What is this white scratchy stuff on the sides and bottom of my pool?

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On Tue, 08 May 2012 15:58:14 -0500, gonjah wrote:

Oh. My mistake. I understand now.
I have no idea 'what' the trucked-in water will consist of ... so that's what you were trying to get at. Sorry for being dense. My fault.
But I think I'll go with the well water anyway as it's good pool water (high calcium).
I'll try to write with results later today.
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On 5/8/2012 4:05 PM, Arklin K. wrote:

No. I was talking about the well water. I'm sure you're doing the right thing.
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On Sun, 06 May 2012 08:10:28 -0700, snipped-for-privacy@optonline.net wrote:

The blue algaecide was about $50 The chlorine shock was about $50 for a 24 pound box at Costco. The bucket of 3" tablets was about $50 at Costco. The muriatic acid was about $25 for a few gallons. The clcium supplement was another $25 at Leslies. And THEN there was the liquid chlorine from Home Depot at about $50 for 12 gallons.
I've rounded all the numbers for the easy math but that's about $250 already, of which more than half was put into the pool - so that's where the rough number came from.
Not to mention 24/7 use of two 10-amp 240v 1.65HP pumps to clean the pool (since one pump can't work alone - this pool requires two due to the lousy self-cleaning system).

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No way I'd be paying $$$ for algaecide and $$$ for shock. I put 5 gallons of 12% liquid chlorine into a 48,000 gallon pool and it kills everything. There are algae that are harder to kill, but I don't believe the common green one is one of them. Even if you put 15 gallons of liq chlorine in, I could do that for $54 and it would have the chlorine up at 20+ ppm unless the pool is olympic size.
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On Sun, 06 May 2012 14:42:49 -0700, snipped-for-privacy@optonline.net wrote:

I agree with you that I likely wasted my money on algecide and shock.
From now on, it's liquid chlorine (and lots of it) for me!
Here's a picture taken this morning. I'm almost done pumping and siphoning out the green water from the deep end!

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I have to disagree that he has to use only liquid chlorine. There is nothing wrong with using trichlor tablets. I use them without any problem and they are not only easier but cheaper than liquid chlorine. Each has it's place if used properly and you understand the pros and cons of each.
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On Tue, 08 May 2012 08:58:01 -0700, snipped-for-privacy@optonline.net wrote:

I think my regimen, once I fix the cracked Jandy valve and wash the pool walls with the 29% muriatic acid I just bought at Leslies, will be to take all your advice (although some is conflicting).
0. Replace & replumb the Jandy valve area and wash the pool walls with HCl.
1. Fill the pool with the well water (high in calcium at 200ppm which is good for the pool, high in total alkalinity at 150 ppm, and high in phosphates at 100 ppb).
2. Shock with liquid HASA chlorine from the Sunnyvale-Saratoga road store in Saratoga, California.
3. Fill the three floaters with trichlor from Costco or Home Depot (most available chlorine per dollar).
I will need to adjust the pH as needed. I'll need to figure out what can be done about phosphates. I may have to bump the cyanuric acid level up to the bare minimum (it will grow with the trichlor tablets so I don't want to put too much).
And, that should be about it for chemicals (I hope) other than weekly liquid HASA chlorine shock.
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On Tue, 08 May 2012 15:57:21 -0700, SMS wrote:

Does anyone have a good recommendation for the phosphate remover? My well water is already high in the phosphates according to a test today at Leslies of the tap water (from my well).
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On 5/8/2012 9:59 PM, Arklin K. wrote:

-- X-No-Archive: Yes
http://www.saltcells.com/phosphate-remover-orenda-pr10000-p-875.html
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On 5/6/2012 3:52 PM, Arklin K. wrote:

$50/bucket? What size bucket? If it's the 40# one that's a decent price. Last I checked it was much higher. I paid at least $75 at Costco.
$25 for a few gallons of muriatic acid (?) that sounds high.
Algaecide?..... LOL. What's that? ;)
I've found Lowe's to be a cheap source for calcium chloride but you can get it much cheaper online. I don't need much.
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On Tue, 08 May 2012 08:29:40 -0700, SMS wrote:

Living in the Silicon Valley, as you do, I don't want to waste money on chemicals (we're already paying through the nose for the sun).
I had my well water tested at Leslies just now and it came up with phospates at 100 ppb (which is just about the pool limit) and total alkalinity of 150 ppm which is higher than the suggested range and calcium hardness of >200 ppm which is in the right range for a pool.
The pH was 7.6 but that will change with chemicals.
I bought a few gallons of the 29% muriatic acid (aka HCl) to scrub the pool walls down with - and which will be used, as needed, in the pool.
Liquid chlorine I'll get from HASA in that store in Saratoga you suggested (I have a coupon from the value pack as you suggested ... normally I chuck that entire envelope - but I leafed through it at your suggested and it was there as you noted). Also is on the web site.
I'm not sure how to lower phosphates though ...
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On Tue, 08 May 2012 16:00:06 -0700, SMS wrote:

Nope. If that's your 'real' email address, I can mail to you where I am so you'll understand. Think hills behind your house.

Ah. Got it!
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On 5/6/2012 9:19 AM, Arklin K. wrote:

In *extreme* situations you can use floc, let the particles settle, then vacuum.
http://www.zearth.com/products/PoolCenter.com/images/hero_124298.jpg

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On Sun, 06 May 2012 10:04:03 -0500, gonjah wrote:

One problem with the aluminum flocculent in my pool is there is no vacuum. The pool is designed to be 'self cleaning' (yeah, like high school kids are self policing).
Anyway, maybe I 'should' have used the flocculent and then 'rented' a pool vacuum to get the stuff off the bottom ... but that's too late now!
http://picturepush.com/public/8203391
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On 5/6/2012 3:46 PM, Arklin K. wrote:

It doesn't have a skimmer? I thought I saw one. My vacuum works through the skimmer. It's a pretty simple operation.
http://www.americasbestpoolsupply.com/ewebeditpro4/upload/skimvac2.gif
http://media.photobucket.com/image/recent/wallace1sk/Sale%252520items/2012_04_07_n900__SALE_PoolVacuumWithHose.jpg
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On Sun, 06 May 2012 15:56:18 -0500, gonjah wrote:

Nope. The skimmers (both of them) are wholly unfiltered!
Other than the skimmer basket and pump basket, anything sucked up by the skimmer goes right BACK into the pool! I know. It's weird. IMHO, it's stupid - but that's the way Lifetime and Paramount build pools.
Here's a brochure describing the Paramount PCC2000 "self-cleaning" pool system: http://www.1paramount.com/products/pcc /
Basically, the skimmers only skim the huge stuff. Everything else goes back into the pool, unfiltered so that the dozen rotating pop-up heads push the crud to the deep end of the pool.
Once at the deep end, it's soooo steep (45 degrees!) that the crud can't get back out. The filter pump pulls the crud from the bottom of the deep end and that is the only filtered water.
Here's a picture of the shallow end leading to the deep end. http://picturepush.com/public/8203391
And, here's a picture of me failing to remove one of the pop up cleaner heads: http://picturepush.com/public/8203134
I can't seem to understand HOW these things remove, even taking into account the special tool and the fact they're reverse threaded.
Here's a picture of the two cleaner heads that control the dozen pop up rotating spray cleaners:

In theory, it should keep the pool clean - but in reality, it stinks.
The problem is there is no way to hook up a vacuum that I can figure out as the vacuum hooked to the skimmers simply blows the crud right back into the pool via the pop up cleaner heads!
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On 5/6/2012 4:28 PM, Arklin K. wrote:

Makes me appreciate my mess. :)
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...
...
Clearly, you are not supposed to vacuum the pool.
I read the web page, all the crap heads to the deep end, then the filter sucks it in leaving the large debris in a canister. Clean water re-enters the pool.
Sounds like it would work.
When opening the pool, you might have to clear the filter multiple times.
--
Dan Espen

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On Sun, 06 May 2012 20:26:16 -0400, Dan Espen wrote:

Yes. Understood. I will have to pressure wash it.
Plus, the debris canister gets filled to the brim with leaves and stuff so it has to be dumped often.
Basically, the pool is designed with a VERY SHARP deep end. Then the dozen popup heads push the debris toward this deep end where it can't get out.
Then the filter pulls it out into the debris canister and then on to the filter, and then back to the pool.
Here's a picture of the pool empty showing the shape. You can see the popup heads in the middle of the bottom of the pool: http://picturepush.com/public/8204345
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On 5/6/2012 11:02 PM, Arklin K. wrote:

The idea is bizarre. I'll stick with my Polaris. Taking care of a pool is really not that difficult. I think the old KISS rule applies here.
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