On Mon, 12 Jul 2010 21:29:02 -0700 (PDT), Harry K wrote:
I appreciate your input. I can't say why the factory doesn't tap those
holes, but, they have arrows and something like the words "tap here" on
them and all the Briggs and Stratton instrucions say to tap them, so, it's
pretty clear what to do (once you know the answer).
I suspect the reason they don't tap them ahead of time is pure cost; albeit
it can't cost a lot.
See these references, all of which say to tap the holes when pulling the
flywheel on a Briggs and Stratton engine:
I disagree with this. Some things are built with marks or pilot holes
so the technician knows where to drill for maintenance.
A perfect example are the 3 dimples that Ford puts in their doors so
the tech will know where to drill the holes to gain access to the
three screws that holds the power window motor in place.
Um, yes, yes it is.
Nearly every household in America has a hammer and a screwdriver of
Few households have "harmonic balancer pullers," a very specialized
If you understand basic physics, the technique is not confusing at
all, is very simple, and very effective.
On Mon, 12 Jul 2010 11:05:38 -0700 (PDT), firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
So that makes three (somewhat similar) explanations so far:
1. Vibrations allow the friction to lesson
2. Move the crankshaft down 1/8th of an inch moves the flywheel up
3. Try to move the crankshaft down; it can't; so the flywheel moves up
On Mon, 12 Jul 2010 13:07:40 -0700 (PDT), JIMMIE wrote:
I don't disagree. :)
I'll have to snap some pictures though, as you'll need to see that if
you're going to go 360 degrees around the flywheel, you have to pry on
SOMETHING in all directions and the intake manifold was in front, across
the entire front of the engine, crossing from the air intake on one side to
the valve mechanism on the other side.
Of course, if I knew that dirty gray pipe crossing the front of the engine
was brittle plastic, I would have given up on the pry-bar method. Besides,
knowing what I know now, nobody in his right mind would pry on anything to
get this type of flywheel off.
The right way to do it, I found out belatedly, is to tap the two
pre-existing holes with a 1/4x20 tap and simply use a harmonic balancer to
lift the flywheel up almost effortlessly. The force is high, but the effort
is low due to mechanical leverage.
On Mon, 12 Jul 2010 21:37:15 -0700 (PDT), Harry K wrote:
It's true I couldn't do it, but PLEASE LOOK at the picture here! (If not
for yourself, then for the sake of the next guy that gets the advice to
whack the crankshaft.)
Notice, once the flywheel is cleaned and chalked, it clearly has embossed
on the face "TO REMOVE, USE WHEEL PULLER HOLES". It has two big arrows
pointing to those untapped wheel puller holes.
Very many web pages, it turns out, state to tap the holes and use a wheel
puller that fits into the holes. Even the Briggs and Stratton web sites and
Sears sells the wheel puller that fits into these holes (once tapped).
So all I'm saying, for the next guy, not for me, is:
1. DO NOT bang and pry this type of Briggs & Stratton flywheel
2. The correct approach is to tape two 1/4 x 20 holes & use the Briggs &
Stratton or Sears flywheel puller, part number BS 19069.
I thank everyone, yes everyone. Especially since I have NEVER before worked
on a lawnmower so I was very clumsy and broke a lot of things. But let's
all learn so as not to lead the next guy astray. The way to remove THIS
flywheel is not to bang on the crankshaft but to more gently lift up from
the pre-drilled un-tapped holes.
On Mon, 12 Jul 2010 17:32:53 -0700 (PDT), ransley wrote:
Allow me to clarify. I didn't drill anything. All I did was tap the two
pre-drilled holes in the flywheel. They are there, it turns out, expressly
for the purpose of removing the flywheel.
Apparently the proper way to remove this type of Briggs and Stratton
flywheel is NOT to bang down on the crankshaft while prying up; nor is it
to lift up on the edges with a flywheel puller; but it is to lift up from
near the center with the two bolts in those pre-drilled holes.
For some reason, Briggs and Stratton prefers us to tap the holes ourselves,
which I did with a 1/4 x 20 tap. Once I did that, the flywheel lifted up
easily with a harmonic balancer puller.
Point is not many people seem to know this so that's why the word needs to
go out that the other methods are deprecated for this type of motor.
On Tue, 13 Jul 2010 09:18:31 -0500, Steve Barker wrote:
I thank everyone for their help but let's not lead the next guy astray
In addition to the instructions belatedly found in the Sears and Briggs &
Stratton PDFs previously listed, in response to this post, I further
cleaned and chalked the flywheel and posted a picture of it here:
Short link: http://yfrog.com/jobriggsandstrattonflywhejx
Stamped right on the Briggs & Stratton flywheel are the embossed words:
"TO REMOVE, USE WHEEL PULLER HOLES", with arrows pointing to the two holes.
If you don't believe me, please see the photo below (and please let's all
agree that the right way to remove THIS flywheel is to tap the holes and
pull with the Briggs & Stratton flywheel puller P/N: BS 19069.
Thanks again for all the wonderful help!
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