Which saw to buy Pt2

This is a follow-up to all the great answers I got to asking which saw to buy to frame and trim a small stereo closet in my basement. I am choosing a Miter saw since it can do moldings and I might need to do the trim in my basement bathroom as well. Plus, miter saws have all those fancy knobs and gauges that I just can't resist :)
I am looking at the Black And Decker Firestorm which I can't seem to find for sale anywhere.. It has 2 year warranty. Its $170. Either this one
http://www.blackanddecker.com/ProductGuide/Product-Details.aspx?ProductID 96
or this one
http://www.blackanddecker.com/ProductGuide/Product-Details.aspx?ProductID &63
Or this Craftsman for $129
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid921229000&subcat=Miter+Saws
I'm not sure I really need the extension wings and stop block on the more expensive one.
Are these acceptable choices, or perhaps if I am willing to buy these I should go ahead and buy an __?
I recall loving my B&D cordless hammer drill. However, I am finally realizing the torque settings are kind of SWAGish and inconsistent. Its innaccurate. Do you think the B&D Miter saws might also be innaccurate?
And finally, am I to put this on the floor and cut, or is there a specific type of table to buy/make? Im pretty handy but my respect for power saws runs into the realm of fear, so the more info the better.
Thanks all!
--
Thank you,


CL Gilbert
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I just purchased the Firestorm 10" Compound Miter Saw from my local Rona hardware store. I am very satisfied with it. I really wanted the Dewalt but I could not justify the price. After playing with several models I found the feel of the Frirestorm was very much like the Dewalt. I found that many compound miter saws have a noticeable play when you bring the blade down to cut. The Firestorm (like the Dewalt) is good and solid. I am just using the saw to finish my basement ( I am not a Pro or anything) this saw is more than enough for me.
By the way I found that the wings that come out of the saw are fine for small pieces of wood, but if you are cutting 8 foot 2 by 4's you may want to consider a miter saw stand. I got one and it make life much easer and safer.
-Sean
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Sean M wrote:

Nice. I talked to the B&D store today and they said the Firestorm brand was exclusive to Lowes. But you were able to get one at Rona?
So I ask for a "Miter Saw Stand." Are they universal, or does yours just work with your particular saw?
I like the B&D also because of the 2y warranty. The craftsmans are only 1 year, but there are two sears I can reach easily, having trouble finding the B&D.
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CL Gilbert
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Hi,
I am in Canada, perhaps Lowes has an exclusive deal with B&D in the U.S.A. We do not have Lowes up hear (that I know of).
Miter stands seem to all be universal. Any Home Depot should have several brands to choose from.
Good luck!
-Sean
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Sean M wrote:

No, not B&D, just the Firestorm labelled products. Perhaps that is different in Canada. LOL, yea I just checked Rona.ca. They have "Spitfire" which is exact same as "Firestorm" but with relabelling :P
I supposed they relabelled it since its $170usd at lowes but $120usd at rona, hehe.
I was about to get a dewalt, but this 'spitfire' is going to be nice. Of course im not sure how the warranty will work, and if they will want to tack on a few $$$ at the border.
I live in Detroit, so I'll give it a shot and see what happens. Thanks for the info.
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CL Gilbert
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CL (dnoyeB) Gilbert wrote:

Well I am probably going to give you more than expected but trim work is what I do for a living. If you are going to use the saw frequently I would stay away from B&D, Firestorm etc. I currently use and own two DeWalt 12" Slider miter saws. A wonderful saw but comes with a price. I have been considering the Bosch 12" Slider in the future. For you information only here are some other tools I recommend good luck
Staple Gun I use a Senco and Hitachi. The Hitachi by far is the better gun. It shoots up to a 1 1/2" 1/4 crown staple.
16 Gauge Brad Nailers I have a Hitachi and Paslode. Paslode has the edge.
18 Gauge Brad Nailers I use Senco, Bostich. Like the Bostich
Jigsaw Bosch and Craftsman. Would throw the Craftsman away. The Bosch is bar far the better tool with its blades.
Good Luck
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JH, do you find the sliding miter saw as accurate as the fixed ones ??
--james--
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JH wrote:

I've swung back to the Dewalt. I think its made in America somewhere. i have staple gun now, and its an elchepo. it never occured to me why it was so 8hitty. how hard can it be to make a staple gun? I consider bosch since there is a repair shop about 3 blocks from my house.
The craftsmans all said imported in their catalog. Plus they got poor reviews on some of their saws on consumer reports, as did B&D.
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CL Gilbert
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If you are going to spend the $170, for a few $ more, get a DeWalt 703 (Amazon.com product link shortened)38245858/sr=8-1/ref=pd_bbs_1/104-0447983-8082314?nP7846&s=hi&v=glance
If you are cutting long 2 x 4s, the extensions are a big help in supporting the wood safely while you cut. I cannot imagine NOT having them. Picture this: You are going to operate the saw with your right hand. You want to take 3" off of an 8' board so it has to be held down with your left hand. Therefore, you have about 7' of wood hanging off the end of the saw and you hand is 6" away from a blade spinning at 3500 rpm. Would you take a chance and pull the blade down or would you like to have a little extra support? If you don't buy the extension, at least rig up a support with a table or sawhorse, or a drum, or something.
While on safety. I always bring the blade down to the work before I retract it and start the motor to make the cut. It does two things. It allows me to see that the blade is going to be on my cut line. It allows me to see it is not going to cut my fingers or wrist. People have done it.
Stop block is handy if you are making repeated cuts. Saves a lot of time and improves accuracy and repeatability.
It will work on the floor, but your back will appreciate a table. I have my 12" saw on a Stanley folding work table. It was about 430 IIRC at Home Depot. Any reasonably sturdy table or a piece of plywood on saw horses will do.
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Edwin Pawlowski wrote:

(Amazon.com product link shortened)38245858/sr=8-1/ref=pd_bbs_1/104-0447983-8082314?nP7846&s=hi&v=glance
yes, thats the one I have decided on through enough reading. A refurbished one I can get for about $150. This reaffirms it.

Ill keep this in mind.
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CL Gilbert
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For the original posters use I have to agree 100 percent...in fact its almost a No brainer.. Bob G.
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CL (dnoyeB) Gilbert wrote:

I got my B&D 10" miter saw at WalMart for $56.00 during Christmas. It's now back up to $96.00. Also got a steel roll-around tool bench on which to mount the saw (and store some parts) for $27 and the only modification was a couple of holes used to bolt down the saw.
A handy do-dad is a laser guide. It fits on the blade like a large washer and the laser comes on via a centrifugal switch. Shines a light on the work where the blade will cut. Got mine at Home Depot for about $25.
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Actually, it scares the hell out of me.
I make a line on the part to be cut. I put it in place, bring the blade down and line it up, making any small adjustments as needed. Now, with my left hand firmly holding the board, I raise the saw a bit, squeeze the trigger and make the cut.
With your laser setup, you start the blade spinning 3500 rpm to light the laser, Now, with carbide tipped steel blade running, you start to move the wood around with one hand to get it lined up to the mark. Nope, I like having lots of fingers and don't wiggle them around moving saw blades. And I'll be I can beat you on accuracy.
--
Ed
http://pages.cthome.net/edhome/



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I seem to remember you saying you needed to cut panels as well. How are you planning to cut those?
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