Nearly all cheap soft drinks contain phosphoric acid because it is a cheap substitute for citric acid. Phosphoric acid can be manufactured cheaply to put in junk products like Coca Cola.
I infer you drink/feed your kids on a lot of this shit. You need to give up and have a proper diet.
"Sulfur" isn't Greek. "Phosphor" is.
¬R
...and it gets taken out of the syrup before it goes in the soft drink? Did you actually think about what you wrote? (I know, impossible)
That fact is that you are *WRONG*. You can admit it now.
I didn't do it. Nobody saw nothing. You can't prove a thing.
While I could have bought 85% phosphoric acid for less, I simply went to Home Depot and bought the Naval Jelly.
Here is the picture of some of the newly rusted tools before being pinked:
While I could have bought 85% phosphoric acid for less, I simply went to Home Depot and bought the Naval Jelly.
Here is the picture of some of the newly rusted tools before being pinked:
While I could have bought 85% phosphoric acid for less, I simply went to Home Depot and bought the Naval Jelly.
Here is the picture of some of the newly rusted tools before being pinked:
UPDATE: Thanks everyone for the advice on the phosphoric acid.
Here is a before picture of some of the newly rusted tools:
The pink slime was muuuuch more gloppy than I had expected:
The metal turned black and was washed off in a bucket:
Then it was dried before applying motor oil to the metal:
In hindsight, the rust-spotted chrome worked the best, and the prybar steel worked worst - with the saw blades fairing rather poorly with respect to restoring the original surface:
Within minutes of drying, a white "lard" formed on the tools:
Nobody had mentioned that white lard. Any idea what it is?
UPDATE: Thanks everyone for the advice on the phosphoric acid.
Here is a before picture of some of the newly rusted tools:
The pink slime was muuuuch more gloppy than I had expected:
The metal turned black and was washed off in a bucket:
Then it was dried before applying motor oil to the metal:
In hindsight, the rust-spotted chrome worked the best, and the prybar steel worked worst - with the saw blades fairing rather poorly with respect to restoring the original surface:
Within minutes of drying, a white "lard" formed on the tools:
Nobody had mentioned that white lard. Any idea what it is?
UPDATE: Thanks everyone for the advice on the phosphoric acid.
Here is a before picture of some of the newly rusted tools:
The pink slime was muuuuch more gloppy than I had expected:
The metal turned black and was washed off in a bucket:
Then it was dried before applying motor oil to the metal:
In hindsight, the rust-spotted chrome worked the best, and the prybar steel worked worst - with the saw blades fairing rather poorly with respect to restoring the original surface:
Within minutes of drying, a white "lard" formed on the tools:
Nobody had mentioned that white lard. Any idea what it is?
Jesus. Something is wrong (again) with aioe.org because it just hung and hung.
I see, belatedly, it posted three times!
Sorry about that.
Note: This may post 3 times also (so I will refrain from posting if that happens). I hope aioe can fix themselves soon if that's the case.
Jesus. Something is wrong (again) with aioe.org because it just hung and hung.
I see, belatedly, it posted three times!
Sorry about that.
Note: This may post 3 times also (so I will refrain from posting if that happens). I hope aioe can fix themselves soon if that's the case.
Jesus. Something is wrong (again) with aioe.org because it just hung and hung.
I see, belatedly, it posted three times!
Sorry about that.
Note: This may post 3 times also (so I will refrain from posting if that happens). I hope aioe can fix themselves soon if that's the case.
Now that's interesting. The instructions on the bottle simply say to brush on and wait five or ten minutes and wash off.
They say nothing about two coats, and 20 minutes is twice the time it says on the bottle. So, maybe I didn't let it sit long enough...
Ooops. Again, the instructions on the bottle didn't say that. They just said to wash with water. Which is what I did.
I guess I can still treat them again if I wash the oil off.
PS: I hope aioe doesn't give me three posts again!
Danny:
Can you give me more information on the source of 85 percent concentration phosphoric acid? Is it a retail product or was that what you were quoted from a chemical/lab supply place?
Motor oil works fine. For more delicate stuff like firearms, light oils lik e "Rem Oil," which comes in a nice spray can is excellent. For longer term storage, I like Hoppe's Rust Inhibiting grease. Just apply with a rag in ei ther case.
WD-40 (let the flames begin) is basically kerosene and some sort of solvent carrier. Nice for cleaning stuff up, but minimal rust inhibiting qualities . I live on the DE shore, and salt air is not your friend here. I take all my tools off of the tool board/tool boxes about once every 6 months and wip e them down. Saves a lot of grief.
I have used Naval Jelly on really bad cases, but in general, oil and fine s teel wool seems to be satisfactory. If finish damage is a possibility, I be lieve some people suggest bronze wool, which won't scratch as much.
For some stuff, I've used "Instant Cold Gun Blue" to put a more permanent f inish (you still need oil) on some small tools.
/paul W3FIS
I never understood WD-40 versus plain old motor oil. So I have a can, but I never use it. It lasts forever that way. :)
You'll note that I used a bronze toothbrush (see center in the picture below).
Sure.
That 85% H3P04 was based on this post I did on Sat 23 Feb at 06:44:45 (UTC):
I'm thinking of buying the stuff, just to experiment with it. With shipping, it should come to something like $18 a liter which would be compared to 3 liters of Naval Jelly to have the same amount of Phosphoric Acid, which would come to about $24 or so.
One thing though, that Naval Jelly is THICK STUFF, which I presume the phosphoric acid isn't as thick - but either one would work for my tools.
Note: I'm having trouble with aioe so I hope this (a) posts, & (b) posts only once! (To make matters worse, Aioe all day said (441 Banlist), probably because they think I'm multiple posting - which is funny because it's only happening with Aioe since I post under multiple nyms and nntp accounts).
No, it's not. That's one of the advantages of NJ. It can be glopped onto surfaces in any orientation.
I use Boeshield stuff on my cast iron tools. The protectant works quite well, though it's not as slick as I'd like. The rest remover works but takes some elbow grease.
There is an easy solution for that.
OK, thanks anyhow. By the time I pay shipping charges, brokerage fees to get it across the border and provincial sales tax on it, it'll cost three times as much. I'll just stick with the 40 percent stuff I can get easily here.
You don't really need to buy 85% phosphoric acid. I've never needed anything stronger than the 14 percent stuff I buy in the form of a toilet bowl cleaner, and you can get that almost anywhere.
Phosphoric acid is handy to have around the house because of it's unique properties:
Ungelled 40 % phosphoric acid is no more viscous than water. 14% gelled phosphoric acid based toilet bowl cleaner is about as viscous as pancake syrup. Both would convert rust to iron phosphate.
Ungelled 40 percent phosphoric acid can be purchased at any place listed under "Janitorial Equipment & Supplies" in your yellow pages phone book. Just phone around to find out who sells "Buckeye International" cleaning chemicals and ask if they stock "Sparkle" bathroom cleaner. If not, they should be able to order it in for you. I wouldn't use Sparkle bathroom cleaner at 40% concentration on cement based ceramic tiling grout without diluting it significantly first.
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