-- Actually I have a can right here. It's not "highly" flammable.
-- It's EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE (all in caps)
-- As if it wasn't flammable enough, the propellent is propane.
My can of WD-40 says "Combustible' on the front and Do not use near
heat, fire or flames on the back. Of course, my can doesn't contain
any propellent either. So I'm guessing your EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE is due
to the propellent.
Save yourself some money - Buy WD-40 in the gallon can (about $12):
and buy a couple of these spray bottles ($3.29):
Or any spray bottle that can be used with petroleum products. I have
three of the ones pictured above and I just refill them as needed.
$20 spent on bulk WD-40 and a couple spray bottles will last you a lot
longer than $20 spent on WD-40 in the standard spray cans.
The warning label on Ph increaser for swimming pools has all kinds of
labels on it. "Do not ingest", "If swallowed, call poison control",
etc. etc. etc.
It is baking soda.
Warning are some lawyer trying to get out of the next lawsuit. Yes
you should be careful, but WD-40 isn't too bad unless you're a 12-year-
old with a cigarette lighter.
Yes you can....And it won't do any harm...
Whether it will do any good is the question...
Prepare yourself for having to replace all the sockets, that may be
easier than trying to get rid of the corrosion they may have suffered.
they're not all that expensive, and when you install the new bulbs go to
an auto supply store and get a tube of "dielectric grease" to smear
liberally on the bulb bases to avoid their bases getting corroded into
Think about it. What use is perfuemed pressurized keroscene? I won't
stay in place, it will drip out. It provides zeopotetion aganist
corrosion and will have at best an ephemeral effetc on the
threads in terms of getting a new bulbinstalled.
Go to an auto parts supply store and getconductive bulb grease or
spark plug boot grease.
Lube the bulb threads well with that beore inserting new bulb.
If you have corrosion on the socket threads, TURN OFF THE POWER.
Thoroughly sand the socket threads and the center "button" at the
base of the socket with 180- 200 grit paper.
Think about replacing the socket if its really badly corroded, and use
the conductive bulb or spark plug boot grease on bulbs in the new
And always use the big "rubber" / neprene / whatever washer with the
bulbs. Its not perfect but it does hepl reduce the moisture that
gets into the sockets.
On Fri, 15 Jun 2007 12:16:25 -0700, jJim McLaughlin
Actually, Jim, he's closer to correct than you are, and his question
is a smart one. The grease in question is in fact, dielectric grease,
which means it is NON-conductive. It's an electrical insulator. When
you use it in a lamp socket, the metal still makes contact where it
displaces the grease, and the grease surrounds that contact point with
an insulating and moisture resitant seal.
Well, I stuck up for ya' in another response, but if that is what you
meant, you're under a (fairly common) misconception. "Boot" or "bulb"
grease(s) are actually dielectric (silicone, usually) greases, _not_
conductive. As kool wondered, if they were actually conducting in a
bulb socket, for example, they would provide a path from hot to neutral,
an undesirable "feature" when power is switched on.
The grease doesn't conduct, the connection relies on mechanical contact
through the grease for the conduction path. See the product description
I posted for the Permatex product in the other response.
Yes, he did mean that. "Dielectric" grease is the trick...
It works by filling air space and contact is still metal to metal for
the conduction path...
From the product description for a Permatex product--others are similar...
Permatex Dielectric Tune-Up Grease is a silicone dielectric compound
used to insulate, lubricate and protect electrical fittings. It protects
against salt, dirt, moisture intrusion and stray current in electrical
Dielectric grease extends bulb and housing life of navigation lights,
masthead electrical connections, trailer lighting and harness or any
electric connections exposed to moisture and the elements. Prevents
voltage leakage around any electrical connector thereby insuring a
strong spark in high energy engine ignition systems.
I've never encountered any truly conductive greases yet, though no doubt
they can be made.
I just stuck one ohmmeter probe down into the contents of my can of
Thomas & Betts "Koper-Shield" and touched the other probe to the metal
can. There was no discernable conductivity, even though the grease has a
distinctly copper color.
I think those kinds of "conductive greases" are loaded with finely
divided metal particles which become "conductors" when they are
compressed between two metal parts and the non conducting grease squirts
I've used Koper-Shield on bayonet base automobile lamp bulbs for years
without any undue effects, but I've never applied it to a line voltage
bulb's base, nor do I think I'd try it. <G>
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