Hi. I am wanting to get into welding, and I have a question for those
who may know. What kind of welder would be used to make a vent like
this http://oldworlddistributors.com/pix_louvered_dryer_vent.html .
A 100W soldering iron with a very large tip. These are also used to melt
lead caning for stained glass windows. You could also probably do it with a
lot of other smaller irons but that is a big chunk of copper to get hot in a
small area. It may be called a "Hobby soldering iron" as opposed to one for
The flux depends somewhat on the solder. Rolls of solder for electrical
come with flux inside but lead free solder for plumbing has its own paste
flux on the same shelf at the store. In general you can always use resin
flux (RMA) but it is alcohol based and harder to clean up. There is also
water based fluxes that are easy to clean and will discolor the copper less
Copper is soft enough to bend over the edge of a counter but for really
clean creases and sharp angles, you will also need a sheetmetal brake. Much
can be done to flatten out mistakes with the right shaped hammers as well
(broad flat face and/or a ball peen hammer).
Now if you wanted to make that out of steel you would do best with a spot
welder since an arc welder would punch through thin sheet metal. An expert
might be able to pull it off with a MIG.
Uh, no. A soldering iron isn't hot enough to melt lead. You use ordinary
solder to join lead just as you do with copper.
These irons are usually for stained glass work. There are plumber's
irons, usually around 300W. Which you'll need will depend on the
copper sheet thickness and piece size.
There are also "soldering iron" attachments for standard propane torches.
If you buy a propane torch kit, it'll probably include one.
If you use a soldering iron (or a soldering iron attachment on a torch),
discoloring the copper sheet will be pretty minimal.
Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est
It\'s not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.
On 2 Nov 2005 13:41:33 -0800, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
How would you weld it without ruining the copper?
The irons for this are quite big. Nothing they sell at Radio Shack or
Remove NOPSAM to email me. Please let
me know if you have posted also.
It's also been scotch brited as you can see in the side view at the bottom
where the pivot comes through the scotch brite couldn't get to the area
above and below the pivot revealing that work was done to clean this up
after soldering. Were I work they have a brite dip that they use to remove
the flux residue and any oxidation that took place during the heating then
the brite dip is rinsed off with water.
If I were doing that, if I wanted a good color match on the joints
I'd probably use self-fluxing copper brazing rod and a small
acetylene torch for good heat control. If the color match on the
joints wasn't important, plain old 60/40 solder and acid flux.
If you're doing thin copper with an oxy-acetylene torch you need to
be careful not to overheat it, but it's a lot faster than doing it
with an electric iron.
email@example.com is Joshua Putnam
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