what are you guys using for rust removal/paint prep?

Hi all,
am thrashing on Jeep again... vehicle is mostly rust free (surprisingly, since it's from PA) but I've started ripping the old rear bumper and gas tank skid plate off so as to install a new rear bumper that isn't made from poop and fail, and has proper D-ring tabs and a Class 3 receiver for it.
So far, I've managed to destroy everything that I needed to and nothing that I didn't want to, so I've got that going for me.
However, as part of this exercise, me being as I am, all of the little bits that came off that need to go back on I would like to have cleaned and painted so that they won't be overly rusty (or just plain gone) in another 14 years when I take it apart again (or more likely, my cousin's little son, who thinks this Jeep is the greatest thing since sliced bread, does.)
My usual weapon of choice is the magic derusting tank, the electrolytic thing that if you haven't used yet, you should. Basically just take a large plastic (non-conductive) container, a piece of scrap steel, some water, and a little bit of washing soda to make the water conductive, hook your 12V power supply or old battery charger up to the scrap (+ive) and piece you want to clean up (-ive) let sit for a few hours et voila. Nothing short of miraculous.
Well, that alone caused an issue, I've been using the crap out of the thing and I'm nearly out of washing soda. Apparently Ace Hardware is the ONLY store in my area that sells it anymore - I called or stopped by all of the grocery stores, big box hardware stores, Target, Wal-Mart, etc. - no can do. But at least I have some, and also found a pool supply place that will sell me some soda ash if I go back with a container (which I probably will, because they're much closer than the nearest Ace.)
Next issue - the gas tank skid plate. It's far bigger than my container, and even just the flanges where the rust is won't fit in. So I figured I'd drop back and mechanically remove as much as I can (angle grinder, then wire brush) then finish with some phosphoric acid solution e.g. "Metal Ready" or similar and just use some rust-oleum rusty metal crap which I normally hate because it's so soft but hey, it's not going to get damaged and I'll just coat it with roofing tar anyway where it mates to the frame rails.
Issue: Phosphoric acid, "metal ready" etc. seems to also be similarly off the shelves of anywhere that I'd expect to find it. I did pick up a jug of something called "Evapo-Rust" we will see how that works out but I have to admit that I'm awful skeptical of anything that I haven't used before because nothing that I've found ever seems to work any better than the two old reliables, phosphoric acid and the electrolytic tanks.
Where are you guys finding phosphoric acid, or are you all having the same problems?
I'm starting to think that $250 for a shiny new skid plate, while a lot of money, might not be exorbitant considering the PITA that this exercise is turning out to be given all the time that I've spent trying to find supplies and not waving a spray bomb or turning wrenches...
nate
--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Nate Nagel wrote:

Nate you have been walking right past TONS of washing soda in the Wal~Mart. Target as well. It is cleverly hidden though. Go to the pool chemicals and look for a product called pH Plus. If you want a larger amount hit a pool supply place. It is 99-100% pure Sodium Carbonate aka Washing Soda aka Soda Ash.
I buy it in 40 pound bags for my tanks.
Phosphoric acid is available at most body shop supply places. I buy it from a local outfit in plastic 5 gallon pails and mix it down. I have seen it at the local Home Depot. Sold as a concrete cleaner.
Evapo-Rust works but you need to soak the part in it for it to work very well, and warming it helps a lot. I use it for small stuff. Doesn't stink like most other methods.
Oh if you want a CHEAP and easy large tank there are a couple options. One buy one of the cheap kiddie pools and use it. OR take a chunk of pool liner fabric and a few pallets and toss together a tank. I did this with a small trailer frame. Oh and don't forget you could do it one half at a time!
--
Steve W.

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 04/02/2013 09:52 PM, Steve W. wrote:

yeah... local stores don't have pool chemical section. I did find a local pool supply that will sell me some however so that's fixed, I just need to run back there someday with a container because the guy was cool and was going to sell me some but couldn't find anything to put it in.

I've already tried the Despot, my local one doesn't sell it for some reason. closest auto body supply is about an hour's drive away, but I might need to make the pilgrimage :( Theoretically West Marine (not that much more convenient, about a half hour drive) carries Ospho, but they're out of stock...

yeah I know but currently I'm renting so this might cause issues...
I'm still surprised that this is so hard to pull together... doesn't anyone work on their own stuff and clean and paint as they go anymore?
Honestly, I was thinking this would be one of those deals, run to the store, pick up some Ospho, brush, rinse, rattle can, done. Not so much...
nate
--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

I've used quite a bit of http://www.duplicolor.com/products/rustFix/ spray. I usually clean off the surface of loose rust before spraying but I've also used it to spray into areas that just can't be gotten to. On metal that I've cleaned pretty well first it will leave a purplish hue. On rust it does turn it more or less black. It's some sort of clear "paint" with phosphoric acid or something like that mixed in. Smells different then typical spray paint. One fuzzy rust you need several applications. You can spray regular paint over it.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

I'd think a man of your purported experience would have foreseen that, not to mention the folly of restoring an underbody wear item.
Your issues suggest an episode of The Andy Griffith Show where Barney finds Usenet.
How you found a pool supply that doesn't sell sodium carbonate in containers is, of course, only par for your typical anecdotal tales of extraordinary circumstances. -----
- gpsman
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 04/03/2013 11:44 AM, gpsman wrote:

If I don't "restore" everything then what do I do?
Buy a whole new vehicle?
Are you volunteering to make the payments?
Oh, wait, there's not even a comparable vehicle made today, at least not by Jeep... but if you'd like to buy me a Land Rover or something like that...
Every part that I've unbolted has cleaned up quite nicely save for one little sheetmetal shield (likely uncoated from the factory) which was $8 and change for a new one and aforementioned skid plate simply because it's too big to fit in the magic tank - which has done an admirable job on everything else.

It's more that I'm used to living in an area where my local hardware store doesn't give me blank stares when I ask for normal things like washing soda or Ospho. Sadly, that store is now not only four hours away but also has been out of business for several years. One would think that living in a major metropolitan area would make items easier to obtain, not harder - and yet as time goes by I find myself having to plan ahead and order online more and more common items that you just can't get in stores.

Are you accusing me of lying, oh ye of limited intelligence?
The guy's exact quote was "we don't typically sell it to customers, we just use it on our mobile service trucks - but if you come back with a container I'll hook you up."
nate
--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

t

g

Nice red herring/straw man.
Newsgroups: alt.home.repair,rec.autos.tech Subject: what are you guys using for rust removal/paint prep? Date: Tue, 02 Apr 2013 19:40:02 -0400
"am thrashing on Jeep again... vehicle is mostly rust free..."
"I'm starting to think that $250 for a shiny new skid plate, while a lot of money, might not be exorbitant considering the PITA that this exercise is turning out to be..."

Attaboy. Whip out your old standby, the old extraordinary circumstance; you're a helpless victim to the inadequacies of every vehicle that is not identical to yours... despite its inadequacies:
"I've started ripping the old rear bumper and gas tank skid plate off so as to install a new rear bumper that isn't made from poop and fail..."

Fascinating. For some odd reason that paragraph doesn't address the folly of restoring an underbody wear item...

That makes a lot of sense, Barn. You last lived in Falls Church VA, and purport to still be accustomed to a store that has been out of business for several years.

Whadaya know, there's your anecdotal evidence things change:
Newsgroups: alt.home.repair Subject: Re: OT: Red Light Camera Ticket Date: Tue, 01 Nov 2011 21:28:17 -0400
"Does the truth really change over time?" http://groups.google.com/group/alt.home.repair/msg/e0c6c617d0f0873c?hl=en &dmode=source

Duh.

What business doesn't receive some goods in boxes that would serve as a container... or doesn't have/is near a garbage receptacle with a couple discarded fast food sacks...?
For a genius you sure don't seem to have much in the way of realistic imagination. I guess you keep it busy imagining why nothing is ever your fault. -----
- gpsman
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 04/04/2013 08:57 AM, gpsman wrote:

Says it all, the idiot considers a SKID PLATE - an item that is basically steel plates formed and welded together - a "wear item."
Brakes are "wear items." Bearings are "wear items." U-joints are "wear items." A SKID PLATE??? Is... NOT a wear item.
What the fuck color is the sky in your world?
nate
--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

It's an American car. The whole car is a wear item. Has the "Replace car soon" light come on the dashboard yet? --scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 04/04/2013 02:58 PM, Scott Dorsey wrote:

Balls! You know that I'm definitely not an American car partisan, but I have to agree with Robert Cumberford and state that somehow AMC/Renault screwed up and actually managed to create a future classic (or is it one already?) with this one. The original engine options were fairly uninspiring (especially the GM 2.8 V-6) but once they introduced the 4.0 it was a pretty nice ride, with lots of potential for even more improvement if you were so inclined (and lots of people seem to have been.)
nate
--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
[snip]

It is on my A4. It sits about 4" off the ground and I hear it scrubbing on snow piles regularly :-[. But not on a jeep, I guess unless you find some deep shit to rub the plates against which is a challenge in kaulifornia and I guess in a lot of other lower states.
So it all depends on the typical usecases the car is put through and the amount of snow control chemicals present in the region the car is swimming through during winter.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Nate Nagel wrote:

Naval Jelly?
Naval Jelly converts Iron Oxide (the reddish-brown stuff) to Ferric Phosphate (black). After conversion, the ferric oxide coating can be scrubbed off leaving the bare metal.
LOCTITE (and others) makes it. Look for it in the paint department (except at Home Depot).
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Site Timeline

Related Threads

    HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.