On Fri, 18 Oct 2013 07:59:49 -0700 (PDT),
I know this post is 7 years old, but since it raises the subject of
hanging mirrors, I'll tell a story.
When my mother and her husband moved to Pennsylvania, she hired a
mirror company (are there such things?) to hang the mirror that was
part of my bedroom furniture.
As they were working, she offered them the J-brackets that had been
used in the first home where we had the mirror, and in the second.
The guy said, Oh we don't need those.
TWo hours after they left, the mirror fell off the wall.
Broke the glass and the frame. The jerky company replaced the mirror
but never fixed one corner of the frame. The mitre had a gap of
almost 1/4 inch. It was expensive furniture, solid ash. with two
matching dressers, a desk, two single beds, and a night table. My
mother was over 65 and didn't fight as hard as she would have when
This guy's mirror was 32 x 48, no smaller than mine.. He shouldnt'
be relying only on picture wire and eyelets.
On Fri, 18 Oct 2013 18:35:50 -0400, email@example.com wrote:
Did you read my story about my mirror, hung by professionals, which
fell down and broke the glass and the frame two hours after they left.
32x48" is going to be very heavy. It needs J-brackets underneath the
On 10/19/2013 12:16 PM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Depends on the mirror. A modern mirror is probably not *that* heavy at
that size. An antique could easily be 1/4" thick or thicker and you do
*not* want that falling. If using wire I would use the heaviest wire I
could find, and screw a hook into each of two adjacent studs.
Typically the wire is either directly screwed into the frame with screws
and washers, or else eye screws.
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
If the eye screws are in tension they can pull out Properly
installed, they won't (screwed in on angle so pulling the wire forces
the eyes in, instead of pulling them out - and with the open end of
the loop either welded/soldered or at least opposite the wire))
An antique mirror that size would be quite unusual. But, yes, they
are much heavier. We have one about half that size (oval) that is
quite heavy but wire and wall anchors still work quite well.
Directly into the frame? Our mirror has eye screws. The large print
has anchor points built into the frame.
The wire on the print is rather interesting. It attaches to the
bottom of the frame, about 1/3 the way across on each side. From
there it goes over loops in the top spaced about half that distance to
the edge, then strung through two more loops about 1/3 down from the
top, on the sides across the back. The weight of the print is then
carried by the bottom of the frame and the frame and matting is all
held in compression. The framer did quite a nice job on it.
On 10/19/2013 05:11 PM, email@example.com wrote:
Some of them were made to size with beveled glass; I had one like that
above the fireplace in my last house. It was obviously salvaged from
somewhere else and cut down, as only two edges were beveled - I got rid
of it and repainted that wall.
It was *quite* heavy.
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
On Sat, 19 Oct 2013 12:16:50 -0400, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
If it isn't heavy that's fine. Some are, especially when they are not
mirrors. Maybe your glass is thin, and there is only a cardboard
backing because the silvering on a mirror doesn't have to be
protected. I posted because I objected to unmitigated advice that
it isn't necessary to fasten to studs, when many mirrors that size,
especially quaity mirrors, are heavy. .
Try a 72 inch X 30 inch on 3/4" baltic plywood. Fastened by 2
screws in the wall and "keyhole" brackets on the back of the mirror.
Been there 20 years..
"professional" just means they get paid to do it - doesn't mean they
are any good, or even smart.
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