often involve a person who ends up as the plaintiff in a lawsuit against a friend or relative because an insurance company wants to get someone else to pay for the bills from an event that they had agreed to provide coverage for.
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