Weird stuff -- update -- (was Electronic Kenmore refrigerator not working, what does this sign mean)

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Oddly enough, after waiting for a while, it started fine and is cooling down at an acceptable rate.
i

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Get a refrigerator thermometer (kitchen stuff department of stores), then keep an eye on the temperature.
If there was a lot of water which came out from having it off while you fixed it, and this happens again in a month or so, suspect the defrost/heater/timer.
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Ignoramus28169 wrote:

As someone else said it won't start if it is under a load. It has to rest before being plugged in again.
We have a little device that looks like a cheap surge protector that will not turn on unless it has been off for four minutes.
Geoff.
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On Thu, 02 Sep 2010 20:12:37 -0500, Ignoramus28169

Not odd, high head pressure was doing it. Considered normal in most applications.
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On Thu, 02 Sep 2010 19:03:20 -0500, Ignoramus28169 wrote:

Call Sears repair.
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On 9/2/2010 8:03 PM, Ignoramus28169 wrote:

Hi, Good to hear the overload relay worked for you, (I read your later post where everything seems to be working ok)
As I didn't trust the freezer after my repair I purchased one of these
http://cgi.ebay.com/TA20-CDN-Freezer-Alarm-Alert-Digital-Thermometer-5yrW-/300378854590?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item45eff994be
Its pretty neat and although I never had a problem afterwards, its good to see the freezer temps.
JC
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On Thu, 02 Sep 2010 19:03:20 -0500, Ignoramus28169

hell, my fridge has done that for years... (Really, it has).
The reason is 'high head pressure' and you have to let it sit for as much as 20 to 30 minutes (typically, but can be longer) between startup cycles.
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On Fri, 03 Sep 2010 08:45:03 -0400, PeterD wrote:

Shouldn't take 20 minutes for the head pressure to bleed off enough for a restart. Unless of course there is a partial restriction in the high side. If the system has moisture in the freon the end of the cap tube can ice up causing a restriction. Or some contaminates could plug the cap tube partially. Normally the head pressure should reduce sufficiently to allow a proper working compressor to restart in 5 minutes or less.
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wrote:

No it souldn't except when the unit has been moved and possibly oil is in the 'wrong' places and must drain back. THen it can take 20 minutes. But to expect a person to determine this condition is not realistic, so I recommend 20 minutes.
(Even your estimate of 5 minutes is usually much more than is needed, I've seen them bleed down in under two minutes.)
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Vapor lock. Likely a little light on freon and the pump shutting off gets a high head pressure and can't push up to clear it.
Likely in the off position, it will leak pass a gasket and it will start.
That is my suspect. Might be that way only when hot. e.g. just running.
Might work in the shop all winter if cold out there - lightly running and cold coils. Warm house shuts it down.
That is what I figure.
Martin
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On 9/2/2010 7:03 PM, Ignoramus28169 wrote:

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