What's a good thing that comes in a tube that fits in a caulking gun
(caulk maybe but not necessarily) that will stick to rubber or neoprene
and Lexan (polycarbonate)? That is black, tan, or clear? And is
My convertible top window was not well attached at top and I had just
finished one step in trying to fix it, when I was lowering it and it I
helped it past its first roadbock, but didn't know it now had a second
one, and it went thump. I did errands in the afternoon and when I went
to put the top up again, I found out the window was broken.
I've knocked off almost all of the glass that was stuck to the neoprene,
and I plan to use pop-rivets, 4 at the bottom, 4 at the top, and 2 at
each end. Unless you say I need more
I just met a kid who has the same year car, and I'm going to make a
pattern of his rear window, and I think getting the bottom and sides
will be pretty easy with a helper, but the weight of the window and
other things make it hard get the window as close to the cloth/rubber
above it as the original was. So I want to leave the lexan taller at
the top and trim it to the right side later.
Can I score it with a carbide pen or an awl, and then break it where
it's scored? Or can I possible use a sabre saw while it is installed
on 3 sides? How would one do that?
I would pay a guy to put in a new window, but he'll say it needs a new
top too and it willl soon. If I do them separately, I have to pay for
some of the same labor twice. And if I do them together, it might be a
And for the first time in my life, I don't like the car and may want to
sell it soon.
Plus I think I can do a very good job. I bought a sheet of
polycarbonate ($40 for 24"x48", 3/8" thick. They didn't have thinnner.)