I am pissed off about my GE profile washer breaking down in just 2+ years I owned it. If my attempts to repair it are unsuccessful, I will be looking for another washer.
So.
My question is, what currewnt brand of them is most reliable.
Testimony such as "I owned my XXX brand washer for 20 years and it never broke", does not really help as everybody has cheapened out since then.
Any brand or model suggestions will be appreciated.
thanks Thanks
Most reliable is commercial grade, most manufacturers have them and sears sells them. We had one 30 yrs and the dryer maybe 35, we even used them commercially in an apt for years. New stuff is junk, light, and cheap. Just compare weight of commercial to non commercial units. Everything in them is bigger and stronger. My newer non commercial unit had the lid switch loose from the factory, it was plastic so it broke off just out of warranty.
I tend to agree with you.
You are in Chicago area, I buy used quality stoves and friges from a guy on the South Side. He sells washers and commercial units cheap, Great stoves installed for 150$ I bought 3 they would be 7-800 new. Commercial washer units id be suspect of since they are abused. But for a $ he would drive and has deals. Let me know if you want an alternative. He does offer a warranty and is my suplier so I could push him if he fails to honor a breakdown. But if you have the cash Commercial is rated 10x? more cycles for only 2x the price. What a shame are disposable society is at.
Our cheap Frigidaire Gallery frontloader is still going strong after 6 years of service doing about 5 loads a week, sometimes more depending on who's living in the house.
Your first place to start research is Consumer Reports. Their reports are factual, what you glean from the newsgroups is anecdotal. Your call on which to place the most value.
Joe
I bought a Frigidair washer and dryer based upon Consumer Reports. The washer and dryer were crap. I no longer read Consumer Reports.
When my direct-drive Kenmore washer quit working we talked to Sears and was told that only the front-load machines now are direct-drive (I haven't looked inside them, this is just what we were told). The top-loaders are all belt-drive. This sounds like crap to me but when you add the plastic gearbox and the short warranty it sounds like a bad deal to me. We were looking at the lower priced models (under $500) so maybe the more expensive ones are better. I decided to fix my old washer. I turned out to be easy to repair (once I figured out what was wrong) and the parts are fairly easy to find for a resonable price.
If you burn Hydrogen in an Oxygen environment, you get "fresh water."
All other water is "used" water.
Water is the ultimate reusable resourse. And, if you look at your water bill, none of the charge is for the water itself - water is basically free. You're really paying for the delivery.
In a washing machine, saving water also means saving HOT water.
I can't be sure about the modern ones. But the one I use is Whirlpool, and I've been totally pleased with it. Mine is older than 1994. So, my experience may not be the same for you. Quality has suffered, a lot.
My water is free. Just makes sense to use less if you don't need more. And I wash in cold water.
"Stormin Mormon" wrote in news:gnq8a7 $hsa$ snipped-for-privacy@news.motzarella.org:
You're saying yesterdays Whirlpool may be today's cesspool? :-)
snipped-for-privacy@dog.com wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:
And possibly sewer charges. From what I've seen, for every $1 in water use there is a $2 sewer charge. So, if you save $5 in water you really save $15.
No, fool! Today's whirlpool might be a cesspool, but the old fool knows no fool like an old whirlpool. I didn't learn that in school. Use the tool, sit on the stool, and wash in the whirlpool. Know I'm sayin', fool?
Why can you get a four function calculator at a Dollar Tree, and that includes solar power or battery. But a two function board for a washing machine is a couple C'notes?
The Kenmore I have was made by Whirlpool. Now I wish I'd kept my old Whirlpool even though it was belt-drive. I figured it was pretty much worn out (after 10 years of my wife) so I kept the motor, pump, selenoid etc and tossed the rest. Now I think I could have fixed it.
Good point, but how much hot water are you saving? I'm not arguing with you guys I'm just asking. What is the water capacity with an average front-loader as opposed to a top-loader? I have a well and use as little water as possible/needed but if it only adds up to a couple hundred gallons a year then I would have to consider how much that is worth compared to the cost of a front-loader...
When I was trying to diagnose my top-loader I came across MANY sites and discussions about front-loader problems. Most of the problems were quite expensive. I was not even looking for this information. They sound like way too much maintenance.
Sewers are metered now?
>
No transmission? How does it agitate?
As sa dog points out
front loaders extract more water mechanically (spin) which leaves much less to evaporate off via the dryer.
significant savings in the typical install comes from lower hot water usage... cold water is gallons per penny, hot water is pennies per gallon.
rebates from water & electrical suppliers lower the cost more
Still, at price front of most front loader sets....its gonna take some time to pay off. But if you need new machines any way.........
cheers Bob
The Fisher-Paykel machines are mid-priced top loaders (about $650) that use less water like the front loaders, and leave the clothes almost dry. Unlike the front loaders, however, they don't need special and very expensive soap. In fact, they use regular soap, and half as much of it as a regular top loader.
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