Which wire is which in 3-wire zip cord?

[dpb]

On 3/9/2012 11:13 AM, [e-mail] wrote: ...

What Code section would that be, pray tell?

You never seen/had a lamp or other plug-in device w/ a linecord switch?

--

[Doug Miller]

[e-mail] wrote in news: [e-mail]:

Nonsense. Code applies to premises wiring, not to things that plug into it.

More nonsense. Nothing dangerous about using a line cord switch, as long as it's properly done.

Also nonsense.

Killing *anybody* isn't a Federal offense unless it occurs on Federal property. Otherwise, murder is prosecuted under state statute.

In the future, stick to offering advice on subjects you know something about. If there are any.

[krw]

Apparently there is at least one exception (plug-in GFCI on hair dryer).

it's properly

Otherwise,

If there are any.

[DerbyDad03]

as it's properly

perty. Otherwise,

out. If there are any.

Hey Doug,

I agree that there's nothing wrong with using a line cord switch, but I'm a little concerned with the OP simply enlarging the hole in the top of the unit and using some wire nuts to attach the switch to the line.

If the unit can't be opened, I don't see how he'll be able to mount the switch and secure the wirenuts safely.

I'd love to hear back from the OP on how he plans to do that.

[Don Wiss]

They don't really say. There is a hole to run the wire out to the back. I think they expect you to plug it into the power strip and use that switch to turn it on and off.

Many reviews at Sears (under the 6' backwall) complain about the lack of an on/off switch. One complains about having to plug/unplug the light into the power strip. Another writes "I solved this by pulling the plug-end off, drilling a hole, and soldering in a $4 chain pulled on/off switch from

*****. It should have just come that way." Another writes "The light could use a power switch. I guess I will splice one into the cord."

I could solder instead of using wire nuts.

You mean all the way at one end (of your choice)? I ordered a second for the other end. But the mounting brackets for it are in the bag with all the parts for the backwall. So a neighbor is going to bend some metal strips he has around and will make a couple for me.

I see. A nice idea. But cutting holes in the front steel frame to install electrical boxes would be very difficult.

I also suspect your workbench cost more. Sears' online prices fluctuate every few days. I paid $700 for the frame, backwall, one 5-drawer set, and butcher block top. That included NYC sales tax and delivery.

Don.

(e-mail link at home page bottom).

[Don Wiss]

I've thought about a junction box. I probably could find one to fit in there. It would require drilling a bunch more holes, instead of simply enlarging one that is already there.

If no box, I would use electrical tape to tape to the top so they don't actually float.

Don.

(e-mail link at home page bottom).

[DerbyDad03]

My workbench is homemade and all wood - very old, full sized 2 x 4's and 2 x 6's, topped with a replaceable piece of hardboard. ~3.5' x 8'.

Most assuredly not mobile.

Mounting a series of receptacles across the front involved nothing more than some wood screws through the back of the electrical boxes and a bunch of wire staples to secure the Romex. There's a junction box on the back corner where the feed wire comes in so that I can unhook it if I had to.

The receptacles are on a different circuit than the lights so that if the breaker trips I'm not plunged into darkness. That's always a good idea for a workshop.

[dpb]

Well, Code does require "workmanlike" manner of installation. I was presuming you would have the connections inside the lamp housing but I guess that's what you meant in the no-access part.

While it is undoubtedly "safe enough" from an actual standpoint to do the latter, I would find a small box and mount the switch there and mount the box permanently to either the lamp housing or the bench.

I would/do _not_ consider the tape solution "workmanlike".

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[Don Wiss]

One reviewer wrote "I solved this by pulling the plug-end off, drilling a hole, and soldering in a $4 chain pulled on/off switch from *****. It should have just come that way."

If I could figure out to pull the end off, the pull chain switch that I bought is deeper than the plastic housing. It requires 7/8" behind, and the plastic housing is only 5/8" thick outside dimension. So less inside between its two plastic walls. Say less than 1/2" deep inside.

Don.

(e-mail link at home page bottom).

[HeyBub]

You're trying to solve the wrong problem.

Think "Clapper" (as seen on TV).

If that's too "old" fashioned, think power strip with a switch. You'll always need extra outlets anyway.

[dpb]

...

There're a million boxes from which to choose--the Shack used to have bunches; the one here has nothing electronic to speak of in stock any longer so don't know what you might find walk-in...what I'm thinking of in general, not necessarily a specific...

Pictures/drawings??? As another respondent said earlier, "there's _always_ a way"... :)

Or, if figuring out how mounting the switch is too much a pita, buy an inline cord switch and put it in the line where it's convenient. That leaves no unhidden connections.

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[Doug Miller]

" [e-mail]" wrote in news: [e-mail]:

Where does Code require that?

[Don Wiss]

That was my first thought. But the three wire zip cord is too wide. All the ones I found are all designed for 2-wire zip cord.

Don.

(e-mail link at home page bottom).

[Robert Green]

I solved a similar problem using something I was clued into here in AHR. A tiny switch adapter - mine came from Radio Shack but I have seen others. It looks like a three-prong to two prong adapter but it has a small switch on the side to control any load plugged into it.

There are also remote switches - they are very much like the small adapter switch but they have a wire leading out from the "stacked" outlet - you plug your lamp into the piggyback plug and then into the wall. I wire leads out from the outlet to a small hand-holdable switch. That way you can place the switch anywhere that's convenient.

is the URL (I hope) for the wired one - they have a wireless remote switches as well that would even be more convenient although a little pricier. All UL listed, no code or safety issues. (-:

-- Bobby G.

[micky]

Take a hat pin or a corsage pin or a straight pin and put it into the wire and use your meter. The little hole it might leave won't matter. Use a wire with an alligator clip on the end to grip the pin.

You might also be able to tell from the end of the wire not connected to the light. Measure resittance from each prong to various parts of the fixture.

Is there a plug on the end. The narrow prong is hot.

[trader4]

[e-mail]:

We went through that about a month ago. I thought the same thing, that the NEC wouldn't have anything to do with a hairdryer, but it does cover it. I read it. It says hairdryers have to provide protection against shock. If you google the group here for it you should be able to find it.

I agree that a properly installed switch in that light cord is OK. There sure are plenty of those around.

[micky]

They also make 1" cubes with a switch on top, and prongs on one side, and a receptacle on another. I use them a lot for things without swtiches.

See my other post.

[Don Wiss]

That would be good for the fellow plugging it in and out. I guess he has something else plugged in that he wants to keep on.

I don't want to have my cord run down the side and across to an outlet that is past the switch. I want all the wire hidden in the top housing. And then go out the back.

Don.

(e-mail link at home page bottom).

[Don Wiss]

I could do that fairly easily with Wiremold or using some other surface mounted parts. The top has a 6" overhang. And there is a 4" wide support beam under the top.

Some years ago I tossed out a lot of Wiremold. Some prior owner of this pre-electric house had used it in a couple of walkthrough closets.

Don.

(e-mail link at home page bottom).