Hello:
Have a pretty old wooden chair where the dowel like supports (that go between the legs) that help hold the legs together have come out of their holes in the legs.
Very confused over what adhesive I should use when I push them back into the holes.
Would you suggest an epoxy ?
Or, a "Hide Glue", or one of the Elmer's products, or... ? Why ?
Thanks, Bob
Two part epoxy. It will take longer to set, so you might have to put some kind of clamps or something to make it stay while it's setting up. Put some paste wax on the areas you don't want the epoxy to stick to. It makes for easy cleanup after it hardens.
I have seen a special material for just that use. As I understand it, it works by swelling the wood to lock it in place and can be used when you have a loose joint before it comes apart. You don't need to take it apart. All I know is I used some on a set of chairs in my kitchen about 12 years ago (about half of the chairs needed the fix) and they are all still solid today.
I understand that you should only use the "proper" glue in this case as other glues will not work nearly as well. Also sanding the surfaces means a looser fit and the joint demands close tight fits.
I've switched to Gorrilla Glue for that application and I'm sold on it.
Just remember to keep wiping off any of it which bubbles out of the joint while it is still soft.
It's pretty near clear when it cures, but an anal inspector could still notice a fillet of glue if you don't wipe the excess off.
Jeff (Already anticipating clever remarks about "anal inspection".)
Take piece off. *lightly* sand the surfaces. Add Gorilla Wood Glue or Titebond or whatever other wood glue you have available. Clamp in place with significant pressure for 1-2 hours, remove clamps or not, then let sit overnight. After clamping a bit of glue should ooze out the side to indicate you used enough glue. Wipe off excess with sopping wet rag.
The clamping pressure is important, though Im not sure how this will work since its a re-glue and the wood at the glue point may not accept the glue as new wood would.
This is what I have read and understand from the rec.woodworking newsgroup. Perhaps you should ask there for better answer.
They're called 'stretchers'. IMO it would be wise to scrape off as much of the old glue as you can - both in the hole and on the stretcher.
"I've switched to Gorilla Glue for that application and I'm sold on it.
I too tried several different wood glues and two part epoxy finally using Gorilla Glue which has held up so far.
Walt Conner
Don't mess with the epoxy - Its not necessary in this case. Hide glue is not needed either, nor is the special chair doctor stuff that supposedly swells the wood.
If the pieces fit snugly, no not have failed glue on them then just use some carpenters wood glue. The best brand is titebond but any yellow wood glue will be fine. If these are truly valuable antiques or something then I would enlist a conservator to make the repair.
I might add that wood "comes and goes" with changes in humidity especially in the winter in homes with forced air heat and no humidity control. Wood glues and epoxy dry hard with no give while Gorilla Glue is tough, strong but does remain somewhat pliable thus not pulling away with swrinkage, my opinoin anyway.
Walt Conner
Gorilla Glue makes several wood glues. The properties depend on which one you buy. Wood glue is actually good for glueing wood.
From what i read you would use Hide glue on something that you would want to be able to disassemble as some future point. Doubt if u want that.
Actually tightbond makes many wood glues, not gorilla glue.
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