What's a good way to get rid of rain surface rust on tools left outside

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Is there any other?<g>
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You're a funny old fashioned guy?
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I meant funny/peculiar not funny/haha!
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He does some nice stuff, including his wife<eg> I'd like to know what sources he uses to find out how things actually looked before people f'ed 'em up. It can't ALL be in his head. My grandson loves that show and American Pickers. I'd like to have either one of their jobs, seems like it be a lot of fun
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On Fri, 22 Feb 2013 20:21:54 -0600, ChairMan wrote:

The apple cider and molasses solution doesn't seem to have worked: http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/body/hrdp_0901_rust_removal_guide/viewall.html
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I tried tarnX on brass. It says not for brass, and it sort of worked.
I always used navel jelly on my aluminum wheels after the clear wore off. I know they sell aluminum jelly, but it's just not as strong.
Greg
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Soak in Brulin's Unicide 256, uncut. Actually will migrate some of the metal back into metal.
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On Sat, 23 Feb 2013 09:46:50 -0800 Robert Macy wrote:

Googling, I find the MSDS over here: http://brulin.com/cmsassets/file/msds/161042_msd.pdf
10% dimethyl-N-benzylammonium Chloride (CAS 68424-85-1) 5% Didecyldimethylammonium chloride (CAS 7173-51-5) 2.5% Ethyl alcohol
I'll look up how ammonium chloride can remove rust since I always thought it CREATED rust!
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If you drop a penny into the liquid [remove any oil films] in about 30 seconds it's shiny like new.
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On Fri, 22 Feb 2013 17:02:05 +0000 Danny D. wrote:

On Sun, 24 Feb 2013 14:35:58 -0800, Oren wrote:

UPDATE: Thanks everyone for the advice on the phosphoric acid.
Here is a before picture of some of the newly rusted tools:

The pink slime was muuuuch more gloppy than I had expected:

The metal turned black and was washed off in a bucket:

Then it was dried before applying motor oil to the metal:

In hindsight, the rust-spotted chrome worked the best, and the prybar steel worked worst - with the saw blades fairing rather poorly with respect to restoring the original surface:

Within minutes of drying, a white "lard" formed on the tools:

Nobody had mentioned that white lard. Any idea what it is?

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On Fri, 22 Feb 2013 17:02:05 +0000 Danny D. wrote:

On Sun, 24 Feb 2013 14:35:58 -0800, Oren wrote:

UPDATE: Thanks everyone for the advice on the phosphoric acid.
Here is a before picture of some of the newly rusted tools:

The pink slime was muuuuch more gloppy than I had expected:

The metal turned black and was washed off in a bucket:

Then it was dried before applying motor oil to the metal:

In hindsight, the rust-spotted chrome worked the best, and the prybar steel worked worst - with the saw blades fairing rather poorly with respect to restoring the original surface:

Within minutes of drying, a white "lard" formed on the tools:

Nobody had mentioned that white lard. Any idea what it is?

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On Fri, 22 Feb 2013 17:02:05 +0000 Danny D. wrote:

On Sun, 24 Feb 2013 14:35:58 -0800, Oren wrote:

UPDATE: Thanks everyone for the advice on the phosphoric acid.
Here is a before picture of some of the newly rusted tools:

The pink slime was muuuuch more gloppy than I had expected:

The metal turned black and was washed off in a bucket:

Then it was dried before applying motor oil to the metal:

In hindsight, the rust-spotted chrome worked the best, and the prybar steel worked worst - with the saw blades fairing rather poorly with respect to restoring the original surface:

Within minutes of drying, a white "lard" formed on the tools:

Nobody had mentioned that white lard. Any idea what it is?

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On Tue, 26 Feb 2013 17:28:25 +0000 Danny D. wrote:
Jesus. Something is wrong (again) with aioe.org because it just hung and hung.
I see, belatedly, it posted three times!
Sorry about that.
Note: This may post 3 times also (so I will refrain from posting if that happens). I hope aioe can fix themselves soon if that's the case.
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On Tue, 26 Feb 2013 17:28:25 +0000 Danny D. wrote:
Jesus. Something is wrong (again) with aioe.org because it just hung and hung.
I see, belatedly, it posted three times!
Sorry about that.
Note: This may post 3 times also (so I will refrain from posting if that happens). I hope aioe can fix themselves soon if that's the case.
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On Tue, 26 Feb 2013 17:28:25 +0000 Danny D. wrote:
Jesus. Something is wrong (again) with aioe.org because it just hung and hung.
I see, belatedly, it posted three times!
Sorry about that.
Note: This may post 3 times also (so I will refrain from posting if that happens). I hope aioe can fix themselves soon if that's the case.
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On Tue, 26 Feb 2013 10:24:06 -0800 Oren wrote:

Now that's interesting. The instructions on the bottle simply say to brush on and wait five or ten minutes and wash off.
They say nothing about two coats, and 20 minutes is twice the time it says on the bottle. So, maybe I didn't let it sit long enough...

Ooops. Again, the instructions on the bottle didn't say that. They just said to wash with water. Which is what I did.

I guess I can still treat them again if I wash the oil off.
PS: I hope aioe doesn't give me three posts again!
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Danny:
Can you give me more information on the source of 85 percent concentration phosphoric acid? Is it a retail product or was that what you were quoted from a chemical/lab supply place?
--
nestork

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On Wed, 27 Feb 2013 16:36:30 +0000 nestork wrote:

Sure.
That 85% H3P04 was based on this post I did on Sat 23 Feb at 06:44:45 (UTC):

I'm thinking of buying the stuff, just to experiment with it. With shipping, it should come to something like $18 a liter which would be compared to 3 liters of Naval Jelly to have the same amount of Phosphoric Acid, which would come to about $24 or so.
One thing though, that Naval Jelly is THICK STUFF, which I presume the phosphoric acid isn't as thick - but either one would work for my tools.
Note: I'm having trouble with aioe so I hope this (a) posts, & (b) posts only once! (To make matters worse, Aioe all day said (441 Banlist), probably because they think I'm multiple posting - which is funny because it's only happening with Aioe since I post under multiple nyms and nntp accounts).
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On Thu, 28 Feb 2013 03:14:59 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."

No, it's not. That's one of the advantages of NJ. It can be glopped onto surfaces in any orientation.
I use Boeshield stuff on my cast iron tools. The protectant works quite well, though it's not as slick as I'd like. The rest remover works but takes some elbow grease.

There is an easy solution for that.
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'Danny D.[_8_ Wrote: > ;3022228']

> Industrial Supply Store' > (http://www.dudadiesel.com/search.php?query=phosphoric+acid )

OK, thanks anyhow. By the time I pay shipping charges, brokerage fees to get it across the border and provincial sales tax on it, it'll cost three times as much. I'll just stick with the 40 percent stuff I can get easily here.

You don't really need to buy 85% phosphoric acid. I've never needed anything stronger than the 14 percent stuff I buy in the form of a toilet bowl cleaner, and you can get that almost anywhere.
Phosphoric acid is handy to have around the house because of it's unique properties:
1. It's commonly used as a toilet bowl cleaner because, given a little time, it's strong enough to dissolve anything you'd expect to find in a toilet bowl.
2. It's also commonly used as the active ingredient in bathroom cleaners because it'll cut through soap scum like a hot knife through butter, but won't harm chrome or chrome plating, even at high concentrations. So, you can use it to clean the soap ring off a bathtub without concern that it'll attack the chrome plating on the brass drain at the bottom of the tub. It WILL dissolve cement based tile grout, but only very slowly at a 14% concentration like you find in toilet bowl cleaners, and almost not at all in the 6% concentration you find it in in bathroom cleaners.
3. And, of course, you know that it reacts with rust to form iron phosphate, which is a stable compound that somewhat protects the underlying iron from further rusting.

Ungelled 40 % phosphoric acid is no more viscous than water. 14% gelled phosphoric acid based toilet bowl cleaner is about as viscous as pancake syrup. Both would convert rust to iron phosphate.
Ungelled 40 percent phosphoric acid can be purchased at any place listed under "Janitorial Equipment & Supplies" in your yellow pages phone book. Just phone around to find out who sells "Buckeye International" cleaning chemicals and ask if they stock "Sparkle" bathroom cleaner. If not, they should be able to order it in for you. I wouldn't use Sparkle bathroom cleaner at 40% concentration on cement based ceramic tiling grout without diluting it significantly first.
--
nestork


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