When to give up on the 4x6 horz'l bandsaw?

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On Sat, 1 Dec 2012 13:10:33 -0500, "Existential Angst"

Chicom bandsaws are of "variable quality". Shrug
Some will work very nicely..others..need serious tweaking. Which is the reason I have (2) Emerson 7x12s and a bigger Spartan saw.
There are many good online sources for data on tweaking these saws.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pUsMVYyHWPc

http://www.shopfloortalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t 751
https://www.google.com/search?q=tuning+chinese+horizontal+bandsaw
Hunt..and ye shall find the answers to the Universe!!
Gunner
The methodology of the left has always been:
1. Lie 2. Repeat the lie as many times as possible 3. Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible 4. Eventually, the uninformed believe the lie 5. The lie will then be made into some form oflaw 6. Then everyone must conform to the lie
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How did you fare from Sandy? I figured your basement would be completely underwater.
--
Remove "nospam" to get to me.

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Hey, nice of you to ask, but no, I'm on a hill, bone dry. I lose power all the time, which is why I'm x'ing off the days on my calendar until my 15,000 W nat gas genset arrives.... Didn't lose power during Sandy, but since I bit my fingernails to the quick, I figger next time, with a genset, I at least won't have to bandage all 10 digits... LOL
Said hill, however, means I can't get to my house when it snows.... :(
--
EA


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http://newjersey.craigslist.org/tls/3346824330.html
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I have a larger hobby size - 7x11 with fluid spray and hydrologic feed. I put a hydrologic oil filter - a Parker on the flow tube and it extends the life of the blades and improves the cut as well. I have a nice M42 blade for it, but the carbon blade keeps cutting and cutting. I finally broke some teeth off it and replaced it with the last carbon. Figured I'd keep the M42 tip for a special use or a later day.
The parker filter happens to be a common one and the oil in the oil bath soaked the paper within and lasted and lasted. I finally rusted it when the mix got old and watered down to much. That took 8 or 9 years just like the last carbon blade. I have two more filters in the cabinet.
Martin
On 12/1/2012 12:10 PM, Existential Angst wrote:

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wrote:

Your setup with a saw per specific blade is a great idea...of which I will implement in my own shops.
I have many grinders with wheels per specific job...for a bit of floor space you get significant convenience.
The cart for a stand is another great idea. =================================================== Yeah, works good in tight spaces, as well. The "stands" that come with these saws are soooo dorky and crappy.... The carts have great storage capacity, as well.
With the saws mounted close/side-by-side, you can also use both vises, which helps in some cases. Best to leave both saws "loose", so you can shove them around a bit, if only to get the vise stop of one out of the way of the other. No biggie to do this.
I also got rid of the screw belt-tension jobby, and got a long door spring, which I wrapped from the top of the motor around to the pivot arm (where the saw tension spring attaches), to create spring tension on the motor/belt/pulley system, which makes speed changing near-instant -- one of the best mods I made, bang-fer-buck-wise. However, if you have dedicated saws with dedicated blades, this will be a less critical feature, but if you have only one saw, and cut different metals, it's really a time/effort saver.
This strategy can also be a bit of a blade saver, by allowing the pulley to slip, in case of a real jam.
You shoulda seen my recirculating setup.... proly overkill tho.... the oil drip thing I saw on youtube is something I may implement for myself. -------------------------------------
FYI...the retail chain is setup to sell "a box" and is not equipped for even the slightest repair/adjustment job on any item.
For your tracking problem...make sure your blades are properly tensioned...which means in this case to tighten the crap out of the saw...proper tensioning really can't be done with the saw as it is..the handle is too small..but having it as tight as you can do goes a long ways. Also buy good blades...as with most machine tools today the magic is in the cutting tool not the machine. Poorly made blades will never track and will drive you crazy. I have had good luck with Lenox and Morse brands. ====================================================== I never thought of that, but in hindsight I recall cheap blades that got totally distorted by the saw. And indeed cheap blades could be part of the problem.
I also need to get a good blade welder. I've had about 3, with not much luck. I used to use one in a University machine shop, and even as a neophyte back then, my blade welding was flawless -- with a DoAll blade welder. Now, it's so hit and miss, I don't hardly bother, which is proly why I let the saws sit out of commission so long.
I think HF has a blade welder. Any good?
Funny story: I sent a boxful of 1/2 blades to Starret for welding. They were so offended by my blades they told me they were not only not going to weld them, but that they were going to throw them out.....!!!!!! I put a stop to that in a hurry, got the blades back, and have wished pox on them ever since. Wadn't too impressed with Starret blades, either.
--
EA






TMT



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Lenox bi-metal blades. Best thing since oral sex and sliced bread.
Spend the extra couple dollars and only buy Lenox bi-metals. Really good blade stock!!
Gunner
The methodology of the left has always been:
1. Lie 2. Repeat the lie as many times as possible 3. Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible 4. Eventually, the uninformed believe the lie 5. The lie will then be made into some form oflaw 6. Then everyone must conform to the lie
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