On Tue, 25 Jun 2013 05:32:56 -0500, The Daring Dufas wrote:
I'm not sure what chewed it up.
The whole thing predates me. I've been using it to create compost
from kitchen scraps, until my wife got the bright idea of actually
using the resulting mulch to grow tomatoes.
The funny thing was, no water came out of the thing (it only dripped
a bit at the early connections) so I had figured it wasn't working.
How wrong I was!
I had not realized this.
No wonder they had been buried.
Thanks for that tidbit.
I have others popping out of the ground scattered about
the yard that I was wondering what they do.
I'll snap a picture in the morning for you.
Well, this was the theory, but, about 30 feet from the valve box,
I ran into a chewed up poly that had no counterpart nearby.
So, I'm pretty sure it's there ... but I have to go mining to find it.
I feel like an archaeologist lately.
On Tuesday, June 25, 2013 1:55:00 AM UTC-5, Danny D. wrote:
ww5.picturepush.com/photo/a/13403753/img/13403753.jpg So I figured I'd repl
ace it with something better. But what? One end is merely bent over and nai
led to these boards: http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/13403755/img/13403
755.jpg And, the other end has this cryptic glued? connection: http://www1.
picturepush.com/photo/a/13403754/img/13403754.jpg I've never worked on drip
irrigation before, so I picked up all sorts of 3/4" connections at the box
ome Depot, the guy told me that it's normal for the drip lines to simply pu
sh in, but this end seems to be really really stuck. Another elbow nearby h
as a NPT-to-Hose fitting on the end: http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/13
403769/img/13403769.jpg Would you suggest I simply cut the elbow off and st
art fresh by putting a garden-hose connection on a T fitting? Note: The pla
nts are tomatoes, which are just now sprouting, so it has to be a gentle ir
rigation. I think a soaker hose may be too heavy - but I'm not sure what my
If your tomato plants are just now sprouting, you have a bigger problem tha
n water, it's timing. Unless you live in the Florida Everglade tomato grow
ing area, tomatoes by now should be in full blossom, not just sprouting. Y
ou might also go to the Google groups "rec.gardening" web site,
On Tue, 25 Jun 2013 11:24:28 -0700, email@example.com wrote:
you have a bigger problem than water, it's timing.
Here's a picture of the little buggers the wife planted in the
Silicon Valley, oh, about a week or so ago (from store-bought seeds):
We've never done plants before - so - this is a new (and tiny)
garden of about 10 feet long by about 4 feet wide:
She's hand watering for now - but I figured I'd get the sprinkler
system to work for her as a bonus...
But I'm not sure what's the *appropriate* sprinkler mechanism:
a. A sprinkler pop-up head?
b. A ladder of drip irrigation hoses?
c. A soaker hose?
I use that same 1/2 & 1/4 tubing drip irrigation for my garden and flower
beds. Maybe I'm just too simple at it, but if something gets tore up, I
just cut that part of the tubing out, and insert a new piece of tubing using
the right connectors.
I have a lot of my garden in big planters and even some hanging planters,
and all of them have 1/4 inch dripper lines going to each planter that has
an adjustable sprinkler head. It's all connected to a timer and everything
gets watered automatically.
Every spring when I turn on the watering system again, I go through to see
what needs to be replaced, and what is still working well. I guess after
setting this up originally, I'm just so used to repairing something that
wears out I just do it automatically.
One thing about that tubing is that it tends to wear out at the point that
you have a dripper or plug, so I've figured out that I just have to cut off
about a 1/2 inch where it was connected by worn out and re-attach the
btw, that turbing looks like it was damaged by a shovel. I'd probably just
cut out the damaged section and connect the 2 pcs with a straight pronged
connector if doing that wouldn't make it so the sprinkler on the other end
Good luck on your new set-up!
Thank you very much for that drawing as I see that whomever it was who
originally set up the tubing actually made what appears to be a crude
version of a "poor man's figure 8" endloop using electrical tape:
Ah, that's a good idea (I already have the raw materials for that!).
As for a more permanent fix, what do you think about me putting
one of these 3/4" slip-to-MHT (male hose thread?) fittings directly
onto the white-and-green part sticking out of the existing PVC elbow?
That seems to be a looser fit than a normal PVC pipe dry fit; but
with lots of "glue", I think it might work.
Is it possible to pry out that green endcap & just place the slip
fitting over the remaining white part? (Or do I need to cut off
the entire elbow and start again with the slip:slip coupling)?
On Tue, 25 Jun 2013 23:36:46 +0000, Danny D. wrote:
I took one of the simplest routes possible; just to see if it
I glued a slip-to-MHT (male hose thread) directly onto the tubing
friction fitting, using lots of the PVC solvent (since it was a
loose fit, probably because God never intended me to glue a fitting
on the outside of the tubing friction fitting):
Mostly I did it this way because, if the tubing press fitting isn't
actually made of PVC, and if it therefore fails, I'll just cut it all
off and, by doing so, only lose one fitting in the test.
Interestingly, using normal PVC primer & glue, it *seems* to be
Note: Substitute "img" for "640" for larger photos.
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