What fasteners to attach wood 2 x 4 to Cinder block foundation walls

[Fred Zimmerman]

I want to put up wood shelving (2 x 4) in my basement, which consists of cinder block foundation walls.

Can I use standard masonry screws or lag bolts to attach 2" x 4" lengths to the cinder block walls? Do I need additional fastener hardware? (eg. butterflies, special washers or inserts, etc.) Do I risk cracking or splitting the cinder blocks themselves with my hammer/drill?

Thanks.

F.Z. Newton MA

[Tom Pendergast]

How I would do it: Use a hammer drill to drill 1/2 holes in the block and use lead anchors that will hold lag bolts. Stagger them going up the 2x4, and make one vertical row fall right on a mortar seam. The holes/bolts that are going into the body of a block are prone to falling in sometimes (remember it's hollow behind that hole in many spots) and you need to work gingerly until the anchor really grabs the hole.

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[JSin]

There are several options. You should use a liner of some sort. This can be platic for light wieght or the larger lead shields for heavier duty. Take care with the lead shields if your sizing is off they can crack the face when they separate as you torque them. Another product to look at is TAPCON these are softer material screws that collapse their threads and create their own anchor when driven in. Nice product and almost no chance of splitting. You do have to use thier bit though because the size of the hole is absolutely critical and the sizing of the cheaper masonary bits varies enough that they may not bite.

In terms of drilling Cinder block is not hard at all they will tend to try to split when torque is applied but they are fine with heat and compression. So drill straight with your hammer drill and let the tool do the work. This isn't to save the block but rather your bit. A little water to lubricate and cool the are will not hurt either.

[Heathcliff Bambino]

Are you sure they are cinderblock not concrete block? If they were concrete block you could use a nail gun (like I did). If cinderblock, see the previous post. Another option would be to run 2X4 standards from floor to ceiling, attaching them to the sill plate or joists at the top and maybe applying some construction adhesive on the backside to prevent any shifting around. Basically the weight of the shelves will just press the standards against the wall, provided they are attached securely at the top. That might be easier than all the drilling and anchors and such.

[Tom Pendergast]

Gulp. I always thought those were just two differnet names for the same thing? 'round these parts we call them "concrete blocks", and I figured the "cinder" thing was just a regional variation. Uhhh, if you got a second, what's the difference? TP

-- _________________________________________ If u are gonna say that I said something, please say what I REALLY said. ($1 Earl)

[Tim Davis]

Also consider, if you have one or can borrow one, the cartridge powered fastening systems. I just bought a Remington brand trigger-actuated .22 cal powered nailer, and it's the nuts. The directions (quite exstensive) that came with the tool describe using this type of fastening system for 2X4 lumber to brick or block walls. The only caveat seems to be to make sure that you power-nail into horizontal mortar joints and never vertical ones. I used mine with the 2 1/2" washered nails to attach 2X4 plates to a poured concrete basement floor, and it worked great.

[Oscar_lives]

HACK!!!

If you don't know, keep your mouth shut!!!

HACK!!!