Most of us are betting that nothing will.
Most of us are betting that nothing will.
Using a gear puller alone (by cranking it hard rather than using a hammer) will warp the flywheel and perhaps cause stress fractures.
When you use a proper prybar and hammer, the prybatr is lifting at the center, not an inch away from the center. The tip of the prybar should be against the crankshaft.
The OP now has a flywheel of very questionable safety.
Darwin was a pretty smart guy.
Those holes are used during manufacture for alignment pins.
Know how they remove a flywheel at the B&S factory? Yep. Prybar and a hammer. That's standard procedure.
Even if you DO use a puller, you STILL bang on the crankshaft as you GENTLY and GRADUALLY apply pressure with the puller.
Flywheels are surprisingly delicate
No, you ruined your flywheel by doing the right things the wrong way. You are simply inept.
I'm sure there are probably some things that you are good at. There may even be some things that you are VERY GOOD at. Fixing machinery, however, is OBVIOUSLY not on that list.
Thank you, Doctor. I concur.
At this point I wonder if you are a troll. You come here for advice, you get it, it is confirmed by everyone who ever actually worked on small engines, you then spend hours trying to prove them wrong. There is little doubt a puller does a fine job on that task, I have a box full of them, many do only one specific task, box must weigh over 50 pounds, there are some tasks that they are the only way to accomplish. This task was was, deliberately I think kept to minimum tools required. This is a tried and true method. I have a friend like you; he comes up with a problem and goes person to person asking for advice. He never takes it, he does what he was going to do anyhow, he just likes asking and getting advice. He is more polite than you, he doesn't argue, he just ignores everything you say. By any chance are you a Sagittarius?
You saw it bend? They don't do much bending, but they do crack. Throw it out, you ruined it.
WRONG WRONG WRONG again. That is NOT what those holes are for
WRONG WRONG WRONG again. That is NOT what those holes are for
WRONG WRONG WRONG again. That is NOT what those holes are for
WRONG WRONG WRONG again. That is not the only way. Actually, it's not a way at all. Those holes are not tapped, so therefore a puller can't be used.
NO ONE suggested "banging on the flywheel". You are WRONG WRONG WRONG again.
WRONG WRONG WRONG again. That is NOT what those holes are for.
It actually takes about 4 seconds.
There must be 100 special tools that are "required" to work on things I've worked on. I've done just fine without once buying them, thank you. Just because a manufacturer sells a tool for a job does not make that the "right way". And just because you say it does not make it so either. If it does the job without damage and is quick and cheap - it's the right way. Especially if it avoids having to order and pay, and wiat for a special tool.
Um, yes, yes it is.
Nearly every household in America has a hammer and a screwdriver of some sort.
Few households have "harmonic balancer pullers," a very specialized tool.
If you understand basic physics, the technique is not confusing at all, is very simple, and very effective.
When I answered this you hadn't.
:)
I think he has clearly proven you can. I you don't mind looking like a .....
Actually, I took the advice I was given.
I even bought the recommended Briggs & Stratton flywheel puller tool which is supposed to protect the threads of the crankshaft as you bang on it (see the photos).
Partly because I screwed up royally (I always said this is the FIRST lawnmower engine I've ever worked on). But also partly because I found out after the method failed for me that it isn't the recommended method.
To be precise, I'm SURE the method works for most of you. I'm absolutely positive of that, even if I'm not quite sure HOW it works - it certainly must work for most of you because you all say so.
Anyway, I took all your advice. I screwed up. I found a better way (at least from my perspective). And I took photos of it. I annotated those photos. And I responded to all the serious queries.
I do thank you all. Jim
I have used both methods...I know there are times when a puller (the proper one) will NOT work without the accompanied blow of the hammer. This is due to the tapered shaft and the die-cast materiel of the fly- wheel that tend to bond together. The loosen, wedge, whack...is the preferred method by most small engine mechanics that I have seen or known. bob_v
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