Any metal can be welded. But the thin steel on a mower deck will
require a wire feed welder. A stick welder will burn thru. Before
you weld it, or take it to a pro welder, clean all the dry grass off
the bottom or it will start burning, and if you're paying a pro $60
(or more) and hour, you dont want to be paying $20 to $40 for him to
clean off the grass before he can weld it.
I had a deck crack and one wheel was really bent outward. I tried to
weld it with my stick welder and after learning that the dry grass
would start on fire, and having to clean it off first, I tried to weld
it, but I burned thru the metal. I took it to a welding shop and $25
and 10 minutes later he had it all patched up. It worked another 2
years till the engine died.
That's fine for plumbers but you need both tanks to weld. I still
have a small set. I'm only passable at all welding but I found that
for general purposes a tank set is more useful. I can braze, I can
cut, I can weld, I can heat things up. Other solutions only do some
of those things.
Mine cracked around one of the anchor points - it does seem to be a bit
of a weak spot, particularly as the decks age and rust takes its toll.
Rather than try to weld it (I was worried about it burning through, too)
I bolted some 1/8" plate over the crack top and bottom to spread the load
across a wider area. It's been like that for a couple of years now and
hasn't broken yet.
Chuckle. I once had an 83 Mustang, and the floor under driver's seat
developed fatigue cracks at the angled parts of the stamping. You could
feel it flex as you sat down, or went around corners. I didn't feel like
stripping entire interior, and couldn't afford to pay a pro welder
anyway. I repaired it by gusseting it on top side with some 1-foot
square plates of 12-ga galvanized flashing I was able to liberate and
blacksmith into the needed shapes, with a layer of tar underneath, held
together with a whole bunch of peened-nut fender-washered (underneath)
grade-8 bolts from Tractor Supply. The patch probably weighed 30 pounds,
but it held as long as I owned that POS car. You could barely feel the
lumps from the bolts through the carpet. Up on a lift, it looked like
Reminds me of First Car, a 76 Buick Skyhawk, bought in the late-80s.
It became hard to shift because the firewall where the clutch cable
passed through had fatigued and cracked into a star pattern. Pushing
the clutch pedal down pulled the clutch cable sheath through the
firewall, sort of--it was still attached to one of the "spokes", which
resulted in a creak. A scrap piece of sheet metal bolted over the hole
held the clutch cable in place for the rest of the car's life--which
Just a couple years later, I took it to a shop to track down some
creaking and alignment problems. The guy took me down into the pit to
show me how the body was ripping apart where the front suspension
attached to it. He said it really wasn't safe to drive.
When GM imploded I was thinking that probably everyone still alive who
had anything to do with producing that POS was collecing a nice plump GM
Or MIG with a 1/8" flat bar backing plate works for me. Drill a hole at the
end of the crack to stop the crack, and put a HOT spot weld there. "Stitch"
weld the rest, using short tacks or short (1/4") welds.
Steve (Retired certified welder)
The reason it broke is because the metal rusted and/or wore away.
You can weld it but you're just sticking the fatigued material back
together, and not doing a thing about the fatigue. Odds are good it
will break again in a short time.
Not only do you need to weld, you also need to add a patch to
reinforce the worn area.
On Wed, 15 Jun 2011 13:37:26 -0700 (PDT), email@example.com
make sure it cools slowly after the welding, it can be annealed and
the built-up stress relieved, Not saying it won't crack again a few
inches away. If not badly rusted I've had good luck drilling the end
of the crack and brazing it up.
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