Two chips out of tub. Looks like ?? disgruntled home owner? Or, maybe
a workman dropped a tool.
Anyway need to find out the easieist, best porcelain repair kit to use
on this white tub.
I would like to post pictures, before and after, but haven't been able
to park the pictures in a public spot. Can I send a couple of pictures
to someone to post? I tried to gain access to public pic posting when
I posted a question about an exterior painting problem, but at every
public website tried, can't even pick up a picture! let alone try to
Or, is there some photo parking spot that might work? Will this gmail
account let me park them for public access?
'Robert Macy[_2_ Wrote:
> ;3077834']Two chips out of tub. Looks like ?? disgruntled home owner?
> Or, maybe
Google Porc-a-fix Paint.
If you don't get any hits, post again and I'll look up the info for the
Canadian Distributor, and they would know the contact information for
the factory, who in turn would know who their US distributor is.
Porc-a-fix Paint is a hard drying oil based paint that comes pretinted
to match all the colours that both Crane and American Standard used in
all of their bath tubs since the 1950's when coloured bathroom fixtures
The tiny bottle of Porc-a-fix you buy comes with a small sheet of
instructions and two small pieces of sandpaper. Both should be thrown
in the garbage where they belong.
Mix up the Porc-a-fix to a uniform colour by stirring it. Dip a
toothpick into the Porc-a-fix and then touch the end of the toothpick to
the chip and move the toothpick around so that the paint drains off the
toothpick onto the chip.
Cover the whole chip that way.
Once the paint is dry to the touch (within a few hours) use a single
edge razor blade to shave the excess paint off the chip. Be careful to
hold the razor so that if follows the contour of the tub. If your chip
is on a corner where you can't do that, then just leave the excess paint
on to dry.
Porc-a-fix used to be made by KIT Industries, but they've since been
sold to a different US company that is continuing production of these
paints. Porc-a-fix also comes in a number of colours that major
appliance manufacturers like GE and Frigidaire used for their stove cook
I own a small apartment block, and I've been using Porc-a-fix to repair
chips in bathtubs for over 25 years now. I don't know if it's the best
porcelain chip repair available. So far as I know, it's the ONLY
porcelain chip repair system available for coloured tubs. If your tub
is white, you could probably use any white Testor's plastic model paint
to do the repair providing you get a reasonable colour match on the
If the chip is on the bottom of the tub, and deep enough so that the
steel is exposed and rusting, it's best to coat the chip with epoxy
before painting it to match the surrounding colour. If that's the case,
post again and I'll explain a good way to apply epoxy to the chip.
> made in the last 20 years or more are fiberglass with gelcoat on them.
> You can still get real porcelain but you pay a lot for it.
He's talking about a steel tub with a porcelain enamel finish on it.
"Porcelain enamel" is a special kind of powder coating. It's not the
same kind of porcelain that toilet bowls, toilet tanks and bathroom
sinks are made of. It's a powdered plastic (usually polyester) that
gets electrostatically sprayed onto the steel and then baked so that the
polyester plastic resins melt and fuse together to form a smooth and
very hard coating over the steel.
It depends entirely on the Tg (glass transition temperature) of the
(aside: plastics don't have fixed melting temperatures like pure solid
materials (like ice or copper). Instead, they have a temperature range
over which they go from a soft and flexible material to a hard and
brittle material. The middle of that temperature range is called the
"glass transition temperature" or "Tg".)
Just because something is hard, doesn't mean it's not made of plastic.
It's just a different kind of plastic than you're used to.
I am not at all familiar with the process described in the web page Vic
Smith linked to whereby an enamel frit is dusted onto an iron or steel
tub that's well above the frit's melting temperature. I would be
concerned that heating the steel would result in it rusting rapidly,
even before the molten frit has had a chance to coat the tub and prevent
the oxygen in the air to come into contact with the hot iron or steel.
In the process called "powder coating" that I am familiar with, a
mixture of plastic resins (commonly polyester plastic) and coloured
solid particles (called "pigments") are electrostatically sprayed onto a
metal object. (most commonly the object being powder coated is metal,
That powder coated metal object is then baked in a large oven at
typically about 350 degrees F for a half hour or so.
The heat both melts the plastic resins and causes them to chemically
crosslink very densely with each other. As the plastic resins melt,
they flow together to form a smooth plastic film over the metal object
with the coloured pigments suspended inside that film very much like
raisins inside raisin bread.
When that "powder coating" cools, it's very much more durable than field
applied coatings like polyurethane or epoxy floor paints.
'The Powder Coating Institute' (http://www.powdercoating.org /)
'What is Powder Coating | The Powder Coating Institute'
Some common examples of things that are powder coated instead of painted
are the steel deck of a gas or electric lawn mower or the steel scoop of
a snow blower, a steel bicycle frame and steel or aluminum patio
Porcelain enamel is a kind of powder coating that differs from powder
coating only in that the baking occurs at a higher temperature.
Generally, if the baking temperature is below about 700 degrees F, the
coating is called a "powder coating", but if the baking occurs above 700
degrees F, the resulting coating is called "porcelain enamel".
Generally, the higher the baking temperature, the harder and more
durable the resulting coating will be.
Even though the process used in porcelain enamel coatings is identical
to that of powder coating, the porcelain enamelers have their own web
'Porcelain Enamel Institute' (http://www.porcelainenamel.com /)
'Plumbing and Sanitaryware - Porcelain Enamel Institute'
The "glass lining" on the inside of your water heater is a porcelain
enamel. The cooktop of a gas or electric stove will be powder coated
because paints couldn't stand up to those temperatures without softening
and discolouring. The clothes tumbler drum and top of a clothes dryer
will typically be powder coated if they're made of steel.
And, since porcelain enamels become harder and more durable with baking
temperature, the hardest and most durable porcelain enamel inside your
house is probably the blueish grey coating on the interior of your
stove's steel oven. That coating was baked on at about 1300 degrees F,
which is why self clean cycles of 900 deg. F won't harm it.
Thank you, excellent suggestion to throw away that sandpaper.
Luckily no rusting, since chip(s) is on the front lip of the tub.
About 1 inch by 3/4 inch like someone dropped their pipe wrench, or a
heavy 4 ft metal pipe had been standing outside the tub and was
allowed to fall onto the edge. Thus, front lip and about the right
angle of hit.
There are two chips, but the other one is smaller, 1/4 inch by 1/4
inch or so. Like who ever dented did it twice.
This tub is white so should be easy to match. With that size and ease
of color match [white, but please no yellowing with time] is that
paint kit still the best?
If you're suggesting patience to fill and shave, fill and shave, etc
No problem. You're talking to a guy that took 3 hours to fix an $8
hair dryer! And, and to rework a badly weathered 9 ft by 18 ft tongue
and groove porch floor, manually sanded [we're talking about a floor
painted with some kind of antique-like armour! I don't know what they
used years ago, but that old gray porch paint is either rubbery or
harder than sandpaper] to refinish and paint to match exterior color
then seal with multiple clear floor 'paint', [didn't like the paint
effect] manually sanded again to strip my own paint, then used a hand
grout saw [wore out three of them] to get all the weathered wood and
dirt out of the cracks [with dry rot, some cracks opened to over 1/4
inch. these were narrow floor boards too I calculated two city blocks
of linear length] then filled the cracks with Minwax two part wood
epoxy fill and oil finished the floor for a beautiful natural wood
look. Only to find that the MinWax epoxy product was doing physically
what I wanted - perfectly adhering the flooring into a solid slab BUT
had a noticeable green tinge making the floor look obnoxiously
striped. So,...manually sanded all off again, and PAINTED the epoxy in
the cracks with my wife's tiny artist brushes to match each adjacent
wood grain, blending in the range of colors and the grain for each
board beside each crack. Then put on three coats of heavy oil base,
again hand sanding to flatten between each coat. Result after about 3
months? A beautiful, natural looking redwood porch floor and preserved
the 100 year old flooring to meet my goal of keeping the home as close
to the original as possible.
Regarding "This tub is white so should be easy to match" I'm not trying to
dash your hopes but "white" is probably the most difficult color to match
that there is because there are so *many* variations of it.
If the kit that you buy is for a color of a specific manufacturer, you
should have no/few problems. If it is not - judging by what you detailed in
your last paragraph - you should also meet success by proceeding in a
similar manner with the tub. One hint: it is often easier to get a good
color match by stippling various colors with a tiny brush than by painting
the entire surface.
True, the spectrum involved makes for interesting matches. My main
concern is that the patch will yellow with time. That will show.
Anything is better than that black showing through. Amazingly, when we
asked our realtor for details photos of the chipped damage, she was
surprised since she hadn't noticed the chips until we mentioned, and
she had been showing the home for over 18 months!
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